Urban Out Sitters official statement:


You may have felt slightly confused, as I feel somewhat slighted on the fact that much of the facts were omitted from the recent Urban Out Sitters stolen van news reports. The entire staff and I wish to write a summation, a testimony and statement of truth to all Urban Out Sitters clientele and inform the media in hopes that they will rectify, correct and justify the situation they manipulated from last few days broadcast.


First and foremost, no one at Urban Out Sitters lied to the media, nor intentionally twisted turn-of-events. More importantly everyone at UOS spent sleepless nights worrying and searching for the lost pups and was extremely cooperative and compassionate toward the welfare of the dogs.


This past Wednesday evening, I received a call from one of my dog walkers at Urban Out Sitters. At approximately 4pm, one of our vans had been stolen and the driver was talking to police. I asked to speak to the driver. He told me the van had been stolen, he had a gun pointed at him and “the guys” took off with the van. I asked which way the van was headed and he told they were headed west on Grand Ave. When I arrived on the scene, I asked the driver if he was okay, he said yes, (a little shaken up), but OK.


I started to call the customers involved. I informed them that the car had been stolen at gunpoint and two people fled with the dogs in the car. I asked them to come to Urban Out Sitters so we could talk and figure out how to locate the dogs. All of my clients showed up, along with the media. (a lot of media). A client had tweeted to NBC and several other media outlets that “Dogs missing after armed carjackers take doggie day care's van - FOX 32 News Chicago.” Moments after the tweet, the press started to arrive at Urban Out Sitters. I spoke to the jam packed lobby at River West, Urban Out Sitters. I went on camera to say what had happened. I explained that I had a conversation with my driver and that he was held at gunpoint and ordered to exit the car. After I finished with the press, I headed out along with many other staff to search for the missing vehicle. After a sleepless night of combing the streets, The next morning, a detective working the case asked if we had any video footage. He wanted to see if the assailants had been watching the store. I pulled up video footage from our cameras DVR system.


In the video footage, the two assailants approached the vehicle. The vehicle was not running, you clearly see the van being started in the FULL VIDEO not being shared with the public. The driver had two keys one was in the van ashtray, the other with him on his key ring. In the footage, you can see the van’s exhaust spurt out by the engine being turned over. The van was located directly near the front door of the facility (with the driver only steps away in the lobby) by the time he could get to the vehicle, the two men already started the car, reversed the van, and sped away. At this point, the driver and a UOS dog walker immediately jumped into action, got in their car and bike to follow the carjacked vehicle, this is also something that the media has not shared with the public. The driver (AKA "witness") and walker chased after the van and the driver confronted the two thieves at one of the intersecting streets near Milwaukee, Chicago and Ogden area. At this point the driver (AKA "witness") cornered them. At the vehicle one of the thieves in the van pointed a gun at the driver (AKA "witness") and told him to get away from the vehicle. I was shocked and appreciative how he put his life in a dangerous situation by chasing and confronting the assailants. UOS is working diligently with investigators, to get camera footage from the blue light cameras and bank nearby showcasing the secondary confrontation. Urban Out Sitters is also organizing a search for the two assailants by offering a reward to anyone who may know who they are.


Some serious things not fully presented:

- the van was not running.

- the "witness" in the police report that "intervened" is an Urban Out Sitters employee

- the car was stolen

- the video footage was provided by Urban Out Sitters and given to Chicago Police

- the footage was shortened and you don't see the driver pursuing the assailants


Urban Out Sitters would not have knowingly released video had it contradicted our statement. We shared what we knew when we knew it and will continue to do so.


Overall, this was a horrible situation we wouldn’t wish on anyone, it has been an emotional tragedy, it was not a careless regard, or negligence. Fortunately the dogs and driver are ok. We are sorry if you feel that you have been mislead. I had not received the full story, just that “The van was stolen, they pointed a gun at me and took off with the van” That is the information I shared with the press. I was later told this information was incorrect when I spoke to a detective and we viewed the video, who informed me that the story from my driver was reported correctly and that I didn’t have the full scope of the incident.


If anything, you are getting the correct story, and above all know UOS did not take this issue lightly. With over fifteen years of success, caring and loving every clients pets as like our own. Above all – we strive to build trust and safety.


The outpour of support from the entire Urban Out Sitters clientele has been phenomenal. UOS is extremely grateful for their generosity, love and understanding over the past few days. The overall community outreach, support and the effects this has caused actually instilled positive changes that will be beneficial toward the pets who share our great city.


In addition, Urban Out Sitters would like to share its newest elevated levels of security. We have purchased and are installing GPS Tracking Systems into our cars and 2-way cameras into all pet taxis. We also got calls and support from other local pet care services. They have told us they too will be installing GPS tracking devices within their vehicles.


Also, last year, UOS has been developing and branding a newer GPS technology to help, monitor, and be centralized within Urban Out Sitters client database. Each GPS tracking will be a pet tag that all dogs will be required to wear to ensure that if a dog is lost, or stolen, it can be quickly recovered. In the event a client’s dog is lost, the client will be able to log into their online account, or thru Urban Out Sitters app to locate their loved one immediately. Urban Out Sitters has been working on this over the past 6 months and anticipate it will be ready by Spring.


Should you have any further questions, or wish more detail surrounding the event, feel free to contact me directly.


Sincerely-

Joseph Giannini and Company






Watch Kayla on Channel 7 - Urban Out Sitters Love The Dogs Like Family

http://abc7chicago.com/526332/

Some posts from customers that have come forward:

Dear Joseph and Staff:

Thanks for taking the time to write that letter to your two-legged customers. However, I never doubted for a minute that you all were doing a great job with your four-legged customers. Noki always is happy to go with the van driver and always comes back home in fine spirits and shape.




Thanks for all you do year round to keep our pets happy and healthy!







Thank you for the message. I’ve been thinking of you and your team. It was a horrible situation and everyone did what they could. I will continue to refer my friends with dogs to Urban Out Sitters. I am an HR Director so I can tell you there are people who will be supportive, people who will be fine and a few squeaky wheels who yell the loudest. Sleep well at night knowing you did everything you could for the dogs and their families. It was a ‘freak’ situation.






I just want to say none of the incident with the van being stolen was your fault. I appreciate your service and you do a greAt job of taking care of and keeping our pets safe.

So sorry to hear what happened - everything Joseph has been quoted in sounds extremely professional & we're glad the people & pups are safe. Happy weekend...

Pampering pups at Palmer House’s Doggie Tea Party - PhotoGallery - Chicago Sun-Times

Pampering pups at Palmer House’s Doggie Tea Party - PhotoGallery - Chicago Sun-Times

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Is your dog itching to tell you something?

Itching and scratching is a pretty normal thing for a pet to do, but if your pet has a consistent itch they may be suffering from an allergic skin condition.

Research has confirmed that the food/diet your dog eats can have a major bearing on their skin.

Skin allergies are extremely common with up to 40 per cent of all pets having problems associated with the skin.

According to Dr Didier-Noël Carlotti, a leading animal dermatologist, minimising the effects of an allergic reaction, irrespective of the allergen, is the most important first step to quickly alleviate the animal's symptoms and discomfort.

"Antioxidants and omega-3s are useful - along with specific therapy, such as flea-control and allergen specific immunotherapy - for combating the dermal effects of flea bite hypersensitivity and environmental allergens respectively; while food sensitivity is best tackled with a food source to which the animal has not been previously exposed," said Dr Carlotti.

This means it's important when choosing a diet, it should encompasses all of these elements (antioxidants, omega-3s) regardless of what the skin condition of your dog may be.

Additionally, high levels of omega-6 fatty acids are important in maintaining a glossy coat in pets. A diet filled with antioxidants can also protect all body cells against the damaging effects of free radicals (especially the skin), as well as environmental pollution and ultraviolet radiation.

Visit www.urbanoutsitters.com for more information or contact Joseph Giannini at Urban Out Sitters.

Improve Your Understanding of Your Dog by Getting to Understand How They Hear

A dog's keen sensitivity to low-volume sound is often troublesome. They can hear a faint sound at 75 feet, while most humans could only detect it at 17 feet. This indicates that a dog must learn to ignore myriad sounds that do not affect him, and accommodate to a veritable avalanche of sounds in a family household, such as television, radio, stereos, etc.

When it comes to our relationship with our dogs, this IS a big deal!

Think about it, the dog does not hear like you and I. He has an acute ability to hear certain things far better than us and other times, he'll literally tune out.

When this sensitivity is translated to phobic behaviour relative to, say, thunderstorms, it indicates that dogs may hear the thunder of an approaching storm over 50 miles away, while the sky is still clear. If a dog has a history of becoming upset by thunder or other explosive sounds, he may become increasingly anxious as the storm nears, salivating, pacing, hiding, seeking comfort if the owner is home, or escaping.

This sensitivity may also cast some doubt on some of the commercially marketed "desensitising" techniques, such as playing recordings of thunder at low levels. Audio speakers are not designed to produce volumes softer than humans can perceive - in other words, if we hear them the way they're meant to sound, then they sound VERY different to the dog because his hearing is not 'wired up' the same as our own.

In the case of storms, they are generally preceded by elements to which dogs and some other mammals appear to be sensitive. Merely producing low-volume thunder claps may not fulfill the total stimulus complex required to achieve desensitisation. This is important to remember if we're dealing with a noise sensitive dog - it really isn't as simple as sticking on a CD and hoping they 'get used to it'. The CD sounds very, very different.

An important auditory/learning tendency in dogs is to quickly develop a motor movement response to a sound stimulus when the sound is accompanied by a visual signal. In other words, dogs tend to move their head, ears, eyes or other body part in response to sound accompanied by movement.

So it's important to remember that a dog will very quickly lock on to carrying out a certain behaviour in response to a particular sound - whether we've inadvertently trained this behaviour ourselves or not, the dog will respond based on what HE's learned.

A fun game to play is to create a number of different sounds and see which ones cause the most positive reaction in the dog - it gives an owner an excellent insight in to which sounds the dog reacts well to and this is something that can be very well utilised when we're teaching our dogs new things.

Finally, just to reiterate, the way to treat noise phobic dogs is to get a better understanding of the fact that it often isn't just noise that they're actually upset about, it can be a whole number of atmospheric incidents that us mere humans haven't even spotted. Many dog owners treat such problems with pheromone products and by using distraction techniques to occupy a dog on something fun and positive during a storm or other stressfully noisy event.

The Proper Way To Clean Up Dog Accidents

The first thing to do when there's a canine mishap is to clean it up as best possible. With urine, blot up as much of the liquid as you can with paper towels. With poop, pick it up gently without further rubbing it into the floor. Do not grab your household carpet cleaner; it won't work on this kind of stain.


Regular household detergents and cleaners don't particularly help with cleaning up after accidents because the scent tends to remains which encourages the puppy or even other dogs to reuse the same area over and over again.

There are a few spray cleaners available specifically for pet cleanup that contain smell and stain removers. They are excellent for small accidents. There are also products that contain enzymes that naturally break down the chemicals in the waste and eradicates any odors.

These products are effective, though it's important not to use other cleaners before the enzyme product. Use these products thoroughly because dog noses are many times more sensitive than our own.

Cleaning accidents properly with an enzyme product solution will dramatically reduce the time it takes to house train your dog because he won't be drawn back to the same areas. Enzyme solutions "digest" the organic material in the carpet or wood to eliminate the smell.

If you do not use an enzyme product, your dog will likely be drawn back to use the same spot again. Sometimes you may want to try using a black light because you can use it to see soiled areas that you can't see with the naked eye.

Dog ID: Which is the Right Choice for YOUR Dog?

Dog ID: Which is the Right Choice for YOUR Dog?

Identification for your dog could easily be compared to insurance - you are glad you have it but you hope you never have to use it!

However, if you do, you'll feel safe and secure knowing that it's there. When it comes to your dog, and especially small puppies, you never know when they might accidentally slip out the back door and having proper identification can mean the difference between getting your lovable pet back into your arms, or losing her forever!


What Is The Best Type Of Identification For My Dog?

There are several types of identification that can be used to help identify your dog if he or she was ever to become lost. To give you a clear idea of each type so that you can make an informed decision on how to secure your dog, here is the list:

1. Basic Tags and Collars: This type of identification is fairly inexpensive and can be taken care of quickly. You can order metal or plastic tags that have your address and phone number imprinted on them. The tag will then be attached to the dog's collar. This form of identification is also easy to spot and anybody who sees a dog running loose can simply look down and check to see what family he belongs to.

Unfortunately, these tags can also be easily removed or torn off. If your dog or puppy loses this identification then there is very little chance of getting him back. Their are also thieves out there who will be more than happy to see a puppy roaming around by himself and remove its collar in order to take it home.

2. Microchips: Microchips for dogs and other house pets have been around for quite some time. Originally, every microchip that was functioning in the United States were set on a frequency signal of 125kHz. Now microchips are functioning with a 134.2kHz in order to conform to internationally used microchip systems.

Microchip identification is surgically implanted into your dog underneath the skin and generally in between the shoulder blades. The size is no bigger than a grain of rice and this small chip contains the owner's contact information that is uploaded to a national database. It takes a special scanner to read the number on each microchip. These scanners are usually available at many veterinarian facilities and animal shelters.


3. Tattoo Identification: Identification by tattoo is a third option that can be done quite easy and is typically inexpensive. Most of the time these tattoos will list your phone number and the puppy's name. The ears or stomach area is typically the location that a tattoo will be imprinted. The only cons are that tattoos can fade in time and even altered.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Urban Out Sitters

A comprehensive pet care facility, Urban Out Sitters provides Chicago-area pet owners with cat care, dog walking, boarding, and day care services out of two main locations within the city. As part of its day care services, Urban Out Sitters provides a way for active dogs to use their natural energy, instincts, behavior, and desire to play with other dogs. Dogs at Urban Out Sitters play together in a cage-free environment within groups that range in size and include puppies, small dogs, and large dogs. The staff at Urban Out Sitters places each dog in the appropriate group to maximize socialization and enjoyment. The facilities offer breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks; outside play time; a web cam for owners to check in; and departure baths whenever desired.

For longer stays, Urban Out Sitters was rated one of the top pet hotels by Chicago Magazine's “Best Of” series. Urban Out Sitters’ boarding location is personally staffed 24 hours each day and includes cage-free playgroups, outside play, and webcam access. Urban Out Sitters also offers a pet taxi transportation service, which can be used for pick-up or drop-off to help owners get their pets to the facility conveniently.

In addition to its wide variety of dog services, Urban Out Sitters maintains an in-home cat sitting service. Urban Out Sitters' catsitters visit clients' pets each day, refilling food, offering fresh water, cleaning the litter box, and bringing in clients' mail. Sitters are prepared to accommodate special food and medication needs for cats, and the staff member will call the client after each visit to allow owners to check in on their pets while they are away. Offering in-home sitting reduces the stress on cats associated with travel.

Urban Out Sitters was founded in 1999 by Joseph Giannini, an Animal Advocate with the Chicago Police Department and The Dog Advisory Work Group, which protects pets from abusive owners. Mr. Giannini holds CPR and Pet First Aid certifications from the American Red Cross and is also trained as a Professional Groomer through The Academy of Dog Grooming Arts.




At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

What Is The Best Type Of Identification For My Dog?

Dog ID: Which is the Right Choice for YOUR Dog?

Identification for your dog could easily be compared to insurance - you are glad you have it but you hope you never have to use it!

However, if you do, you'll feel safe and secure knowing that it's there. When it comes to your dog, and especially small puppies, you never know when they might accidentally slip out the back door and having proper identification can mean the difference between getting your lovable pet back into your arms, or losing her forever!


What Is The Best Type Of Identification For My Dog?

There are several types of identification that can be used to help identify your dog if he or she was ever to become lost. To give you a clear idea of each type so that you can make an informed decision on how to secure your dog, here is the list:

1. Basic Tags and Collars: This type of identification is fairly inexpensive and can be taken care of quickly. You can order metal or plastic tags that have your address and phone number imprinted on them. The tag will then be attached to the dog's collar. This form of identification is also easy to spot and anybody who sees a dog running loose can simply look down and check to see what family he belongs to.

Unfortunately, these tags can also be easily removed or torn off. If your dog or puppy loses this identification then there is very little chance of getting him back. Their are also thieves out there who will be more than happy to see a puppy roaming around by himself and remove its collar in order to take it home.

2. Microchips: Microchips for dogs and other house pets have been around for quite some time. Originally, every microchip that was functioning in the United States were set on a frequency signal of 125kHz. Now microchips are functioning with a 134.2kHz in order to conform to internationally used microchip systems.

Microchip identification is surgically implanted into your dog underneath the skin and generally in between the shoulder blades. The size is no bigger than a grain of rice and this small chip contains the owner's contact information that is uploaded to a national database. It takes a special scanner to read the number on each microchip. These scanners are usually available at many veterinarian facilities and animal shelters.


3. Tattoo Identification: Identification by tattoo is a third option that can be done quite easy and is typically inexpensive. Most of the time these tattoos will list your phone number and the puppy's name. The ears or stomach area is typically the location that a tattoo will be imprinted. The only cons are that tattoos can fade in time and even altered.

For more information visit www.urbanoutsitters.com or go to Urban Out Sitters in Chicago for Dog Daycare.

Urban Out Sitters

Founded in September 1999, Urban Out Sitters serves dog owners around the Chicago area and provides dog daycare, pet hotel, and pet taxi services. With two locations across the city, Urban Out Sitters cares for more than 120 dogs each day.

Urban Out Sitters owner Joseph Giannini holds Pet First Aid and CPR certifications from the American Red Cross and is also a Professional Groomer with The Academy of Dog Grooming Arts. Outside of his work with Urban Out Sitters, Mr. Giannini also serves as an Animal Advocate with the Chicago Police Department and the Dog Advisory Work Group (D.A.W.G.), working with the courts to protect pets from abusive owners in the society at large. Mr. Giannini also has assisted the Anti-Cruelty Society and Chicago's Animal Control. He partners with Lakeshore Animal Shelter to provide free no-kill housing for lost, unwanted, and stray pets around Chicago.

Urban Out Sitters earned the title of Best Doggie Daycare & Pet Hotel from Chicago Magazine in their “Best Of” series and became the subject of profiles in a number of publications and media outlets including the CW, the Chicago Tribune, the Chicago Sun-Times, and Crain's Chicago Business.

As the city’s premier pet hotel, Urban Out Sitters works to deliver the best possible care and companionship to the pets who visit. The firm maintains clean, safe facilities. The company complies with all regulations, including the Department of Agriculture's strict sanitary and health requirements. As a smaller daycare and kennel, Urban Out Sitters was designed to provide supervision and quality care.

In addition to boarding services, Urban Out Sitter's staff offers dog walking, day care, and cat care. Urban Out Sitter's catsitters visit cats each day, replenishing food and water, cleaning the litter boxes, and even bringing in the mail when requested. Pet care givers are also qualified to provide medication and specific food to cats when necessary. After each visit, sitters call clients to check in and provide updates on the care of their cats.





At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Big cans, little cans, heavy bags and cute packs, soft foods, dry food, semi-moist, candies, biscuits, chewies, people-like crackers?????

Today's dog owner is confronted with a bewildering array of food for his pet.

Years ago, when such a variety wasn't available, dogs were fed foods that were most plentiful in the region. In the arctic, dogs were fed mostly fish and whale blubber; in the southern United States, a dog's diet consisted mainly of cornbread; in Europe, potatoes were the main fare. These diets led to diseases such as black tongue (pelegra in humans), rickets, and other less commonly known ailments, many of them fatal.

In the wild, the canine did not just restrict himself to eating just the meat of his prey. He ate the entire animal, including the contents of the stomach. Wild dogs were known to kill each other while fighting over the stomach contents of their prey. Thus, nature provided the wild animal with a diet considered nutritionally complete.

Domesticated dogs were not allowed that luxury, and usually were fed table scraps. These
diets, as they essentially reflected whatever diet the human was living on, sometimes resulted in serious nutritional imbalances and severe nutritional deficiencies.

After years of study, it was determined that even though the canine is considered a carnivorous animal, he requires certain carbohydrates, fats, proteins, vitamins, and minerals to satisfy nutritional requirements just as humans do. So he's not, by definition, a 'true' carnivore like a cat is.

In 1953, the National Research Council compiled and published nutritional requirements for dogs. The NRC is US-based, federally established scientific body whose basic function is gathering research data.

After World War II, the pet food industry began an enormous expansion. Already a highly competitive business, pet food manufacturers quickly found themselves in neck to neck competition for a piece of this highly lucrative business.

In order to survive and successfully compete in the market, pet food manufacturers knew that they must provide a dog food which was:

A) Nutritionally complete; containing all 26 nutrients that the National Research Council said that does need.

B) Palatable so that the dog would enjoy eating the food.

C) Easy and convenient for the customer to handle.

D) Economically competitive in the market.

Pet food manufacturers have established laboratories and hired nutritionists and food technicians to select those ingredients, which, when combined, will provide the sufficient nutrition to meet NRC standards.

Over the years,store purchased pet food has benefited from more research, analysis and scientific input. There is - quite literally - a dog diet to suit your dog no matter what their age, weight, activity level or breed.

So, on the question of supplements and, more to the point, does your dog need them?

The answer, quite simply is no, they don't 'need' them.

This doesn't mean you can't use them if you choose to as many owners find certain products do tend to improve their dog's all round wellbeing, in which case supplements clearly serve a great purpose - but the is, pet food is developed to contain all of the nutrients and nourishment your dog needs.

But there are times when certain supplements can perform an extremely valuable function. I'm talking about products such as joint supplements and other complementary items that can provide additional support where it might be needed. We will take a look at some of types of supplements and whether they will have any value for your dog, in a future edition - but hopefully we've set in stone the notion that in terms of diet, 'ordinary' store purchased pet food contains everything you dog needs nutritionally.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Canine hide and seek

Canine hide and seek might sound like a bit of a laugh, but it stimulates an integral area of many dogs' natural instincts such as scent tracking. People lost in avalanches are only too glad that the St Bernard that finds them likes a good game of hide and seek, and now you can bond with your dog indoors or out come rain or shine, in this fun, obedience orientated and stimulating activity.
Step One

You'll need a helper and a treat for this. Ensure that your dog is familiar with the stay command, otherwise this will be a very short game. Have your capable assistant ensure that your dog abides by the rules and stays put while you disappear just out of sight with a delicious treat tucked up your sleeve. The great thing about this game is that your dog always gets to win, a bonus for dogs that are a little low on confidence.

Step Two

When you are sure that your dog is aware of your absence, he will probably be bursting to come and get his treat, have your assistant let him go. As you hear the sound of paws scrambling across the kitchen floor, begin issuing the command you want to use in the future. 'Come and get me' is as good as any. Your first hiding place should not be out of sight (in the bin for instance) so he gets the hang of the game sooner rather than later. If you plan to play this game a lot, make sure the treat you use is healthy. You will always be found and will always have to issue the treat, so avoid turning your winning hound into a 'rolly poly' ball of flab by keeping the meaty treats only for a spectacular performance.

Step Three

When you feel the nudge of an excited nose on your face (or the whip of wagging tail depending on your position) be sure to issue lots of praise and reinforce the fact this is fun for both of you. You can extend the game a little at this stage by hiding the prize on your person rather than relinquishing it on sight of your pursuer. A squeaky toy tucked up the trouser leg can result in prolonged hilarity as your dog frantically tries to access it.

Step Four

Return to the beginning of the process, but ensure that you hide further away, and a little more out of sight. Again, you will need the help of your assistant as you are now going to make your dog wait a painstaking two minutes before he is released. Issue the command before he is released this time, but ensure your assistant prevents any false starts. See how determined your dog is by hiding under a bundle of blankets. If he merely paws at you, you need to put in more work. You want your dog to be practically dragging these obstacles away from his prize.

Step Five

Again return to step one, but have your assistant stay at a distance from your dog, only intervening if the cheating swine tries to get a sneaky peak at you before you are properly inserted into your hiding position. Make sure every time you play this you challenge your dog, otherwise it will become like going through the motions for him. But he won't tell you this as he will want his treat nevertheless. Test his loyalty by breaking a doggy biscuit in half and hiding one piece on his route to finding you and keeping the other piece on your person. If you hear a sequence of 'gallop, gallop, munch' sounds, you will know were his priorities lie.

Step Six

Incorporate obstacles into the game by closing doors and encouraging your dog to use his initiative. Also, moving the goal posts will keep your dog engaged. When the weather allows, hide outside and leave him to figure it out. Challenge your dog's obedience by extending the amount of time he has to wait before he is allowed to come and find you.

Final Step


Continue the game for as long as it is fun for both you and your dog, but make it interesting for both of you by introducing new challenges each time you play. Remember to praise your dog each and every time he finds you, this will avoid him associating the game with merely receiving a treat. For those of you who believe they have a little dog genius on their hands, try playing this game the other way round.



At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

separation anxiety

Today we're taking a look at a common canine complaint - the tricky issue of the dog who doesn't like to be left alone: separation anxiety.

Does this sound like you and your dog? You've had him since he was a puppy. He is a sweet dog, eager to please, and enjoys being around you and your whole family.

But lately, you've notice that he's become destructive around the house whenever he's left alone, even for just a few hours. You come home and the house looks like it was hit by a tornado - papers scattered everywhere, the trash can was knocked down, and your clothes were chewed into shreds.

Your dog may be suffering from separation anxiety, a problem common with many puppies and dogs. Separation anxiety is a panic disorder exhibited by a dog in the absence of his owner. It is the fear of being left alone that results in unwanted, destructive behaviors.

Dogs are social creatures. As puppies it is natural for them to get dependent and attached to their mother and littermates. This type of attachment is transferred on to you, his owner, when the puppy enters your life. This attachment results in distress whenever the dog is left alone in the house, which is the most common cause of separation anxiety.

Signs Of Separation Anxiety

Your dog could be suffering from separation anxiety if he displays any of the following signs: Destructiveness; excessive crying, barking, howling, whining, house soiling, pacing, depression, self mutilation, excessive salivation, hyperactivity, and scratching or chewing at walls, doors, windows, furniture, and other objects when you're not with him.

But how would you know if you weren't with him?

Sometimes it's good to try and find a vantage point to observe how your dog behaves when you're not there, somewhere where you can see him but he can't see you. It might just blow your mind how your dog behaves when he thinks you've gone.

Causes Of Separation Anxiety

There are many causes for separation anxiety in dogs. Some were developed with experiences they had before the dog ever became part of your family, such as loss or abandonment of previous owner.

Below are six other causes of separation anxiety in dogs:

1. A traumatic experience such as an injury, thunderstorm, or an alarm system going off that happened while you were gone.
2. A loss or addition of a family member.
3. Premature separation from its mother and littermates.
4. Having a new pet in the house and spending a lot of time with that new pet and less time with him.
5. A sudden change in schedule, lifestyle, or environment.
6. Changes that occur in older dogs, both physiologically and mentally, that results from ageing.

All of these things can cause or intensify feelings of stress and anxiety in many dogs. They can manifest in many different ways but one of the most common is separation anxiety.

So, how do we improve our dog's confidence and help them to relax when we're not there?

As we've already touched on, separation anxiety occurs when dogs feel frightened and distressed at the absence of their owner. This type of attachment problem can be mild or severe. A mild case is often exhibited when the dog is pacing, over-grooming, and panting, whereas a severe case of separation anxiety can be quite a challenge for the owner. The dog soils the house, cries nonstop, barks or howls, and destroys furniture and other objects around the house. Often times, the dog starts to show behaviours associated with separation anxiety after being left alone for only ten or fifteen minutes.

Here are five tips that can help.

1. Some dogs feel comfortable being confined to a smaller space ssuch as a crate or a small gated area of the house, while others feel comfortable when in a kennel outdoors (it really depends on the individual dog but it is something you should be aware of) If your dog starts to feel agitated when crated, take him out and do not try to force it because it can only make matters worse. If your dog takes well to the crate, you could have found a quick, easy solution to the problem.

2. In some cases, confining your dog to a small area where he has viewing access to the outside world is enough to make him feel comfortable and eliminate separation anxiety. You can place his crate or bed in front of a sliding glass door or a clear window. Unhelpfully, having a view of the outside world can make some dogs even worse! Again, it's time for testing.

3. Many dogs suffer from separation anxiety because of boredom. Find a job that your dog can do. Teach him how to play "Find it" - a game that he can play by himself. To play this game, you must hide his favorite bones or stuffed treats where he can find them. To keep him busy, use three or five bones or treats (depending on how long you'll be gone). Here's a really quick tip that has a very high success rate, I do it with my dogs: Get some sugarfree sugar puffs (sounds like a contradiction but trust me, they exist and you don't want your dog getting fat). Create a routine about when you're going out so your dog understands what's going on - it will help them if they are confused and expect you may have gone out for a moment or two and may have forgoten them. As you are leaving, grab a fistful of sugar free sugar puffs and start to scatter them in the area where the dog will be staying, encourage them to hunt and find, scatter them far and wide and if you have a dog who likes hunting for treats, this action will not only keep them busy but it can also become your 'signal' that you are going out for a while. After a short period, the dog will associate your going out with them getting a hunting game and, in many cases, they'll start to actually get excited about you leaving!

4. Another way to fight boredom is to provide your dog with plenty of toys. Rotate the toys so he will not get tired of playing with them. Playing, chewing, chasing, and hunting for his toys or treats has the power to cause your dog utilize his natural canine instincts while keeping him occupied for hours.

5. Leave the television on or play a soft, relaxing music. Researches have shown that soft, classical music relaxes dogs. Pick something that you listen to when you are at home, so your pet doesn't relate the music to your absence. Background noise can help to disguise any sounds from the outside world which may startle your dog or disturb them, causing them to bark or get stressed.

Best of luck.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

National Pet First Aid Awareness Month

In honor of National Pet First Aid Awareness Month, the leader in pet care and services, Urban Out Sitters and Pet Expert Joseph Giannini reminds pet parents that as the seasons change, so do dangers for the family pet. Before looking forward to warm summer weather, springtime often brings out the worst in Mother Nature with tornados, flooding and more. Spring is also a time for new blooms and buzzing bees. Did you know that Easter Lilies are toxic for cats? Pet parents need to be mindful of certain hazards that may have a devastating effect on their pet’s health. Pet Expert Joseph Giannini encourages pet parents to create a safety plan just in time for Pet First Aid Awareness Month this April.

“Pet First Aid is the immediate care given to a pet that has been injured or suddenly take ill. This includes home care and when necessary veterinary help. Knowing the skills and techniques of pet first aid can mean the difference between life and death; temporary and permanent disability; and expensive veterinarian bills and reasonable home care. According to the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) one-out-of-four more pets could be saved if just one basic pet first aid skill or technique was applied prior to receiving veterinary care.”

“We want to encourage pet parents to plan ahead for possible pet emergencies by taking small steps that could result in quicker response times during a potential dangerous situation. For example, keeping a pet first aid kit on hand and making sure pet parents understand how to care an injured pet until the pet is transported to a local emergency veterinarian are both important” said Giannini, Owner of Urban Out Sitters.

“Because there are only little variances between human and animal mechanisms of injury, pet parents can provide basic first aid for injuries and ailments like bruise and fractures or heat stroke and respiratory distress. Just like us, most incidents can be addressed using a first aid skill” according to Giannini. He says initial response and care is vital. “You are your pet’s paramedic during a health related emergency until your pet is transported to the veterinarian. Panic and doubt are not going to help your pet and can place you in danger” notes Giannini.

Giannini and Urban Out Sitters highly recommends pet parents keep important life saving phone numbers both in their cell phone registry and displayed on paper copy in a prominent well travelled area of the residence and vehicle. Important numbers include their primary veterinarian as well as their emergency veterinarian's phone number, the ASPCA Poison Control Center Number (888) 426-4435 and the Regular Poison Control Number (800) 222-1222.

From toxic plants to natural weather occurrences, the challenges in pet safety are most easily managed if pet parents take a lesson from Giannini and prepare for potential emergencies.

As a pet owner and pet care professionals we owe it to the pets in our life to be trained in these life-saving skills. To gain the skills of pet CPR, first aid and care, it is recommended you successfully complete a Pet First Aid class taught by a properly trained instructor. The skills and techniques of a pet first aid and care training should include but not be limited to: restraint and muzzling, CPR, rescue breathing, choking management, heat injuries (1st, 2nd, 3rd degree burns and heat stroke), cold injuries (frost bite and hypothermia), shock management, bleeding injuries and more.



Pet Expert, Joseph Giannini, is the Founder and Owner of Urban Out Sitters, Chicago’s premiere location for pet care offering luxury doggie daycare, dog walking, pet sitting and more. Urban Out Sitters has two locations across the city and provides Pet Hotel and Pet Taxi services for their Chicago clientele. Joe has 10 years experience working in the pet industry and cares for over 120 dogs a day! Joe is also Pet First Aid and CPR Certified by the American Red Cross and is a Professional Groomer, trained through The Academy of Dog Grooming Arts.

As an Animal Advocate, Joe works with the Chicago Police Department and The Dog Advisory Work Group (D.A.W.G) to protect pets from abusive owners. D.A.W.G is a court advocacy organization dedicated to ensuring the humane treatment of animals. Joe has worked with The Anti-Cruelty Society and Chicago’s Animal Control and is currently partnering with the Lakeshore Animal Shelter providing free no-kill boarding for lost, stray and unwanted pets throughout the Chicago city area.

Joe Giannini host’s a LIVE 30-minute weekly pet show on Channel 19’s CAN-TV. He’s a regular media commentator and appears regularly on WCIU. Joe has also been featured on the CW, in Chicago Tribune, Chicago Sun-Times and more! His business, Urban Out Sitters was voted Best Doggie Daycare & Pet Hotel by Chicago Magazine’s “Best Of” and has been profiled in Crain’s Chicago Business.


At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Introducing Your New Dog to Other Dogs

Introducing Your New Dog to Other Dogs

Before bringing a new dog home, be sure all animals are healthy, have current vaccinations and test negative for parasites. Realize that even if the dogs met successfully on neutral turf, things are different when you bring a new dog home. Make sure there's another person at the homecoming so the dogs can meet on-leash outside.

I use the Gentle Leader head collars; my clients call them power steering for dogs. They make a dog feel more calm and safe. The dog slows down and learns quicker. [Particularly for strong dogs] I have an additional collar on for back-up; I attach the leash to both the head halter and the training collar.

Prior to the introduction, leash-walk the new dog outside. Then bring out the other dog(s) on leash, preferably with choke/slip collars to provide full control. Make sure you are relaxed, so you don't telegraph anxiety through the leash. Avoid keeping the collar pulled tight, since "restraint frustration" elevates tension and the risk of aggression. The dogs will be more relaxed knowing they have some room to maneuver. Watch carefully so you can make a leash correction if necessary.

Make the meeting fun with a walk and some treats (timed to reward good, relaxed behavior). Introduce gradually, making sure the animals are calm. Pet the resident dog, assuring that everything's OK. If it's not OK, suspend introductions and resume the walk. Be careful to reward only good behavior.

Keep the dogs within sight of each other. (For more than two dogs, introduce each to the newcomer one at a time.) If the animals are receptive to each other, praise each one and reward them with treats and petting to show that good things happen when they are together. If there is a negative reaction, move back to the distance at which neither reacted. Watch for warning signs such as fur raised on the back, staring or stiffening up. If one dog reacts aggressively, don't punish the aggressor; instead, take him in a neutral or less valued area to settle down and ignore him. If both dogs act aggressively, remove each to different, neutral areas. Try re-introducing later in the day.

It is essential to use a positive vocal tone at any meeting with another animal or person. People have a tendency to be silent and not express happiness or enthusiasm - yet that is exactly what the dogs need to hear. They need to know that their leaders are confident.


When correcting unacceptable behavior, timing is critical. Do not wait for the lunge; at the first hint of aggression, such as a stare, correct with a firm "No" and a quick (but not punishing) leash correction, and redirect the dog's attention to you. You must keep control at all times and show the dogs YOU are the alpha. Don't be alarmed if they don't warm up to each other immediately. Either dog may engage in aggressive posturing, barking, marking, housetraining accidents, and possessiveness over toys and people. (If this persists beyond a week or two, consult a specialist.)

When the dogs come inside, a fight could break out, so leave the leashes on for quick control if needed. Keep all toys and treats out of sight until everyone is comfortable. An added advantage to having two people present when introducing dogs is that one can focus on praising each one. However, if you're alone, you can tie one dog's leash to a doorknob or sofa leg at a length that allows the animals to sniff each other at a safe range.

The resident dog might be insecure about his place in the pack. Reassure him, but do not let him misbehave or mistreat the newcomer. Resist the temptation to spoil either dog or to allow bad habits you'll have to break later. Trainers often advise to greet, pet, feed and play with the senior dog first.


The more socialized both dogs are, the less time it will take for them to become friendly. Try not to be nervous, or your dogs may sense the tension and even defend you from the other dog. To avoid injuries, keep new pets separate from others when you aren't able to supervise. (Some owners find it's best to continue to keep dogs separated at mealtime, and to keep toys off the floor, to prevent fights.) You might crate the newcomer in a family area. Avoid keeping him in a highly coveted area, such as near the other pets' food bowls.

Acclimation can take days or weeks. Be sure to give each pet 10 or 15 minutes of quality time alone with you each day - play, brush, massage, practice rewardable skills. Once the animals react well to each other, remove the leashes. Keep watch, and keep a spray bottle or whistle on hand to interrupt the pets if they begin to stare or otherwise misbehave. Continue rewarding good behavior with praise and kibble. Always let your dogs know what you expect of them, and they'll be responsive instead of confused.

Socialize your dog. Start when she is a young puppy, so she feels at ease with other people and animals. Expose your dog to a variety of situations gradually and under controlled circumstances. Be cautious; don't put your dog in a position where she feels threatened. Teach her to not be nervous in these situations.


Socialization is critical - and is more than exposing the dog to new experiences. The owner must act as leader in all situations, as the dog will be gauging the owner's reactions. Remain confident and relaxed, which also allows you to be sensitive to cues from the dog. If a dog does not sense his person can handle a situation, he may try to take charge or react in the only way he knows how - which might be barking, growling, lunging or trying to bite in an attempt to control the environment.









At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Travel with Pets -- Packing, Preparation and Other Trip Tips

Dog Tip: Travel with Pets -- Packing, Preparation and Other Trip Tips

* Whether you are taking your pet or boarding her, make sure all vaccinations are up to date. Kennels typically require a bordatella (kennel cough) vaccine to be given at least two weeks in advance of boarding. Even if you are taking your dog on your trip, you may have to board her unexpectedly. So that's another reason to keep your dog is up-to-date on vaccinations.

* Some areas have a higher incidence of Lyme disease-carrying ticks than others. Especially if you're camping and hiking with your dog, get a Lyme vaccination well in advance of your trip.

* Bring a copy of medical records, including rabies certificate.

* Apply flea and tick preventative to your dog.

* Pack any medications needed, including heartworm and other preventives.

* Be sure your pet always wears a well-fitted collar and ID tag with accurate contact information. It is important that the i.d. tag include an easily accessible number, such as your cell phone. When lodging out of town, prepare a temporary tag with the address and number of your travel quarters. Use waterproof tape and a waterproof marker to change your phone number as you travel.

* Pack several gallons of bottled water for you and your dog. This will help you avoid bacterial contamination while traveling, since water quality varies from place to place. If you run down to the last half gallon, begin mixing in equal parts with the water supply at your destination. If your pet is especially sensitive, use distilled water. Keep water in the car to prevent dehydration.

* Also bring water bottles that you can use when you hike or walk around town with your dog.

* Food. If you are not sure your brand of food will be available at your destination and along the way, or if you feed a special diet, bring enough food for the whole trip. If you feed canned food, bring a can opener and spoon.

* Take familiar things from your home that will comfort your pet. Bring along favorite chewies, toys, even the pet's bedding.

* Bring photos of your pet in case he escapes and you need to make "lost pet" posters. Store the pictures in resealable plastic bags. Also, pack a photo of family members with the pet in case you need additional proof that the pet is yours.

* Pack a sturdy leash and an extra collar. Whether or not your destination has a leash law, always keep your dog on leash for his safety and your peace of mind.

* Food and water bowls. Plus a portable water bowl or bottle for use when away from your lodging.

* Label pet belongings with destination information such as hotel name and phone number.

* Some dogs sunburn around their nose, ears and other areas. So pack sun protection cream for the dog.

* Brush or comb.

* Baby wipes or moist towelettes to wipe off paws. Also useful for cleaning ears and other body parts.

* Tweezers to remove ticks from skin and foreign objects from fur or paws.

* Poop bags.

* Towels, carpet cleaner, disinfectant spray, and trash bags for accidents.

* Keep a first aid kit close to the driver's seat. Include rolled gauze and tape to use as a muzzle in case you need to treat a wound or injury. Also use gauze to stabilize the joint above and below a possibly injured joint, and to stem any bleeding. You can also use a towel.

* Flashlight for walking at night.

* Lint and hair remover.

* Spread a blanket or sheet on the back seat of your car or beneath the pet carrier to make clean-up easier.

* Bring old sheets or bedspreads to cover bedding and furniture at your destination.

* Bring a roomy fanny pack or other hands-free pack or pouch to hold your keys, wallet, baggies and from which you can clip water bottles. This helps you keep your hands free to hold the dog's leash securely.

* Bag Balm or Vaseline. These are good for soothing dog paws after hiking in the country or on city streets. Beware of hot pavement, which can injure your dog's paws.

* Bring a crate. Folding crates are most convenient, although some folks prefer airline crates for certain situations. Even if your dog behaves beautifully at home, he may be nervous in a new place and cause damage. Another advantage of a crate is that the dog typically will feel more secure in it. If you have not used a crate before, gradually accustom your dog to the crate at home, well before your trip. See the Tips on the PAW website about using crates. For cats, use carriers.

* Practice crating your dog before leaving on your trip. Crate at family member's house, then at a friend's house, then other places, so your dog learns to be calm when you're visiting other places.

* A few cities and counties in the U.S. have dog breed restrictions, such as those aimed at pit bulls, Rottweilers and other breeds, so check before you visit a destination. Usually, you can do this by doing a web search with a combination of key words such as the breed name and city or county.

* If you are traveling across the nation's borders, you typically need a health certificate, so make plans in advance of your trip. A few places may require proof of a rabies vaccination within the past 12 months, so check with the health department at your destination city. You can usually get the info by doing a web search.

* When traveling, bring along Rescue Remedy, which is a Bach flower essence available in most health food stores. This gentle, natural stress reducing liquid can often help both people and animals recover from injury, fright, illness, travel fatigue and irritation. Put a drop in your water bottle and in their water. To help prevent travel sickness, a common dosage is four drops in the mouth about ten hours before the trip, repeating every four hours as needed. For stressed or injured animals, rub a drop on their ear or put a drop on the towel in their crate or carrier. Flower essences can be used along with conventional medicines. Another safe, nontoxic Rescue Remedy-like product is Animal Emergency Trauma Solution, available from www.greenhopeessences.com, where you can also get Flee Free to combat fleas nontoxically. Other flower essence sources include anaflora.com and perelandra-ltd.com.

On the Road:

* Pack ice chips or cubes when driving or walking. This makes a tasty treat for your dog, plus it melts down into water along the way.

* Driving with your dog? Be sure to see the important and handy car tips at http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_CarSafety.html

* Let your dog relieve himself before you visit public places and events...and do not bring your dog to places unless you know dogs are allowed. Many resorts do not allow dogs on the beaches at all during tourist season, so look for posted signs. And remember to carry poop bags at all times -- nature will call more frequently when on the road and in unfamiliar places.

* Warning: Public and hotel fountains often contain antifreeze, which is poisonous to pets.

* Looking for a local petsitter or boarding kennel in your travel destination, so that you can spend the day sight-seeing pet-free? Sources include:

National Association of Professional Petsitters
800-296-PETS
www.petsitters.org

Pet Sitters International
800-268-SITS
www.petsit.com

...or the most of the websites listed below under web resources.

Hotels, Motels and Lodging with Pets:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_Lodging.php

Web resources for traveling with pets, including pet-friendly lodging, campgrounds and parks, local vets and animal hospitals, local boarding kennels, and more:

http://www.choicehotels.com/en/pet-friendly-hotels
http://www.petswelcome.com
http://www.dogfriendly.com
http://www.takeyourpet.com
http://www.travelpets.com
http://www.petsonthego.com
http://www.dogtravelcompany.net
http://www.petsit.com
http://www.petsitters.org
http://www.mapquest.com
http://www.travelpet.com
http://www.bringyourpet.com

Lodging worldwide and free Bone Voyage newsletter
http://www.Pettravel.com

Europe lodging that allows pets
http://www.hotdogholidays.com

DogGone bimonthly newsletter
http://www.doggonefun.com

Print publications:
Vacationing With Your Pet by Eileen Barish
AAA's Traveling With Your Pet
Mobil's On the Road With Your Pet

http://www.abka.com

Hiking, Camping and Swimming with your Dog:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_Hiking.php

Car Trips and Car Safety:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_CarSafety.php

ASPCA and Animal Planet Trip Tips:
http://www.aspca.org
212-876-7700

Petsitters and Boarding Kennels:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_Petsitter.php

Air Travel with Pets:

Companion Air
Companion Air is a new airline that is pet-friendly. Animals travel in the cabin in a special section in secure kennels, and their people can visit them during the flight. Check out: http://www.companionAir.com

Pro Pet Transports
Nationwide door to door ground transport of pets
www.pro-pet-transports.com
1-866-ARE-PETS

ASPCA Air Travel Tips
http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=traveltips
212-876-7700

Air Transport Association
http://www.airlines.org/public/publications/display1.asp?nid=926
800-497-3326

USDA/Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/oa/pubs/bproglist.html
800-545-USDA

First Aid Kit and Guidance:
Keep a pet First Aid Kit in your home and car. Take the one you keep in your car with you on trips with your pet. This webpage lists items to include:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_FirstAid.php

CPR and Mouth-to-Snout Resuscitation:
Print these life-saving brochures to have on hand!
http://members.aol.com/henryhbk/acpr.html
http://www.rescuecritters.com/cpr.html

When traveling, you can find a nearby veterinarian using AAHA's Animal Hospital Locator:
http://www.healthypet.com/hospital_search.aspx

For emergencies, call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center 24-hour hotline at 1-888-4-ANI-HELP

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At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Dogs At Daycare

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Health Care

Health Care

When to go to the veterinarian:
Begin a relationship with a vet now, before you need one in a panic. Bring your medical records. While your rescue dog should be current on shots, altered, and heartworm-tested, you still need to buy heartworm preventative, and you may want your vet to thoroughly examine your new dog. See your vet when a problem arises or if your dog continues to have housetraining accidents.

Medical checklist:


Keep up on all shots.

Give heartworm preventative year-round in this area. Heartworm disease is deadly.

Regularly check between toes for debris.

Check and clean ears once a week.

Red eyes can mean conjunctivitis or allergies.

If a dog pays excessive attention to his anal area, he may have parasites. See your vet.

Ask your vet for flea prevention recommendations. Some brands contain tick control too.

Get a dog tooth brush and toothpaste and brush at least 4 times a week.
Heartworm disease & prevention:
Heartworms are deadly parasites transmitted by mosquitoes. The larvae lodge, grow and reproduce in the heart, eventually causing lung, liver and kidney failure and death. By the time symptoms such as lethargy and shortness of breath emerge, the dog has probably suffered organ damage. This disease has become much more common in recent years and can be contracted year-round. Treatment is very hard on the dog. Heartworm disease is easily prevented with monthly pills available from your vet. Keep dogs on preventative year-round. The dog must have a blood test to make sure he is not already infected.

Cleaning your dog's ears:
If dirt, wax and excess moisture are not routinely removed, ear problems can result. Here's how to clean your dog's ears at least once a week to keep them healthy:


Make a solution of 1/2 white vinegar and 1/2 lukewarm water.

Pour the solution into the ear.

Gently massage the base of the ear to distribute the solution.

Put a cotton ball over your fingertip and wipe the outer ear clean.

Let your dog shake out the excess solution.

Clean the ear again with a clean, dry cotton ball. Repeat as needed.
When to visit the vet: Objects stuck in the ear...redness or swelling...excessive tenderness, scratching, head-shaking... debris, discharge or foul odor.

Home Cure: After a bout of diarrhea, make some rice, adding extra water. Stop cooking before all of the water gets absorbed into the rice. Skim the starchy water off the top, and feed that liquid to your dog.


Flea/tick control products:
Products include topical liquids applied every 30-90 days and monthly oral tablets. Some kills adult fleas and ticks, some keep flea eggs from hatching, some combine heartworm preventative. As your vet for recommendations







At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Common Behavior & Behavioral Problems

Common Behavior & Behavioral Problems

"Undesirable behavior" is in the eye of the beholder. Many "bad habits" (chewing, mouthing, digging, jumping, chasing, barking) are natural, normal behaviors for a dog. But you can control and replace them with desirable behavior by taking the time to work with your dog. Give your dog opportunities to do something you can reward.

It may take a few weeks before you can train and trust your dog with free run of the house. Until then, when you cannot supervise him, confine him in a safe place such as a crate or baby-gated kitchen. Leave him toys to play with. Remove trash cans or secure trash can lids from the area.


Activity needs. Most often, there is nothing wrong with reportedly hyperactive dogs. Dogs need attention and exercise - and when people don't give them enough, the dog has to do something with that excess energy. By the way, dogs don't do things out of spite, which is a human concept. They do things that, right or wrong, seem like ways to cope.

It helps to determine the source of unwanted behavior. It often stems from the frustration of being alone, since dogs are social animals. If you leave your dog for long hours on workdays, consider doggie daycare or a mid-day dog walker. In some cases, misbehavior results from stress between the human members of the home, or another environmental change such as the arrival of a new household member. Lastly, a change in diet may be needed.

A puppy or dog has no memory of recent activities. So unless you catch him in the act of chewing or doing something unacceptable, scolding won't help.


Chewing. Chewing is how young dogs explore their environments and mature dogs relieve stress. Move chewable objects out of reach. Take up throw rugs. Shield or hide power cords. Spray Bitter Apple on furniture legs and wood trim. Make sure your dog always has access to his own chew toys. But limit the number of toys you give your dog, or he'll think nearly everything is fair game. Make a conscious effort to reward your dog for playing with the right toys. In addition, exercise your dog, and teach him obedience commands to redirect his energy.

When you catch him chewing something off-limits, direct him to "leave it," "drop it" or "out." This requires that you first teach your dog this command using positive reinforcement. When the dog drops the item, praise lavishly and give him an acceptable substitute to chew.

Teaching your dog to release items from his mouth. Put on a training collar and leash before a play session. Give him a favorite toy. Then, with the leash in your left hand (keep the training collar slack), command "drop it" - and immediately take the item from his mouth. Praise him with "good dog!" or "good drop!"


If your dog locks eyes or bares teeth, quickly yank the training collar once, then release. If he drops the item, praise him enthusiastically. If he displays aggression, get some of the good training books recommended later in this guide and enlist the help of a professional. Do not smack your dog; he will interpret this as a threat and his instinct will be to bite.


Barking. First, realize that some breeds were bred to bark. Next, figure out the key triggers of your dog's barking. Perhaps it's the mail carrier, children getting off the school bus, the neighbor coming out to mow his lawn, or daily joggers. As with many dog training issues, aim to reduce the opportunities as well as the incentives to misbehave.

If trigger events occur outside, bring him indoors before the triggers appear. He'll be less likely to bark when shielded from the opportunity. When he barks and the targets bypass or leave your property, this reinforces the barking behavior - and your dog figures he did his job well.

If you can't avoid the trigger events, be prepared to re-focus his attention on you. You can do this by using small treats and praise. Or before he focuses on the target for his barking, give a sharp, immediate leash correction. Re-direct his attention to you. Try to catch and stop him before he emits his first bark. Give the correction and command "no!" or "quiet!" When he attends to you, immediately praise him verbally and use tidbits to reinforce the praise. Keep this up and he will learn it is more pleasant not to bark.

The key is to break the barking cycle. To the dog, this cycle is: "Detect trigger person/event ... barkbarkbark...feel good and useful...the trigger leaves...my barking works great...I'll do that again!"

I use "no" as the disengage word for every behavior that is undesirable so the dog develops a clear association.
- Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor


Jumping. Jumping and mounting are often behaviors dogs choose to seek a higher rank in the pack; sometimes they just jump out of excitement. Keep people from exciting your dog to the point of jumping up, barking or nipping. Often, jumping can be discouraged by simply ignoring the dog until he settles down. Just turn and walk away. You also can carry tidbits, and provide a treat and attention only when the dog sits calmly on command.

You can correct your dog's bad behaviors by providing leadership, clarifying his subordinate role in the pack - and by training using humane methods. And remember: breaking your dog of bad habits is much harder than training him the right way the first time.


Out in the yard. Never leave a dog outside unattended, or overnight. Not only does this practice endanger your dog and subject you to legal liability, it too often leads to a nervous, troubled dog. Many dogs given up for "behavioral problems" had been kept outdoors or in basements. Also, dogs left outside dig holes or find a way under, over or through the fence. Even if your dog is not an escape artist, it helps to be there to correct him when he starts the self-rewarding act of digging.

Dogs want to be with their pack, and get lonely, bored and in trouble when alone. When you're not home, leave the dog in an area where the family spends a lot of time. You can start by confining him in a crate or with babygates until you've taught him good house manners.

Most dogs are time- vs. space-intensive. They'd rather have an owner to play with than a yard to play in. Running around a yard provides physical stimulation, but dogs also need the mental stimulation of active companionship with their people.



Furniture-hogging. Decide on the furniture and other house rules, then all family members must abide by the decisions. Consistency is key to training. To teach your dog to stay off the furniture, snap a long leash to his collar when you are home (and leave it on only when you are in the same room). Use a quick leash correction as soon as he tries to hop up. He'll get the message quickly. Many trainers advise that dogs not be allowed on furniture because the elevated position can give a dog the sense that he is the alpha and can lead to aggressive displays. Instead, give dogs their own comfy beds and crates.

To keep dogs off furniture when you're not home, place or tape balloons on the furniture - dogs don't like popping sounds. You can also use large-size bubble wrap.

New dogs can't get into trouble if they are on leash in the house. It is more humane and easier to stop bad habits before they start, then to change them after they learn something naughty. Maggie was on leash indoors when with me during [the period of] her obedience training. At the computer, I put the handle of the leash around one ankle. In the kitchen, the leash handle went on a cupboard knob.
It sounds cumbersome but you get used to it. Now she follows me from room to room in the house on her own volition. Just make sure that when you leave your dog alone, even for a minute, you remove the leash for safety reasons.
- Anna Marchy, trainer-in-training and adoptive mother of Maggie the pit bull



Bonding and insecurities. At first, your dog may be shy or needy. If he continues to cling to just one family member after the transition period, help him work through this problem. Using treats and vocal praise, gradually acclimate him to being near other family members. Have the other people do the feeding, walking and petting, so he associates them with positive, safe experiences.

Give plenty of vocal support and vocal encouragement! Don't be silent around a "shy" dog. Associate a lot of positives to things that may be new to him.
- Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor


Set up situations so that your dog can win if she acts appropriately. Since dogs only use what works for them, you need to show her that to get what she wants [such as scaring off an approaching dog], what normally worked for her in the past [growling, lunging] just won't work anymore. This is why I let dogs freak out in class. It's all part of learning. The dog will freak out for about 15 minutes, then realize that nothing is happening - that everyone is ignoring her! Then she switches to a different behavior to see if the new one will work.
A dog may go through an entire bag of tricks in hopes of a reward. I just wait for the appropriate behavior (this is "shaping behavior.") If the dog accidentally looks at you, there's your opportunity to give a treat. I want the dog to know she's on the right track - and to learn the pattern so well that when she sees another dog, she immediately looks at me for a treat.
- Cinimon Clark, positive-method trainer/behavior counselor



Nipping and biting. When young dogs gnaw and nip, people often excuse this as "puppy behavior." But it's unacceptable behavior that will continue, and grow worse, if not corrected. Like a child, a dog will test the limits and to see who's boss. The root of a dog's biting may be in lack of early socialization, fear, dominance, confusion over his role in the pack, a health problem requiring a trip to the vet or a dietary imbalance. By reading books and consulting a professional, you can alter this behavior.

As the leader, you must set limits. Don't tell a dog not to do something, then send mixed signals that his bad behavior is cute. Consistently reward him when he obeys; correct him when he doesn't.
- Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor


If your dog tries to nip during play, command "no" and immediately stop playing. If the leash is on, you can give a correction if he doesn't comply. Turn his eyes to meet yours to emphasize the point. You must feel and convey a leadership role. As soon as he calms down, say "good dog." Use your dog's name when giving praise; don't use it when in the act of correcting. Giving your puppy or dog something to chew on instead of your hand can also work.

We had a major problem with mouthing after bringing Crop home from the shelter. I ended up with bruises on my arms and legs. Physical intervention (shaking a can of pennies, spraying bitter apple on my arms and legs) didn't work; he just became more excited like it was a game. A trainer solved the problem in one night.
When Crop came over and mouthed me, the trainer had me jump up in alarm, yell "ow" and run into another room and slam the door. Crop sat by the door. After 5 minutes Crop left the door, and the trainer had me rejoin her and my husband in the living room. We continued a conversation, ignoring Crop. He then came over and more softly mouthed me, as if to test the situation. I repeated the performance. He waited at the door, then went into his crate. I returned to the living room. Crop then came over and just put his mouth on me. I repeated the performance - and he never mouthed me indoors again.

When he tried it the next day in the back yard, I yelled "ow" and ran inside, set the timer for 3 minutes and then went back out. He never mouthed me again. I wanted to relay this story because it fundamentally changed my relationship with Crop.
- Cheryl Bailey, adoptive mother of Crop, a pit bull mix




Four keys to raising a happy dog:
1. Train the dog well so that he understands what a command word means, what behaviors are rewarded, and what behaviors result in being corrected.
2. Gain the dog's respect by being consistent in your behavior and commands. A dog looks to us for leadership because he respects us, not because he fears us, or only because we give him treats.
3. Accustom the dog to a consistent way of living. Avoid indulging in an excessive amount of spoiling behaviors. Too many privileges will give the dog the impression that he is in charge.
4. Use caution when using crates for time-outs. A crate should not be used in a way that the dog may perceive as punishment. Don't create a negative association. So don't put the dog in a crate while scolding him; calm down first. Make being in the crate a positive experience






At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Who's Leading Who? Becoming the Leader

Who's Leading Who? Becoming the Leader

Your dog nips when you try to take a toy from him...ignores your request to exit the couch...or yanks ahead on walks. If you feel like your dog is challenging authority, then he probably thinks he is the "alpha" of the home. He needs to be taught a new, well-defined pecking order - and a new, lower place in the family hierarchy - for everyone's welfare. He needs YOU to become his leader. Otherwise, he'll rebel, growl and possibly bite when faced with a challenge.

Dogs aren't looking for a democracy - they're looking for leaders. Dogs want to know their place in the family pack and what their people expected of them, otherwise they're stressed. Most often, an "aggression" problem is really a "stress and confusion" problem. If your dog tries to dominate you or someone else in your household, it's probably because he sees role confusion and responds by taking charge.

"Alpha" is an attitude. It is not achieved by force or punishment. Rather, it is earned through confident, authoritative, consistent behavior on the part of the owner, who we prefer to call the leader. Dogs can sense who's in charge immediately; they are continuously reading your body language and are aware each time their people don't enforce commands. Notice how most dogs watch a good obedience instructor - and how they seem to wait to be given direction. They express respect and interest, not fear.

Then notice how a good obedience instructor behaves. He or she will walk with confidence...stand up straight...use a firm tone of voice. And that voice expresses commands as a directive, not a question. ("Come...? Come on, come...?") The dog realizes this person makes the decisions.

Are you rewarding bad behavior? Anticipate and remove opportunities for undesirable behavior. Don't let your dog dash out the door, for the accompanying feelings of joy and freedom are self-rewarding. Don't leave food on the counter, because if the dog grabs a tasty sandwich, counter-surfing has just been reinforced.


For dogs, it's natural to try to control their world with their jaws. Natural, but unacceptable. We need to regain control by using our minds.

How to reverse roles and become leader of the pack:
Step one: no more freebies. From now on, your dog must behave in order to earn the good things in life - petting, treats, meals, walks around the block. These are rewards you can use as you reinforce the new rules of behavior.

Use petting, feeding and playing as rewards. Before setting down the food bowl, instruct your dog to "sit." Say it only once. He receives his food - and enthusiastic praise ("Good boy!) only when he sits calmly. Pogo-ing from a seated position does not count. No "sit," no reward. Put the bowl out of his reach and walk away. Try again later. In addition, if your mealtimes coincide with your dog's, prepare his food first, but place it out of reach. Then eat your meal first before setting down his bowl. The leader in a dog pack eats first.

Subordinate dogs lick and bow to dominant dogs as a gesture of respect. So when you're working to modify the behavior of a dominant, unruly dog, reserve petting to use as positive reinforcement. To receive attention, he must obey a command such as "sit." Praise and pet as soon as he complies. If he prods you for more attention, ignore him. The idea is to convey to him that you decide when to begin and stop petting. The same should apply to playing, feeding and going for walks.

Lead the way, literally and figuratively. Starting today, don't let the dog bolt ahead ofyou out the door or drag you on walks. Keep your dog on leash, instruct him to sit, cross the threshold first and don't let him out until he complies. If he tends to push through the dog as you open it, slam it shut each time his nose approaches the opening. After 5 or 6 repetitions, he'll start getting the idea, but you cannot lapse and let him barrel out in front of you or he will resume the bolting behavior. On walks, strive to keep him at a heel.

Stay on a higher level than your dominant dog. During the retraining period, don't sit down to pet or play on the floor with your dog. Pet and praise from a level above the dog's head. In addition, at least until the dog learns his place in the pack, keep him off your bed and other furniture. He should stay at floor-level. On a related note, when you and your dog eye each other, as a leader you should hold the stare longer until he averts his eyes.

Stop the jumping. For dogs are challenging their people, it is important to discourage jumping up, as it is a dominating behavior. Ignore the dog, or command "Off" or "No." When greeting, give attention and petting to the dog only when he sits. If you later want to teach your dog to jump up (or get on the couch with you), you can, but the behavior should be on your terms.

No more playing favorites. If the dog ignores or intimidates another member of the household, let that person be the one to feed and dispense treats to the dog for now. It's essential that everyone in your family practices the same techniques while retraining the dog. Like a child, if a dog finds someone he can dominate, he'll do it.

Control the games. Tell family and friends not to taunt, wrestle or play tug-of-war - these games encourage dogs to dominate physically and to use their teeth. The outcome of games determines who's dominant in a pack. Instead, play hide and seek with a prized toy or fetch. As leader, you must be the one who decides when to start and end the game. Stop playing before the dog loses interest.

Use a crate. The crate serves several important functions. It gives the dog a secure den to call his own - a place to retreat when he wants to relax. Keep the crate door open when you're home so that he can enter if he'd like. The crate also helps you establish a new routine during retraining. Work on training him to go into the crate willingly, on command. Don't take "no" for an answer. To make the crate a welcoming place, start by giving him treats for going in the crate and feeding him in this area. Before training sessions, keep him in the crate an hour so that when you let him out, it will be easier to focus all of his attention on you. This practice also conveys that you, the leader, decides when he goes in and exits the crate. If your dog barks in the crate, ignore him. Do not release him until he's quiet and somewhat relaxed.

Diligently work at retraining so you can reach a point when your dog looks to you as the leader who decides what to do and when. And when you reach that point, don't slack off. You and the other human members of your household should always exude leadership and confidence. In most cases, if a dog knows he can depend on you, he will respect you and his new position on the family totem pole.

Peeing and pooping indoors? Aggressive behavior? Hyperactivity? These can be symptoms of common health problems. For example, a dog with from worms may potty indoors. And a dog suffering from impacted anal glands or a leg injury might be in pain - and bite when someone tries to touch him. See a veterinarian to rule out a medical basis for behavioral problems.






At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Obedience Training & Owner Education

Obedience Training & Owner Education

How important is obedience training and owner education? Essential! In fact, training is the biggest factor in whether an adoption succeeds or fails.

When we talk about training, we don't mean just having a trainer teach sit-stay-heel. We mean: YOU as the owner learning about dog behavior and training, and then YOU teaching and guiding your dog with patience and consistency so that he learns how to behave in a world of humans.

Dogs are pack animals who need leadership and rules to survive. Training will make your dog a trustworthy, socialized family member and forge a bond with your dog. Group classes teach you how to communicate with your dog despite distractions, and your dog will benefit from this socialization opportunity. The more socialized your dog, the more places you can go together. All family members should participate in training and agree on the rules, so they can teach the dog with consistency.

Think positive: Get recommendations for a class taught by a professional and based on positive reinforcement. Talk with the trainer and observe a class first to ensure the trainer uses humane techniques. The facility should be clean inside and outside.

Reward and repeat: If a dog does something that results in reward, he will do it most likely do it again. If you work with your dog each day and reward desired behavior, he will learn what is expected of him. If a dog doesn't learn, it means the owner didn't take enough time to teach and guide him. That is why so many dogs given up as "impossible" turn out to be model canine citizens when lucky enough to be adopted by someone else.


Be patient, firm and consistent: Reward good behavior. Small edible treats work well; always accompany them with verbal praise and positive body language. This is reward-based training.

Put down that newspaper! Punishment teaches a dog to avoid the lesson and distrust the teacher. For example, if you hit a dog who just urinated indoors, he'll learn not to potty when you're looking. Instead, reward good behavior, set up opportunities for the dog to learn and display good behavior - and disrupt or ignore bad behavior.


Timing is essential: Correct immediately when an unacceptable behavior occurs, not afterwards, then praise enthusiastically when your canine modifies her behavior.

By correct, we mean a quick yank of the leash, immediately letting it go slack. Some people find spraying water, shaking a can of pennies or tossing a small sack of rattling items (such as beans) effective in disrupting a behavior. However, these aversive techniques should be used to interrupt the dog's action, not as punishment - and they work best when you successfully conceal the fact you are causing the noise. It's better if the dog thinks his own action caused the surprise noise, spray or the landing of the rattle-sack. Never toss the sack at your dog, just in the vicinity of his misbehavior. And it's meaningless to throw it after the misbehavior occurs. Again, timing is key.

Ignoring can be the best medicine: Many modern-method trainers advise to ignore misbehavior such as jumping or grabbing at a sleeve. Instead, turn away - then praise and reward as soon as your dog calms down. Take that opportunity to instruct the dog to engage in a positive action such as "sit." Dogs thrive on attention; often dropping behaviors that don't pay off - while looking for ways to gain attention.

This is a big reason why young dog run off with shoes. (The other reasons being that they like things that carry their people's smells.) He knows that you'll come looking for the shoe, and give him attention. Most dogs, similar to children, prefer negative attention to no attention at all. So try to remove the opportunity by putting away shoes and your other personal items.

Anticipate and avoid opportunities for misbehavior. For example, don't let the dog dash out the door. Take the time to teach him to sit-stay away from the door when people are coming and going. Before you have taught him to be trustworthy, keep him in another room or crate.


Give a verbal command only once - if the dog doesn't respond immediately, firmly put her in the position of the command (i.e. "sit"). Repeating commands ("sit, sit, come on, sit, sit, SIT...") means the dog has not learned "sit" means sit.

And don't issue a command unless you are in a position to enforce it. For example, don't say "come" unless you have a long-line attached to guide him to you if your dog is not yet reliably complying. If you don't enforce a command, you are teaching the dog that listening is optional.

Another common pitfall is combining commands. "Sit," "down" and "come" are distinct and important commands. "Sit-down" and "come on sit" aren't. Be clear.

Once you have your dog reliably responding to a command, start practicing the command in situations with distractions, recommends trainer Eric Lundquist. When you and your dog have accomplished that level of difficulty, it's time to generalize the response to other locations and people. For example, your dog may be great at sit-stays in your home. Now take him outside with several neighbors present.

Always praise a dog for coming to you. Never correct, scold or punish a dog when he comes to you, even if the response is delayed or it was preceded by something naughty.


Learn everything you can - it's worth every penny and every minute because your whole family will benefit. Each dog is different, so it may take more than one approach to solve a problem.

Remember: obedience class is more for you than the dog. It teaches you to train your dog. It teaches you how to be alpha, how to gain your dog's respect and obedience, and how to help your dog to live in the human world.

All family members who are old enough to interact with the dog should participate in training. Obedience commands need to be practiced and incorporated into your daily life. Certain commands, like "down-stay," can be invaluable in the house and a life-saver when out in public.

Practicing obedience also gives dogs a terrific outlet for their physical and mental energy. A well- trained dog can go more places with you. And a dog who's secure in his place in the family pack is happy to let his human be the leader.

You can teach a young dog new tricks. Start teaching your puppy simple commands like sit and stay. Keep your training periods short and fun, using lots of praise and treats. Work on one command at a time and end the session when the pup has successfully completed a command. Puppy kindergarten classes for dogs under six months of age are highly recommended for early socialization with strangers and other dogs.
The first six months are critical in shaping the relationship between puppy and family. It will take time, knowledge and persistence to repair a relationship-gone-wrong. While it's easy to blame the puppy or the breed, the truth is that almost any dog can be adjust to almost any family if the owners spend make the daily effort during the first six months.









At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com