Urban Out Sitters Pet Care

Pampering pups at Palmer House’s Doggie Tea Party - PhotoGallery - Chicago Sun-Times

2011-06-01T19:13:00.000-05:00

Pampering pups at Palmer House’s Doggie Tea Party - PhotoGallery - Chicago Sun-Times

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Is your dog itching to tell you something?

2011-05-24T18:03:00.001-05:00

Itching and scratching is a pretty normal thing for a pet to do, but if your pet has a consistent itch they may be suffering from an allergic skin condition.

Research has confirmed that the food/diet your dog eats can have a major bearing on their skin.

Skin allergies are extremely common with up to 40 per cent of all pets having problems associated with the skin.

According to Dr Didier-Noël Carlotti, a leading animal dermatologist, minimising the effects of an allergic reaction, irrespective of the allergen, is the most important first step to quickly alleviate the animal's symptoms and discomfort.

"Antioxidants and omega-3s are useful - along with specific therapy, such as flea-control and allergen specific immunotherapy - for combating the dermal effects of flea bite hypersensitivity and environmental allergens respectively; while food sensitivity is best tackled with a food source to which the animal has not been previously exposed," said Dr Carlotti.

This means it's important when choosing a diet, it should encompasses all of these elements (antioxidants, omega-3s) regardless of what the skin condition of your dog may be.

Additionally, high levels of omega-6 fatty acids are important in maintaining a glossy coat in pets. A diet filled with antioxidants can also protect all body cells against the damaging effects of free radicals (especially the skin), as well as environmental pollution and ultraviolet radiation.

Visit www.urbanoutsitters.com for more information or contact Joseph Giannini at Urban Out Sitters.

Improve Your Understanding of Your Dog by Getting to Understand How They Hear

2011-05-18T17:55:00.001-05:00

A dog's keen sensitivity to low-volume sound is often troublesome. They can hear a faint sound at 75 feet, while most humans could only detect it at 17 feet. This indicates that a dog must learn to ignore myriad sounds that do not affect him, and accommodate to a veritable avalanche of sounds in a family household, such as television, radio, stereos, etc.

When it comes to our relationship with our dogs, this IS a big deal!

Think about it, the dog does not hear like you and I. He has an acute ability to hear certain things far better than us and other times, he'll literally tune out.

When this sensitivity is translated to phobic behaviour relative to, say, thunderstorms, it indicates that dogs may hear the thunder of an approaching storm over 50 miles away, while the sky is still clear. If a dog has a history of becoming upset by thunder or other explosive sounds, he may become increasingly anxious as the storm nears, salivating, pacing, hiding, seeking comfort if the owner is home, or escaping.

This sensitivity may also cast some doubt on some of the commercially marketed "desensitising" techniques, such as playing recordings of thunder at low levels. Audio speakers are not designed to produce volumes softer than humans can perceive - in other words, if we hear them the way they're meant to sound, then they sound VERY different to the dog because his hearing is not 'wired up' the same as our own.

In the case of storms, they are generally preceded by elements to which dogs and some other mammals appear to be sensitive. Merely producing low-volume thunder claps may not fulfill the total stimulus complex required to achieve desensitisation. This is important to remember if we're dealing with a noise sensitive dog - it really isn't as simple as sticking on a CD and hoping they 'get used to it'. The CD sounds very, very different.

An important auditory/learning tendency in dogs is to quickly develop a motor movement response to a sound stimulus when the sound is accompanied by a visual signal. In other words, dogs tend to move their head, ears, eyes or other body part in response to sound accompanied by movement.

So it's important to remember that a dog will very quickly lock on to carrying out a certain behaviour in response to a particular sound - whether we've inadvertently trained this behaviour ourselves or not, the dog will respond based on what HE's learned.

A fun game to play is to create a number of different sounds and see which ones cause the most positive reaction in the dog - it gives an owner an excellent insight in to which sounds the dog reacts well to and this is something that can be very well utilised when we're teaching our dogs new things.

Finally, just to reiterate, the way to treat noise phobic dogs is to get a better understanding of the fact that it often isn't just noise that they're actually upset about, it can be a whole number of atmospheric incidents that us mere humans haven't even spotted. Many dog owners treat such problems with pheromone products and by using distraction techniques to occupy a dog on something fun and positive during a storm or other stressfully noisy event.

The Proper Way To Clean Up Dog Accidents

2011-05-18T08:49:00.001-05:00

The first thing to do when there's a canine mishap is to clean it up as best possible. With urine, blot up as much of the liquid as you can with paper towels. With poop, pick it up gently without further rubbing it into the floor. Do not grab your household carpet cleaner; it won't work on this kind of stain.

Regular household detergents and cleaners don't particularly help with cleaning up after accidents because the scent tends to remains which encourages the puppy or even other dogs to reuse the same area over and over again.

There are a few spray cleaners available specifically for pet cleanup that contain smell and stain removers. They are excellent for small accidents. There are also products that contain enzymes that naturally break down the chemicals in the waste and eradicates any odors.

These products are effective, though it's important not to use other cleaners before the enzyme product. Use these products thoroughly because dog noses are many times more sensitive than our own.

Cleaning accidents properly with an enzyme product solution will dramatically reduce the time it takes to house train your dog because he won't be drawn back to the same areas. Enzyme solutions "digest" the organic material in the carpet or wood to eliminate the smell.

If you do not use an enzyme product, your dog will likely be drawn back to use the same spot again. Sometimes you may want to try using a black light because you can use it to see soiled areas that you can't see with the naked eye.

Dog ID: Which is the Right Choice for YOUR Dog?

2011-05-17T08:34:00.000-05:00

Dog ID: Which is the Right Choice for YOUR Dog?

Identification for your dog could easily be compared to insurance - you are glad you have it but you hope you never have to use it!

However, if you do, you'll feel safe and secure knowing that it's there. When it comes to your dog, and especially small puppies, you never know when they might accidentally slip out the back door and having proper identification can mean the difference between getting your lovable pet back into your arms, or losing her forever!

What Is The Best Type Of Identification For My Dog?

There are several types of identification that can be used to help identify your dog if he or she was ever to become lost. To give you a clear idea of each type so that you can make an informed decision on how to secure your dog, here is the list:

1. Basic Tags and Collars: This type of identification is fairly inexpensive and can be taken care of quickly. You can order metal or plastic tags that have your address and phone number imprinted on them. The tag will then be attached to the dog's collar. This form of identification is also easy to spot and anybody who sees a dog running loose can simply look down and check to see what family he belongs to.

Unfortunately, these tags can also be easily removed or torn off. If your dog or puppy loses this identification then there is very little chance of getting him back. Their are also thieves out there who will be more than happy to see a puppy roaming around by himself and remove its collar in order to take it home.

2. Microchips: Microchips for dogs and other house pets have been around for quite some time. Originally, every microchip that was functioning in the United States were set on a frequency signal of 125kHz. Now microchips are functioning with a 134.2kHz in order to conform to internationally used microchip systems.

Microchip identification is surgically implanted into your dog underneath the skin and generally in between the shoulder blades. The size is no bigger than a grain of rice and this small chip contains the owner's contact information that is uploaded to a national database. It takes a special scanner to read the number on each microchip. These scanners are usually available at many veterinarian facilities and animal shelters.

3. Tattoo Identification: Identification by tattoo is a third option that can be done quite easy and is typically inexpensive. Most of the time these tattoos will list your phone number and the puppy's name. The ears or stomach area is typically the location that a tattoo will be imprinted. The only cons are that tattoos can fade in time and even altered.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Urban Out Sitters

2011-05-16T20:17:00.000-05:00

A comprehensive pet care facility, Urban Out Sitters provides Chicago-area pet owners with cat care, dog walking, boarding, and day care services out of two main locations within the city. As part of its day care services, Urban Out Sitters provides a way for active dogs to use their natural energy, instincts, behavior, and desire to play with other dogs. Dogs at Urban Out Sitters play together in a cage-free environment within groups that range in size and include puppies, small dogs, and large dogs. The staff at Urban Out Sitters places each dog in the appropriate group to maximize socialization and enjoyment. The facilities offer breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks; outside play time; a web cam for owners to check in; and departure baths whenever desired.

For longer stays, Urban Out Sitters was rated one of the top pet hotels by Chicago Magazine's “Best Of” series. Urban Out Sitters’ boarding location is personally staffed 24 hours each day and includes cage-free playgroups, outside play, and webcam access. Urban Out Sitters also offers a pet taxi transportation service, which can be used for pick-up or drop-off to help owners get their pets to the facility conveniently.

In addition to its wide variety of dog services, Urban Out Sitters maintains an in-home cat sitting service. Urban Out Sitters' catsitters visit clients' pets each day, refilling food, offering fresh water, cleaning the litter box, and bringing in clients' mail. Sitters are prepared to accommodate special food and medication needs for cats, and the staff member will call the client after each visit to allow owners to check in on their pets while they are away. Offering in-home sitting reduces the stress on cats associated with travel.

Urban Out Sitters was founded in 1999 by Joseph Giannini, an Animal Advocate with the Chicago Police Department and The Dog Advisory Work Group, which protects pets from abusive owners. Mr. Giannini holds CPR and Pet First Aid certifications from the American Red Cross and is also trained as a Professional Groomer through The Academy of Dog Grooming Arts.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

What Is The Best Type Of Identification For My Dog?

2011-05-16T20:11:00.001-05:00

Dog ID: Which is the Right Choice for YOUR Dog?

Identification for your dog could easily be compared to insurance - you are glad you have it but you hope you never have to use it!

However, if you do, you'll feel safe and secure knowing that it's there. When it comes to your dog, and especially small puppies, you never know when they might accidentally slip out the back door and having proper identification can mean the difference between getting your lovable pet back into your arms, or losing her forever!

What Is The Best Type Of Identification For My Dog?

There are several types of identification that can be used to help identify your dog if he or she was ever to become lost. To give you a clear idea of each type so that you can make an informed decision on how to secure your dog, here is the list:

1. Basic Tags and Collars: This type of identification is fairly inexpensive and can be taken care of quickly. You can order metal or plastic tags that have your address and phone number imprinted on them. The tag will then be attached to the dog's collar. This form of identification is also easy to spot and anybody who sees a dog running loose can simply look down and check to see what family he belongs to.

Unfortunately, these tags can also be easily removed or torn off. If your dog or puppy loses this identification then there is very little chance of getting him back. Their are also thieves out there who will be more than happy to see a puppy roaming around by himself and remove its collar in order to take it home.

2. Microchips: Microchips for dogs and other house pets have been around for quite some time. Originally, every microchip that was functioning in the United States were set on a frequency signal of 125kHz. Now microchips are functioning with a 134.2kHz in order to conform to internationally used microchip systems.

Microchip identification is surgically implanted into your dog underneath the skin and generally in between the shoulder blades. The size is no bigger than a grain of rice and this small chip contains the owner's contact information that is uploaded to a national database. It takes a special scanner to read the number on each microchip. These scanners are usually available at many veterinarian facilities and animal shelters.

3. Tattoo Identification: Identification by tattoo is a third option that can be done quite easy and is typically inexpensive. Most of the time these tattoos will list your phone number and the puppy's name. The ears or stomach area is typically the location that a tattoo will be imprinted. The only cons are that tattoos can fade in time and even altered.

For more information visit www.urbanoutsitters.com or go to Urban Out Sitters in Chicago for Dog Daycare.

Urban Out Sitters

2011-05-14T17:14:00.001-05:00

Founded in September 1999, Urban Out Sitters serves dog owners around the Chicago area and provides dog daycare, pet hotel, and pet taxi services. With two locations across the city, Urban Out Sitters cares for more than 120 dogs each day.

Urban Out Sitters owner Joseph Giannini holds Pet First Aid and CPR certifications from the American Red Cross and is also a Professional Groomer with The Academy of Dog Grooming Arts. Outside of his work with Urban Out Sitters, Mr. Giannini also serves as an Animal Advocate with the Chicago Police Department and the Dog Advisory Work Group (D.A.W.G.), working with the courts to protect pets from abusive owners in the society at large. Mr. Giannini also has assisted the Anti-Cruelty Society and Chicago's Animal Control. He partners with Lakeshore Animal Shelter to provide free no-kill housing for lost, unwanted, and stray pets around Chicago.

Urban Out Sitters earned the title of Best Doggie Daycare & Pet Hotel from Chicago Magazine in their “Best Of” series and became the subject of profiles in a number of publications and media outlets including the CW, the Chicago Tribune, the Chicago Sun-Times, and Crain's Chicago Business.

As the city’s premier pet hotel, Urban Out Sitters works to deliver the best possible care and companionship to the pets who visit. The firm maintains clean, safe facilities. The company complies with all regulations, including the Department of Agriculture's strict sanitary and health requirements. As a smaller daycare and kennel, Urban Out Sitters was designed to provide supervision and quality care.

In addition to boarding services, Urban Out Sitter's staff offers dog walking, day care, and cat care. Urban Out Sitter's catsitters visit cats each day, replenishing food and water, cleaning the litter boxes, and even bringing in the mail when requested. Pet care givers are also qualified to provide medication and specific food to cats when necessary. After each visit, sitters call clients to check in and provide updates on the care of their cats.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Big cans, little cans, heavy bags and cute packs, soft foods, dry food, semi-moist, candies, biscuits, chewies, people-like crackers?????

2011-05-11T17:42:00.000-05:00

Today's dog owner is confronted with a bewildering array of food for his pet.

Years ago, when such a variety wasn't available, dogs were fed foods that were most plentiful in the region. In the arctic, dogs were fed mostly fish and whale blubber; in the southern United States, a dog's diet consisted mainly of cornbread; in Europe, potatoes were the main fare. These diets led to diseases such as black tongue (pelegra in humans), rickets, and other less commonly known ailments, many of them fatal.

In the wild, the canine did not just restrict himself to eating just the meat of his prey. He ate the entire animal, including the contents of the stomach. Wild dogs were known to kill each other while fighting over the stomach contents of their prey. Thus, nature provided the wild animal with a diet considered nutritionally complete.

Domesticated dogs were not allowed that luxury, and usually were fed table scraps. These
diets, as they essentially reflected whatever diet the human was living on, sometimes resulted in serious nutritional imbalances and severe nutritional deficiencies.

After years of study, it was determined that even though the canine is considered a carnivorous animal, he requires certain carbohydrates, fats, proteins, vitamins, and minerals to satisfy nutritional requirements just as humans do. So he's not, by definition, a 'true' carnivore like a cat is.

In 1953, the National Research Council compiled and published nutritional requirements for dogs. The NRC is US-based, federally established scientific body whose basic function is gathering research data.

After World War II, the pet food industry began an enormous expansion. Already a highly competitive business, pet food manufacturers quickly found themselves in neck to neck competition for a piece of this highly lucrative business.

In order to survive and successfully compete in the market, pet food manufacturers knew that they must provide a dog food which was:

A) Nutritionally complete; containing all 26 nutrients that the National Research Council said that does need.

B) Palatable so that the dog would enjoy eating the food.

C) Easy and convenient for the customer to handle.

D) Economically competitive in the market.

Pet food manufacturers have established laboratories and hired nutritionists and food technicians to select those ingredients, which, when combined, will provide the sufficient nutrition to meet NRC standards.

Over the years,store purchased pet food has benefited from more research, analysis and scientific input. There is - quite literally - a dog diet to suit your dog no matter what their age, weight, activity level or breed.

So, on the question of supplements and, more to the point, does your dog need them?

The answer, quite simply is no, they don't 'need' them.

This doesn't mean you can't use them if you choose to as many owners find certain products do tend to improve their dog's all round wellbeing, in which case supplements clearly serve a great purpose - but the is, pet food is developed to contain all of the nutrients and nourishment your dog needs.

But there are times when certain supplements can perform an extremely valuable function. I'm talking about products such as joint supplements and other complementary items that can provide additional support where it might be needed. We will take a look at some of types of supplements and whether they will have any value for your dog, in a future edition - but hopefully we've set in stone the notion that in terms of diet, 'ordinary' store purchased pet food contains everything you dog needs nutritionally.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Canine hide and seek

2011-05-11T12:26:00.003-05:00

Canine hide and seek might sound like a bit of a laugh, but it stimulates an integral area of many dogs' natural instincts such as scent tracking. People lost in avalanches are only too glad that the St Bernard that finds them likes a good game of hide and seek, and now you can bond with your dog indoors or out come rain or shine, in this fun, obedience orientated and stimulating activity.
Step One

You'll need a helper and a treat for this. Ensure that your dog is familiar with the stay command, otherwise this will be a very short game. Have your capable assistant ensure that your dog abides by the rules and stays put while you disappear just out of sight with a delicious treat tucked up your sleeve. The great thing about this game is that your dog always gets to win, a bonus for dogs that are a little low on confidence.

Step Two

When you are sure that your dog is aware of your absence, he will probably be bursting to come and get his treat, have your assistant let him go. As you hear the sound of paws scrambling across the kitchen floor, begin issuing the command you want to use in the future. 'Come and get me' is as good as any. Your first hiding place should not be out of sight (in the bin for instance) so he gets the hang of the game sooner rather than later. If you plan to play this game a lot, make sure the treat you use is healthy. You will always be found and will always have to issue the treat, so avoid turning your winning hound into a 'rolly poly' ball of flab by keeping the meaty treats only for a spectacular performance.

Step Three

When you feel the nudge of an excited nose on your face (or the whip of wagging tail depending on your position) be sure to issue lots of praise and reinforce the fact this is fun for both of you. You can extend the game a little at this stage by hiding the prize on your person rather than relinquishing it on sight of your pursuer. A squeaky toy tucked up the trouser leg can result in prolonged hilarity as your dog frantically tries to access it.

Step Four

Return to the beginning of the process, but ensure that you hide further away, and a little more out of sight. Again, you will need the help of your assistant as you are now going to make your dog wait a painstaking two minutes before he is released. Issue the command before he is released this time, but ensure your assistant prevents any false starts. See how determined your dog is by hiding under a bundle of blankets. If he merely paws at you, you need to put in more work. You want your dog to be practically dragging these obstacles away from his prize.

Step Five

Again return to step one, but have your assistant stay at a distance from your dog, only intervening if the cheating swine tries to get a sneaky peak at you before you are properly inserted into your hiding position. Make sure every time you play this you challenge your dog, otherwise it will become like going through the motions for him. But he won't tell you this as he will want his treat nevertheless. Test his loyalty by breaking a doggy biscuit in half and hiding one piece on his route to finding you and keeping the other piece on your person. If you hear a sequence of 'gallop, gallop, munch' sounds, you will know were his priorities lie.

Step Six

Incorporate obstacles into the game by closing doors and encouraging your dog to use his initiative. Also, moving the goal posts will keep your dog engaged. When the weather allows, hide outside and leave him to figure it out. Challenge your dog's obedience by extending the amount of time he has to wait before he is allowed to come and find you.

Final Step

Continue the game for as long as it is fun for both you and your dog, but make it interesting for both of you by introducing new challenges each time you play. Remember to praise your dog each and every time he finds you, this will avoid him associating the game with merely receiving a treat. For those of you who believe they have a little dog genius on their hands, try playing this game the other way round.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

separation anxiety

2011-05-10T07:49:00.003-05:00

Today we're taking a look at a common canine complaint - the tricky issue of the dog who doesn't like to be left alone: separation anxiety.

Does this sound like you and your dog? You've had him since he was a puppy. He is a sweet dog, eager to please, and enjoys being around you and your whole family.

But lately, you've notice that he's become destructive around the house whenever he's left alone, even for just a few hours. You come home and the house looks like it was hit by a tornado - papers scattered everywhere, the trash can was knocked down, and your clothes were chewed into shreds.

Your dog may be suffering from separation anxiety, a problem common with many puppies and dogs. Separation anxiety is a panic disorder exhibited by a dog in the absence of his owner. It is the fear of being left alone that results in unwanted, destructive behaviors.

Dogs are social creatures. As puppies it is natural for them to get dependent and attached to their mother and littermates. This type of attachment is transferred on to you, his owner, when the puppy enters your life. This attachment results in distress whenever the dog is left alone in the house, which is the most common cause of separation anxiety.

Signs Of Separation Anxiety

Your dog could be suffering from separation anxiety if he displays any of the following signs: Destructiveness; excessive crying, barking, howling, whining, house soiling, pacing, depression, self mutilation, excessive salivation, hyperactivity, and scratching or chewing at walls, doors, windows, furniture, and other objects when you're not with him.

But how would you know if you weren't with him?

Sometimes it's good to try and find a vantage point to observe how your dog behaves when you're not there, somewhere where you can see him but he can't see you. It might just blow your mind how your dog behaves when he thinks you've gone.

Causes Of Separation Anxiety

There are many causes for separation anxiety in dogs. Some were developed with experiences they had before the dog ever became part of your family, such as loss or abandonment of previous owner.

Below are six other causes of separation anxiety in dogs:

1. A traumatic experience such as an injury, thunderstorm, or an alarm system going off that happened while you were gone.
2. A loss or addition of a family member.
3. Premature separation from its mother and littermates.
4. Having a new pet in the house and spending a lot of time with that new pet and less time with him.
5. A sudden change in schedule, lifestyle, or environment.
6. Changes that occur in older dogs, both physiologically and mentally, that results from ageing.

All of these things can cause or intensify feelings of stress and anxiety in many dogs. They can manifest in many different ways but one of the most common is separation anxiety.

So, how do we improve our dog's confidence and help them to relax when we're not there?

As we've already touched on, separation anxiety occurs when dogs feel frightened and distressed at the absence of their owner. This type of attachment problem can be mild or severe. A mild case is often exhibited when the dog is pacing, over-grooming, and panting, whereas a severe case of separation anxiety can be quite a challenge for the owner. The dog soils the house, cries nonstop, barks or howls, and destroys furniture and other objects around the house. Often times, the dog starts to show behaviours associated with separation anxiety after being left alone for only ten or fifteen minutes.

Here are five tips that can help.

1. Some dogs feel comfortable being confined to a smaller space ssuch as a crate or a small gated area of the house, while others feel comfortable when in a kennel outdoors (it really depends on the individual dog but it is something you should be aware of) If your dog starts to feel agitated when crated, take him out and do not try to force it because it can only make matters worse. If your dog takes well to the crate, you could have found a quick, easy solution to the problem.

2. In some cases, confining your dog to a small area where he has viewing access to the outside world is enough to make him feel comfortable and eliminate separation anxiety. You can place his crate or bed in front of a sliding glass door or a clear window. Unhelpfully, having a view of the outside world can make some dogs even worse! Again, it's time for testing.

3. Many dogs suffer from separation anxiety because of boredom. Find a job that your dog can do. Teach him how to play "Find it" - a game that he can play by himself. To play this game, you must hide his favorite bones or stuffed treats where he can find them. To keep him busy, use three or five bones or treats (depending on how long you'll be gone). Here's a really quick tip that has a very high success rate, I do it with my dogs: Get some sugarfree sugar puffs (sounds like a contradiction but trust me, they exist and you don't want your dog getting fat). Create a routine about when you're going out so your dog understands what's going on - it will help them if they are confused and expect you may have gone out for a moment or two and may have forgoten them. As you are leaving, grab a fistful of sugar free sugar puffs and start to scatter them in the area where the dog will be staying, encourage them to hunt and find, scatter them far and wide and if you have a dog who likes hunting for treats, this action will not only keep them busy but it can also become your 'signal' that you are going out for a while. After a short period, the dog will associate your going out with them getting a hunting game and, in many cases, they'll start to actually get excited about you leaving!

4. Another way to fight boredom is to provide your dog with plenty of toys. Rotate the toys so he will not get tired of playing with them. Playing, chewing, chasing, and hunting for his toys or treats has the power to cause your dog utilize his natural canine instincts while keeping him occupied for hours.

5. Leave the television on or play a soft, relaxing music. Researches have shown that soft, classical music relaxes dogs. Pick something that you listen to when you are at home, so your pet doesn't relate the music to your absence. Background noise can help to disguise any sounds from the outside world which may startle your dog or disturb them, causing them to bark or get stressed.

Best of luck.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

National Pet First Aid Awareness Month

2011-04-15T10:55:00.002-05:00

In honor of National Pet First Aid Awareness Month, the leader in pet care and services, Urban Out Sitters and Pet Expert Joseph Giannini reminds pet parents that as the seasons change, so do dangers for the family pet. Before looking forward to warm summer weather, springtime often brings out the worst in Mother Nature with tornados, flooding and more. Spring is also a time for new blooms and buzzing bees. Did you know that Easter Lilies are toxic for cats? Pet parents need to be mindful of certain hazards that may have a devastating effect on their pet’s health. Pet Expert Joseph Giannini encourages pet parents to create a safety plan just in time for Pet First Aid Awareness Month this April.

“Pet First Aid is the immediate care given to a pet that has been injured or suddenly take ill. This includes home care and when necessary veterinary help. Knowing the skills and techniques of pet first aid can mean the difference between life and death; temporary and permanent disability; and expensive veterinarian bills and reasonable home care. According to the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) one-out-of-four more pets could be saved if just one basic pet first aid skill or technique was applied prior to receiving veterinary care.”

“We want to encourage pet parents to plan ahead for possible pet emergencies by taking small steps that could result in quicker response times during a potential dangerous situation. For example, keeping a pet first aid kit on hand and making sure pet parents understand how to care an injured pet until the pet is transported to a local emergency veterinarian are both important” said Giannini, Owner of Urban Out Sitters.

“Because there are only little variances between human and animal mechanisms of injury, pet parents can provide basic first aid for injuries and ailments like bruise and fractures or heat stroke and respiratory distress. Just like us, most incidents can be addressed using a first aid skill” according to Giannini. He says initial response and care is vital. “You are your pet’s paramedic during a health related emergency until your pet is transported to the veterinarian. Panic and doubt are not going to help your pet and can place you in danger” notes Giannini.

Giannini and Urban Out Sitters highly recommends pet parents keep important life saving phone numbers both in their cell phone registry and displayed on paper copy in a prominent well travelled area of the residence and vehicle. Important numbers include their primary veterinarian as well as their emergency veterinarian's phone number, the ASPCA Poison Control Center Number (888) 426-4435 and the Regular Poison Control Number (800) 222-1222.

From toxic plants to natural weather occurrences, the challenges in pet safety are most easily managed if pet parents take a lesson from Giannini and prepare for potential emergencies.

As a pet owner and pet care professionals we owe it to the pets in our life to be trained in these life-saving skills. To gain the skills of pet CPR, first aid and care, it is recommended you successfully complete a Pet First Aid class taught by a properly trained instructor. The skills and techniques of a pet first aid and care training should include but not be limited to: restraint and muzzling, CPR, rescue breathing, choking management, heat injuries (1st, 2nd, 3rd degree burns and heat stroke), cold injuries (frost bite and hypothermia), shock management, bleeding injuries and more.

Pet Expert, Joseph Giannini, is the Founder and Owner of Urban Out Sitters, Chicago’s premiere location for pet care offering luxury doggie daycare, dog walking, pet sitting and more. Urban Out Sitters has two locations across the city and provides Pet Hotel and Pet Taxi services for their Chicago clientele. Joe has 10 years experience working in the pet industry and cares for over 120 dogs a day! Joe is also Pet First Aid and CPR Certified by the American Red Cross and is a Professional Groomer, trained through The Academy of Dog Grooming Arts.

As an Animal Advocate, Joe works with the Chicago Police Department and The Dog Advisory Work Group (D.A.W.G) to protect pets from abusive owners. D.A.W.G is a court advocacy organization dedicated to ensuring the humane treatment of animals. Joe has worked with The Anti-Cruelty Society and Chicago’s Animal Control and is currently partnering with the Lakeshore Animal Shelter providing free no-kill boarding for lost, stray and unwanted pets throughout the Chicago city area.

Joe Giannini host’s a LIVE 30-minute weekly pet show on Channel 19’s CAN-TV. He’s a regular media commentator and appears regularly on WCIU. Joe has also been featured on the CW, in Chicago Tribune, Chicago Sun-Times and more! His business, Urban Out Sitters was voted Best Doggie Daycare & Pet Hotel by Chicago Magazine’s “Best Of” and has been profiled in Crain’s Chicago Business.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Introducing Your New Dog to Other Dogs

2011-03-24T11:00:00.000-05:00

Introducing Your New Dog to Other Dogs

Before bringing a new dog home, be sure all animals are healthy, have current vaccinations and test negative for parasites. Realize that even if the dogs met successfully on neutral turf, things are different when you bring a new dog home. Make sure there's another person at the homecoming so the dogs can meet on-leash outside.

I use the Gentle Leader head collars; my clients call them power steering for dogs. They make a dog feel more calm and safe. The dog slows down and learns quicker. [Particularly for strong dogs] I have an additional collar on for back-up; I attach the leash to both the head halter and the training collar.

Prior to the introduction, leash-walk the new dog outside. Then bring out the other dog(s) on leash, preferably with choke/slip collars to provide full control. Make sure you are relaxed, so you don't telegraph anxiety through the leash. Avoid keeping the collar pulled tight, since "restraint frustration" elevates tension and the risk of aggression. The dogs will be more relaxed knowing they have some room to maneuver. Watch carefully so you can make a leash correction if necessary.

Make the meeting fun with a walk and some treats (timed to reward good, relaxed behavior). Introduce gradually, making sure the animals are calm. Pet the resident dog, assuring that everything's OK. If it's not OK, suspend introductions and resume the walk. Be careful to reward only good behavior.

Keep the dogs within sight of each other. (For more than two dogs, introduce each to the newcomer one at a time.) If the animals are receptive to each other, praise each one and reward them with treats and petting to show that good things happen when they are together. If there is a negative reaction, move back to the distance at which neither reacted. Watch for warning signs such as fur raised on the back, staring or stiffening up. If one dog reacts aggressively, don't punish the aggressor; instead, take him in a neutral or less valued area to settle down and ignore him. If both dogs act aggressively, remove each to different, neutral areas. Try re-introducing later in the day.

It is essential to use a positive vocal tone at any meeting with another animal or person. People have a tendency to be silent and not express happiness or enthusiasm - yet that is exactly what the dogs need to hear. They need to know that their leaders are confident.

When correcting unacceptable behavior, timing is critical. Do not wait for the lunge; at the first hint of aggression, such as a stare, correct with a firm "No" and a quick (but not punishing) leash correction, and redirect the dog's attention to you. You must keep control at all times and show the dogs YOU are the alpha. Don't be alarmed if they don't warm up to each other immediately. Either dog may engage in aggressive posturing, barking, marking, housetraining accidents, and possessiveness over toys and people. (If this persists beyond a week or two, consult a specialist.)

When the dogs come inside, a fight could break out, so leave the leashes on for quick control if needed. Keep all toys and treats out of sight until everyone is comfortable. An added advantage to having two people present when introducing dogs is that one can focus on praising each one. However, if you're alone, you can tie one dog's leash to a doorknob or sofa leg at a length that allows the animals to sniff each other at a safe range.

The resident dog might be insecure about his place in the pack. Reassure him, but do not let him misbehave or mistreat the newcomer. Resist the temptation to spoil either dog or to allow bad habits you'll have to break later. Trainers often advise to greet, pet, feed and play with the senior dog first.

The more socialized both dogs are, the less time it will take for them to become friendly. Try not to be nervous, or your dogs may sense the tension and even defend you from the other dog. To avoid injuries, keep new pets separate from others when you aren't able to supervise. (Some owners find it's best to continue to keep dogs separated at mealtime, and to keep toys off the floor, to prevent fights.) You might crate the newcomer in a family area. Avoid keeping him in a highly coveted area, such as near the other pets' food bowls.

Acclimation can take days or weeks. Be sure to give each pet 10 or 15 minutes of quality time alone with you each day - play, brush, massage, practice rewardable skills. Once the animals react well to each other, remove the leashes. Keep watch, and keep a spray bottle or whistle on hand to interrupt the pets if they begin to stare or otherwise misbehave. Continue rewarding good behavior with praise and kibble. Always let your dogs know what you expect of them, and they'll be responsive instead of confused.

Socialize your dog. Start when she is a young puppy, so she feels at ease with other people and animals. Expose your dog to a variety of situations gradually and under controlled circumstances. Be cautious; don't put your dog in a position where she feels threatened. Teach her to not be nervous in these situations.

Socialization is critical - and is more than exposing the dog to new experiences. The owner must act as leader in all situations, as the dog will be gauging the owner's reactions. Remain confident and relaxed, which also allows you to be sensitive to cues from the dog. If a dog does not sense his person can handle a situation, he may try to take charge or react in the only way he knows how - which might be barking, growling, lunging or trying to bite in an attempt to control the environment.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Travel with Pets -- Packing, Preparation and Other Trip Tips

2011-03-16T15:37:00.001-05:00

Dog Tip: Travel with Pets -- Packing, Preparation and Other Trip Tips

* Whether you are taking your pet or boarding her, make sure all vaccinations are up to date. Kennels typically require a bordatella (kennel cough) vaccine to be given at least two weeks in advance of boarding. Even if you are taking your dog on your trip, you may have to board her unexpectedly. So that's another reason to keep your dog is up-to-date on vaccinations.

* Some areas have a higher incidence of Lyme disease-carrying ticks than others. Especially if you're camping and hiking with your dog, get a Lyme vaccination well in advance of your trip.

* Bring a copy of medical records, including rabies certificate.

* Apply flea and tick preventative to your dog.

* Pack any medications needed, including heartworm and other preventives.

* Be sure your pet always wears a well-fitted collar and ID tag with accurate contact information. It is important that the i.d. tag include an easily accessible number, such as your cell phone. When lodging out of town, prepare a temporary tag with the address and number of your travel quarters. Use waterproof tape and a waterproof marker to change your phone number as you travel.

* Pack several gallons of bottled water for you and your dog. This will help you avoid bacterial contamination while traveling, since water quality varies from place to place. If you run down to the last half gallon, begin mixing in equal parts with the water supply at your destination. If your pet is especially sensitive, use distilled water. Keep water in the car to prevent dehydration.

* Also bring water bottles that you can use when you hike or walk around town with your dog.

* Food. If you are not sure your brand of food will be available at your destination and along the way, or if you feed a special diet, bring enough food for the whole trip. If you feed canned food, bring a can opener and spoon.

* Take familiar things from your home that will comfort your pet. Bring along favorite chewies, toys, even the pet's bedding.

* Bring photos of your pet in case he escapes and you need to make "lost pet" posters. Store the pictures in resealable plastic bags. Also, pack a photo of family members with the pet in case you need additional proof that the pet is yours.

* Pack a sturdy leash and an extra collar. Whether or not your destination has a leash law, always keep your dog on leash for his safety and your peace of mind.

* Food and water bowls. Plus a portable water bowl or bottle for use when away from your lodging.

* Label pet belongings with destination information such as hotel name and phone number.

* Some dogs sunburn around their nose, ears and other areas. So pack sun protection cream for the dog.

* Brush or comb.

* Baby wipes or moist towelettes to wipe off paws. Also useful for cleaning ears and other body parts.

* Tweezers to remove ticks from skin and foreign objects from fur or paws.

* Poop bags.

* Towels, carpet cleaner, disinfectant spray, and trash bags for accidents.

* Keep a first aid kit close to the driver's seat. Include rolled gauze and tape to use as a muzzle in case you need to treat a wound or injury. Also use gauze to stabilize the joint above and below a possibly injured joint, and to stem any bleeding. You can also use a towel.

* Flashlight for walking at night.

* Lint and hair remover.

* Spread a blanket or sheet on the back seat of your car or beneath the pet carrier to make clean-up easier.

* Bring old sheets or bedspreads to cover bedding and furniture at your destination.

* Bring a roomy fanny pack or other hands-free pack or pouch to hold your keys, wallet, baggies and from which you can clip water bottles. This helps you keep your hands free to hold the dog's leash securely.

* Bag Balm or Vaseline. These are good for soothing dog paws after hiking in the country or on city streets. Beware of hot pavement, which can injure your dog's paws.

* Bring a crate. Folding crates are most convenient, although some folks prefer airline crates for certain situations. Even if your dog behaves beautifully at home, he may be nervous in a new place and cause damage. Another advantage of a crate is that the dog typically will feel more secure in it. If you have not used a crate before, gradually accustom your dog to the crate at home, well before your trip. See the Tips on the PAW website about using crates. For cats, use carriers.

* Practice crating your dog before leaving on your trip. Crate at family member's house, then at a friend's house, then other places, so your dog learns to be calm when you're visiting other places.

* A few cities and counties in the U.S. have dog breed restrictions, such as those aimed at pit bulls, Rottweilers and other breeds, so check before you visit a destination. Usually, you can do this by doing a web search with a combination of key words such as the breed name and city or county.

* If you are traveling across the nation's borders, you typically need a health certificate, so make plans in advance of your trip. A few places may require proof of a rabies vaccination within the past 12 months, so check with the health department at your destination city. You can usually get the info by doing a web search.

* When traveling, bring along Rescue Remedy, which is a Bach flower essence available in most health food stores. This gentle, natural stress reducing liquid can often help both people and animals recover from injury, fright, illness, travel fatigue and irritation. Put a drop in your water bottle and in their water. To help prevent travel sickness, a common dosage is four drops in the mouth about ten hours before the trip, repeating every four hours as needed. For stressed or injured animals, rub a drop on their ear or put a drop on the towel in their crate or carrier. Flower essences can be used along with conventional medicines. Another safe, nontoxic Rescue Remedy-like product is Animal Emergency Trauma Solution, available from www.greenhopeessences.com, where you can also get Flee Free to combat fleas nontoxically. Other flower essence sources include anaflora.com and perelandra-ltd.com.

On the Road:

* Pack ice chips or cubes when driving or walking. This makes a tasty treat for your dog, plus it melts down into water along the way.

* Driving with your dog? Be sure to see the important and handy car tips at http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_CarSafety.html

* Let your dog relieve himself before you visit public places and events...and do not bring your dog to places unless you know dogs are allowed. Many resorts do not allow dogs on the beaches at all during tourist season, so look for posted signs. And remember to carry poop bags at all times -- nature will call more frequently when on the road and in unfamiliar places.

* Warning: Public and hotel fountains often contain antifreeze, which is poisonous to pets.

* Looking for a local petsitter or boarding kennel in your travel destination, so that you can spend the day sight-seeing pet-free? Sources include:

National Association of Professional Petsitters
800-296-PETS
www.petsitters.org

Pet Sitters International
800-268-SITS
www.petsit.com

...or the most of the websites listed below under web resources.

Hotels, Motels and Lodging with Pets:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_Lodging.php

Web resources for traveling with pets, including pet-friendly lodging, campgrounds and parks, local vets and animal hospitals, local boarding kennels, and more:

http://www.choicehotels.com/en/pet-friendly-hotels
http://www.petswelcome.com
http://www.dogfriendly.com
http://www.takeyourpet.com
http://www.travelpets.com
http://www.petsonthego.com
http://www.dogtravelcompany.net
http://www.petsit.com
http://www.petsitters.org
http://www.mapquest.com
http://www.travelpet.com
http://www.bringyourpet.com

Lodging worldwide and free Bone Voyage newsletter
http://www.Pettravel.com

Europe lodging that allows pets
http://www.hotdogholidays.com

DogGone bimonthly newsletter
http://www.doggonefun.com

Print publications:
Vacationing With Your Pet by Eileen Barish
AAA's Traveling With Your Pet
Mobil's On the Road With Your Pet

http://www.abka.com

Hiking, Camping and Swimming with your Dog:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_Hiking.php

Car Trips and Car Safety:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_CarSafety.php

ASPCA and Animal Planet Trip Tips:
http://www.aspca.org
212-876-7700

Petsitters and Boarding Kennels:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_Petsitter.php

Air Travel with Pets:

Companion Air
Companion Air is a new airline that is pet-friendly. Animals travel in the cabin in a special section in secure kennels, and their people can visit them during the flight. Check out: http://www.companionAir.com

Pro Pet Transports
Nationwide door to door ground transport of pets
www.pro-pet-transports.com
1-866-ARE-PETS

ASPCA Air Travel Tips
http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=traveltips
212-876-7700

Air Transport Association
http://www.airlines.org/public/publications/display1.asp?nid=926
800-497-3326

USDA/Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/oa/pubs/bproglist.html
800-545-USDA

First Aid Kit and Guidance:
Keep a pet First Aid Kit in your home and car. Take the one you keep in your car with you on trips with your pet. This webpage lists items to include:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_FirstAid.php

CPR and Mouth-to-Snout Resuscitation:
Print these life-saving brochures to have on hand!
http://members.aol.com/henryhbk/acpr.html
http://www.rescuecritters.com/cpr.html

When traveling, you can find a nearby veterinarian using AAHA's Animal Hospital Locator:
http://www.healthypet.com/hospital_search.aspx

For emergencies, call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center 24-hour hotline at 1-888-4-ANI-HELP

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At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Dogs At Daycare

2011-01-28T07:56:00.000-06:00

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Health Care

2010-08-15T12:20:00.000-05:00

Health Care

When to go to the veterinarian:
Begin a relationship with a vet now, before you need one in a panic. Bring your medical records. While your rescue dog should be current on shots, altered, and heartworm-tested, you still need to buy heartworm preventative, and you may want your vet to thoroughly examine your new dog. See your vet when a problem arises or if your dog continues to have housetraining accidents.

Medical checklist:

Keep up on all shots.

Give heartworm preventative year-round in this area. Heartworm disease is deadly.

Regularly check between toes for debris.

Check and clean ears once a week.

Red eyes can mean conjunctivitis or allergies.

If a dog pays excessive attention to his anal area, he may have parasites. See your vet.

Ask your vet for flea prevention recommendations. Some brands contain tick control too.

Get a dog tooth brush and toothpaste and brush at least 4 times a week.
Heartworm disease & prevention:
Heartworms are deadly parasites transmitted by mosquitoes. The larvae lodge, grow and reproduce in the heart, eventually causing lung, liver and kidney failure and death. By the time symptoms such as lethargy and shortness of breath emerge, the dog has probably suffered organ damage. This disease has become much more common in recent years and can be contracted year-round. Treatment is very hard on the dog. Heartworm disease is easily prevented with monthly pills available from your vet. Keep dogs on preventative year-round. The dog must have a blood test to make sure he is not already infected.

Cleaning your dog's ears:
If dirt, wax and excess moisture are not routinely removed, ear problems can result. Here's how to clean your dog's ears at least once a week to keep them healthy:

Make a solution of 1/2 white vinegar and 1/2 lukewarm water.

Pour the solution into the ear.

Gently massage the base of the ear to distribute the solution.

Put a cotton ball over your fingertip and wipe the outer ear clean.

Let your dog shake out the excess solution.

Clean the ear again with a clean, dry cotton ball. Repeat as needed.
When to visit the vet: Objects stuck in the ear...redness or swelling...excessive tenderness, scratching, head-shaking... debris, discharge or foul odor.

Home Cure: After a bout of diarrhea, make some rice, adding extra water. Stop cooking before all of the water gets absorbed into the rice. Skim the starchy water off the top, and feed that liquid to your dog.

Flea/tick control products:
Products include topical liquids applied every 30-90 days and monthly oral tablets. Some kills adult fleas and ticks, some keep flea eggs from hatching, some combine heartworm preventative. As your vet for recommendations

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Common Behavior & Behavioral Problems

2010-08-14T12:22:00.000-05:00

Common Behavior & Behavioral Problems

"Undesirable behavior" is in the eye of the beholder. Many "bad habits" (chewing, mouthing, digging, jumping, chasing, barking) are natural, normal behaviors for a dog. But you can control and replace them with desirable behavior by taking the time to work with your dog. Give your dog opportunities to do something you can reward.

It may take a few weeks before you can train and trust your dog with free run of the house. Until then, when you cannot supervise him, confine him in a safe place such as a crate or baby-gated kitchen. Leave him toys to play with. Remove trash cans or secure trash can lids from the area.

Activity needs. Most often, there is nothing wrong with reportedly hyperactive dogs. Dogs need attention and exercise - and when people don't give them enough, the dog has to do something with that excess energy. By the way, dogs don't do things out of spite, which is a human concept. They do things that, right or wrong, seem like ways to cope.

It helps to determine the source of unwanted behavior. It often stems from the frustration of being alone, since dogs are social animals. If you leave your dog for long hours on workdays, consider doggie daycare or a mid-day dog walker. In some cases, misbehavior results from stress between the human members of the home, or another environmental change such as the arrival of a new household member. Lastly, a change in diet may be needed.

A puppy or dog has no memory of recent activities. So unless you catch him in the act of chewing or doing something unacceptable, scolding won't help.

Chewing. Chewing is how young dogs explore their environments and mature dogs relieve stress. Move chewable objects out of reach. Take up throw rugs. Shield or hide power cords. Spray Bitter Apple on furniture legs and wood trim. Make sure your dog always has access to his own chew toys. But limit the number of toys you give your dog, or he'll think nearly everything is fair game. Make a conscious effort to reward your dog for playing with the right toys. In addition, exercise your dog, and teach him obedience commands to redirect his energy.

When you catch him chewing something off-limits, direct him to "leave it," "drop it" or "out." This requires that you first teach your dog this command using positive reinforcement. When the dog drops the item, praise lavishly and give him an acceptable substitute to chew.

Teaching your dog to release items from his mouth. Put on a training collar and leash before a play session. Give him a favorite toy. Then, with the leash in your left hand (keep the training collar slack), command "drop it" - and immediately take the item from his mouth. Praise him with "good dog!" or "good drop!"

If your dog locks eyes or bares teeth, quickly yank the training collar once, then release. If he drops the item, praise him enthusiastically. If he displays aggression, get some of the good training books recommended later in this guide and enlist the help of a professional. Do not smack your dog; he will interpret this as a threat and his instinct will be to bite.

Barking. First, realize that some breeds were bred to bark. Next, figure out the key triggers of your dog's barking. Perhaps it's the mail carrier, children getting off the school bus, the neighbor coming out to mow his lawn, or daily joggers. As with many dog training issues, aim to reduce the opportunities as well as the incentives to misbehave.

If trigger events occur outside, bring him indoors before the triggers appear. He'll be less likely to bark when shielded from the opportunity. When he barks and the targets bypass or leave your property, this reinforces the barking behavior - and your dog figures he did his job well.

If you can't avoid the trigger events, be prepared to re-focus his attention on you. You can do this by using small treats and praise. Or before he focuses on the target for his barking, give a sharp, immediate leash correction. Re-direct his attention to you. Try to catch and stop him before he emits his first bark. Give the correction and command "no!" or "quiet!" When he attends to you, immediately praise him verbally and use tidbits to reinforce the praise. Keep this up and he will learn it is more pleasant not to bark.

The key is to break the barking cycle. To the dog, this cycle is: "Detect trigger person/event ... barkbarkbark...feel good and useful...the trigger leaves...my barking works great...I'll do that again!"

I use "no" as the disengage word for every behavior that is undesirable so the dog develops a clear association.
- Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor

Jumping. Jumping and mounting are often behaviors dogs choose to seek a higher rank in the pack; sometimes they just jump out of excitement. Keep people from exciting your dog to the point of jumping up, barking or nipping. Often, jumping can be discouraged by simply ignoring the dog until he settles down. Just turn and walk away. You also can carry tidbits, and provide a treat and attention only when the dog sits calmly on command.

You can correct your dog's bad behaviors by providing leadership, clarifying his subordinate role in the pack - and by training using humane methods. And remember: breaking your dog of bad habits is much harder than training him the right way the first time.

Out in the yard. Never leave a dog outside unattended, or overnight. Not only does this practice endanger your dog and subject you to legal liability, it too often leads to a nervous, troubled dog. Many dogs given up for "behavioral problems" had been kept outdoors or in basements. Also, dogs left outside dig holes or find a way under, over or through the fence. Even if your dog is not an escape artist, it helps to be there to correct him when he starts the self-rewarding act of digging.

Dogs want to be with their pack, and get lonely, bored and in trouble when alone. When you're not home, leave the dog in an area where the family spends a lot of time. You can start by confining him in a crate or with babygates until you've taught him good house manners.

Most dogs are time- vs. space-intensive. They'd rather have an owner to play with than a yard to play in. Running around a yard provides physical stimulation, but dogs also need the mental stimulation of active companionship with their people.

Furniture-hogging. Decide on the furniture and other house rules, then all family members must abide by the decisions. Consistency is key to training. To teach your dog to stay off the furniture, snap a long leash to his collar when you are home (and leave it on only when you are in the same room). Use a quick leash correction as soon as he tries to hop up. He'll get the message quickly. Many trainers advise that dogs not be allowed on furniture because the elevated position can give a dog the sense that he is the alpha and can lead to aggressive displays. Instead, give dogs their own comfy beds and crates.

To keep dogs off furniture when you're not home, place or tape balloons on the furniture - dogs don't like popping sounds. You can also use large-size bubble wrap.

New dogs can't get into trouble if they are on leash in the house. It is more humane and easier to stop bad habits before they start, then to change them after they learn something naughty. Maggie was on leash indoors when with me during [the period of] her obedience training. At the computer, I put the handle of the leash around one ankle. In the kitchen, the leash handle went on a cupboard knob.
It sounds cumbersome but you get used to it. Now she follows me from room to room in the house on her own volition. Just make sure that when you leave your dog alone, even for a minute, you remove the leash for safety reasons.
- Anna Marchy, trainer-in-training and adoptive mother of Maggie the pit bull

Bonding and insecurities. At first, your dog may be shy or needy. If he continues to cling to just one family member after the transition period, help him work through this problem. Using treats and vocal praise, gradually acclimate him to being near other family members. Have the other people do the feeding, walking and petting, so he associates them with positive, safe experiences.

Give plenty of vocal support and vocal encouragement! Don't be silent around a "shy" dog. Associate a lot of positives to things that may be new to him.
- Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor

Set up situations so that your dog can win if she acts appropriately. Since dogs only use what works for them, you need to show her that to get what she wants [such as scaring off an approaching dog], what normally worked for her in the past [growling, lunging] just won't work anymore. This is why I let dogs freak out in class. It's all part of learning. The dog will freak out for about 15 minutes, then realize that nothing is happening - that everyone is ignoring her! Then she switches to a different behavior to see if the new one will work.
A dog may go through an entire bag of tricks in hopes of a reward. I just wait for the appropriate behavior (this is "shaping behavior.") If the dog accidentally looks at you, there's your opportunity to give a treat. I want the dog to know she's on the right track - and to learn the pattern so well that when she sees another dog, she immediately looks at me for a treat.
- Cinimon Clark, positive-method trainer/behavior counselor

Nipping and biting. When young dogs gnaw and nip, people often excuse this as "puppy behavior." But it's unacceptable behavior that will continue, and grow worse, if not corrected. Like a child, a dog will test the limits and to see who's boss. The root of a dog's biting may be in lack of early socialization, fear, dominance, confusion over his role in the pack, a health problem requiring a trip to the vet or a dietary imbalance. By reading books and consulting a professional, you can alter this behavior.

As the leader, you must set limits. Don't tell a dog not to do something, then send mixed signals that his bad behavior is cute. Consistently reward him when he obeys; correct him when he doesn't.
- Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor

If your dog tries to nip during play, command "no" and immediately stop playing. If the leash is on, you can give a correction if he doesn't comply. Turn his eyes to meet yours to emphasize the point. You must feel and convey a leadership role. As soon as he calms down, say "good dog." Use your dog's name when giving praise; don't use it when in the act of correcting. Giving your puppy or dog something to chew on instead of your hand can also work.

We had a major problem with mouthing after bringing Crop home from the shelter. I ended up with bruises on my arms and legs. Physical intervention (shaking a can of pennies, spraying bitter apple on my arms and legs) didn't work; he just became more excited like it was a game. A trainer solved the problem in one night.
When Crop came over and mouthed me, the trainer had me jump up in alarm, yell "ow" and run into another room and slam the door. Crop sat by the door. After 5 minutes Crop left the door, and the trainer had me rejoin her and my husband in the living room. We continued a conversation, ignoring Crop. He then came over and more softly mouthed me, as if to test the situation. I repeated the performance. He waited at the door, then went into his crate. I returned to the living room. Crop then came over and just put his mouth on me. I repeated the performance - and he never mouthed me indoors again.

When he tried it the next day in the back yard, I yelled "ow" and ran inside, set the timer for 3 minutes and then went back out. He never mouthed me again. I wanted to relay this story because it fundamentally changed my relationship with Crop.
- Cheryl Bailey, adoptive mother of Crop, a pit bull mix

Four keys to raising a happy dog:
1. Train the dog well so that he understands what a command word means, what behaviors are rewarded, and what behaviors result in being corrected.
2. Gain the dog's respect by being consistent in your behavior and commands. A dog looks to us for leadership because he respects us, not because he fears us, or only because we give him treats.
3. Accustom the dog to a consistent way of living. Avoid indulging in an excessive amount of spoiling behaviors. Too many privileges will give the dog the impression that he is in charge.
4. Use caution when using crates for time-outs. A crate should not be used in a way that the dog may perceive as punishment. Don't create a negative association. So don't put the dog in a crate while scolding him; calm down first. Make being in the crate a positive experience

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Who's Leading Who? Becoming the Leader

2010-08-13T12:23:00.000-05:00

Who's Leading Who? Becoming the Leader

Your dog nips when you try to take a toy from him...ignores your request to exit the couch...or yanks ahead on walks. If you feel like your dog is challenging authority, then he probably thinks he is the "alpha" of the home. He needs to be taught a new, well-defined pecking order - and a new, lower place in the family hierarchy - for everyone's welfare. He needs YOU to become his leader. Otherwise, he'll rebel, growl and possibly bite when faced with a challenge.

Dogs aren't looking for a democracy - they're looking for leaders. Dogs want to know their place in the family pack and what their people expected of them, otherwise they're stressed. Most often, an "aggression" problem is really a "stress and confusion" problem. If your dog tries to dominate you or someone else in your household, it's probably because he sees role confusion and responds by taking charge.

"Alpha" is an attitude. It is not achieved by force or punishment. Rather, it is earned through confident, authoritative, consistent behavior on the part of the owner, who we prefer to call the leader. Dogs can sense who's in charge immediately; they are continuously reading your body language and are aware each time their people don't enforce commands. Notice how most dogs watch a good obedience instructor - and how they seem to wait to be given direction. They express respect and interest, not fear.

Then notice how a good obedience instructor behaves. He or she will walk with confidence...stand up straight...use a firm tone of voice. And that voice expresses commands as a directive, not a question. ("Come...? Come on, come...?") The dog realizes this person makes the decisions.

Are you rewarding bad behavior? Anticipate and remove opportunities for undesirable behavior. Don't let your dog dash out the door, for the accompanying feelings of joy and freedom are self-rewarding. Don't leave food on the counter, because if the dog grabs a tasty sandwich, counter-surfing has just been reinforced.

For dogs, it's natural to try to control their world with their jaws. Natural, but unacceptable. We need to regain control by using our minds.

How to reverse roles and become leader of the pack:
Step one: no more freebies. From now on, your dog must behave in order to earn the good things in life - petting, treats, meals, walks around the block. These are rewards you can use as you reinforce the new rules of behavior.

Use petting, feeding and playing as rewards. Before setting down the food bowl, instruct your dog to "sit." Say it only once. He receives his food - and enthusiastic praise ("Good boy!) only when he sits calmly. Pogo-ing from a seated position does not count. No "sit," no reward. Put the bowl out of his reach and walk away. Try again later. In addition, if your mealtimes coincide with your dog's, prepare his food first, but place it out of reach. Then eat your meal first before setting down his bowl. The leader in a dog pack eats first.

Subordinate dogs lick and bow to dominant dogs as a gesture of respect. So when you're working to modify the behavior of a dominant, unruly dog, reserve petting to use as positive reinforcement. To receive attention, he must obey a command such as "sit." Praise and pet as soon as he complies. If he prods you for more attention, ignore him. The idea is to convey to him that you decide when to begin and stop petting. The same should apply to playing, feeding and going for walks.

Lead the way, literally and figuratively. Starting today, don't let the dog bolt ahead ofyou out the door or drag you on walks. Keep your dog on leash, instruct him to sit, cross the threshold first and don't let him out until he complies. If he tends to push through the dog as you open it, slam it shut each time his nose approaches the opening. After 5 or 6 repetitions, he'll start getting the idea, but you cannot lapse and let him barrel out in front of you or he will resume the bolting behavior. On walks, strive to keep him at a heel.

Stay on a higher level than your dominant dog. During the retraining period, don't sit down to pet or play on the floor with your dog. Pet and praise from a level above the dog's head. In addition, at least until the dog learns his place in the pack, keep him off your bed and other furniture. He should stay at floor-level. On a related note, when you and your dog eye each other, as a leader you should hold the stare longer until he averts his eyes.

Stop the jumping. For dogs are challenging their people, it is important to discourage jumping up, as it is a dominating behavior. Ignore the dog, or command "Off" or "No." When greeting, give attention and petting to the dog only when he sits. If you later want to teach your dog to jump up (or get on the couch with you), you can, but the behavior should be on your terms.

No more playing favorites. If the dog ignores or intimidates another member of the household, let that person be the one to feed and dispense treats to the dog for now. It's essential that everyone in your family practices the same techniques while retraining the dog. Like a child, if a dog finds someone he can dominate, he'll do it.

Control the games. Tell family and friends not to taunt, wrestle or play tug-of-war - these games encourage dogs to dominate physically and to use their teeth. The outcome of games determines who's dominant in a pack. Instead, play hide and seek with a prized toy or fetch. As leader, you must be the one who decides when to start and end the game. Stop playing before the dog loses interest.

Use a crate. The crate serves several important functions. It gives the dog a secure den to call his own - a place to retreat when he wants to relax. Keep the crate door open when you're home so that he can enter if he'd like. The crate also helps you establish a new routine during retraining. Work on training him to go into the crate willingly, on command. Don't take "no" for an answer. To make the crate a welcoming place, start by giving him treats for going in the crate and feeding him in this area. Before training sessions, keep him in the crate an hour so that when you let him out, it will be easier to focus all of his attention on you. This practice also conveys that you, the leader, decides when he goes in and exits the crate. If your dog barks in the crate, ignore him. Do not release him until he's quiet and somewhat relaxed.

Diligently work at retraining so you can reach a point when your dog looks to you as the leader who decides what to do and when. And when you reach that point, don't slack off. You and the other human members of your household should always exude leadership and confidence. In most cases, if a dog knows he can depend on you, he will respect you and his new position on the family totem pole.

Peeing and pooping indoors? Aggressive behavior? Hyperactivity? These can be symptoms of common health problems. For example, a dog with from worms may potty indoors. And a dog suffering from impacted anal glands or a leg injury might be in pain - and bite when someone tries to touch him. See a veterinarian to rule out a medical basis for behavioral problems.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Obedience Training & Owner Education

2010-08-12T12:24:00.000-05:00

Obedience Training & Owner Education

How important is obedience training and owner education? Essential! In fact, training is the biggest factor in whether an adoption succeeds or fails.

When we talk about training, we don't mean just having a trainer teach sit-stay-heel. We mean: YOU as the owner learning about dog behavior and training, and then YOU teaching and guiding your dog with patience and consistency so that he learns how to behave in a world of humans.

Dogs are pack animals who need leadership and rules to survive. Training will make your dog a trustworthy, socialized family member and forge a bond with your dog. Group classes teach you how to communicate with your dog despite distractions, and your dog will benefit from this socialization opportunity. The more socialized your dog, the more places you can go together. All family members should participate in training and agree on the rules, so they can teach the dog with consistency.

Think positive: Get recommendations for a class taught by a professional and based on positive reinforcement. Talk with the trainer and observe a class first to ensure the trainer uses humane techniques. The facility should be clean inside and outside.

Reward and repeat: If a dog does something that results in reward, he will do it most likely do it again. If you work with your dog each day and reward desired behavior, he will learn what is expected of him. If a dog doesn't learn, it means the owner didn't take enough time to teach and guide him. That is why so many dogs given up as "impossible" turn out to be model canine citizens when lucky enough to be adopted by someone else.

Be patient, firm and consistent: Reward good behavior. Small edible treats work well; always accompany them with verbal praise and positive body language. This is reward-based training.

Put down that newspaper! Punishment teaches a dog to avoid the lesson and distrust the teacher. For example, if you hit a dog who just urinated indoors, he'll learn not to potty when you're looking. Instead, reward good behavior, set up opportunities for the dog to learn and display good behavior - and disrupt or ignore bad behavior.

Timing is essential: Correct immediately when an unacceptable behavior occurs, not afterwards, then praise enthusiastically when your canine modifies her behavior.

By correct, we mean a quick yank of the leash, immediately letting it go slack. Some people find spraying water, shaking a can of pennies or tossing a small sack of rattling items (such as beans) effective in disrupting a behavior. However, these aversive techniques should be used to interrupt the dog's action, not as punishment - and they work best when you successfully conceal the fact you are causing the noise. It's better if the dog thinks his own action caused the surprise noise, spray or the landing of the rattle-sack. Never toss the sack at your dog, just in the vicinity of his misbehavior. And it's meaningless to throw it after the misbehavior occurs. Again, timing is key.

Ignoring can be the best medicine: Many modern-method trainers advise to ignore misbehavior such as jumping or grabbing at a sleeve. Instead, turn away - then praise and reward as soon as your dog calms down. Take that opportunity to instruct the dog to engage in a positive action such as "sit." Dogs thrive on attention; often dropping behaviors that don't pay off - while looking for ways to gain attention.

This is a big reason why young dog run off with shoes. (The other reasons being that they like things that carry their people's smells.) He knows that you'll come looking for the shoe, and give him attention. Most dogs, similar to children, prefer negative attention to no attention at all. So try to remove the opportunity by putting away shoes and your other personal items.

Anticipate and avoid opportunities for misbehavior. For example, don't let the dog dash out the door. Take the time to teach him to sit-stay away from the door when people are coming and going. Before you have taught him to be trustworthy, keep him in another room or crate.

Give a verbal command only once - if the dog doesn't respond immediately, firmly put her in the position of the command (i.e. "sit"). Repeating commands ("sit, sit, come on, sit, sit, SIT...") means the dog has not learned "sit" means sit.

And don't issue a command unless you are in a position to enforce it. For example, don't say "come" unless you have a long-line attached to guide him to you if your dog is not yet reliably complying. If you don't enforce a command, you are teaching the dog that listening is optional.

Another common pitfall is combining commands. "Sit," "down" and "come" are distinct and important commands. "Sit-down" and "come on sit" aren't. Be clear.

Once you have your dog reliably responding to a command, start practicing the command in situations with distractions, recommends trainer Eric Lundquist. When you and your dog have accomplished that level of difficulty, it's time to generalize the response to other locations and people. For example, your dog may be great at sit-stays in your home. Now take him outside with several neighbors present.

Always praise a dog for coming to you. Never correct, scold or punish a dog when he comes to you, even if the response is delayed or it was preceded by something naughty.

Learn everything you can - it's worth every penny and every minute because your whole family will benefit. Each dog is different, so it may take more than one approach to solve a problem.

Remember: obedience class is more for you than the dog. It teaches you to train your dog. It teaches you how to be alpha, how to gain your dog's respect and obedience, and how to help your dog to live in the human world.

All family members who are old enough to interact with the dog should participate in training. Obedience commands need to be practiced and incorporated into your daily life. Certain commands, like "down-stay," can be invaluable in the house and a life-saver when out in public.

Practicing obedience also gives dogs a terrific outlet for their physical and mental energy. A well- trained dog can go more places with you. And a dog who's secure in his place in the family pack is happy to let his human be the leader.

You can teach a young dog new tricks. Start teaching your puppy simple commands like sit and stay. Keep your training periods short and fun, using lots of praise and treats. Work on one command at a time and end the session when the pup has successfully completed a command. Puppy kindergarten classes for dogs under six months of age are highly recommended for early socialization with strangers and other dogs.
The first six months are critical in shaping the relationship between puppy and family. It will take time, knowledge and persistence to repair a relationship-gone-wrong. While it's easy to blame the puppy or the breed, the truth is that almost any dog can be adjust to almost any family if the owners spend make the daily effort during the first six months.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Summer Care Tips for You and Your Pets

2010-08-11T08:56:00.000-05:00

Summer Care Tips for You and Your Pets

Summer is a time for both you and your pet to enjoy the sunshine and outdoors, but along with the fun, the season also offers up situations that can endanger your pet. By taking precautions, you can decrease the chance that disaster will happen. The HSUS offers these tips for pet owners to keep their furry friends safe this summer.

Never Leave Your Pet in the Car

In nice weather you may be tempted to take your pet with you in the car while you travel or do errands. But during warm weather, the inside of your car can reach 120 degrees in a matter of minutes, even if you're parked in the shade. This can mean real trouble for your companion animals left in the car.

Dogs and cats can't perspire and can only dispel heat by panting and through the pads of their feet. Pets who are left in hot cars even briefly can suffer from heat exhaustion, heat stroke, brain damage, and can even die. Don't think that just because you'll be gone "just a minute" that your pet will be safe while you're gone; even an air-conditioned car with the motor off isn't healthy for your pet.

To avoid any chance that your pet will succumb to the heat of a car this summer, be sure to play it safe by leaving your pet cool and refreshed at home while you're on the road. And if you do happen to see a pet in a car alone during the hot summer months, alert the management of the store where the car is parked. If the owner does not return promptly, call local animal control or the police department immediately.

Don't Put Your Pet In the Back of a Truck

It is very dangerous, and in some states illegal, to drive with a dog in the back of a pick-up truck. Not only can flying debris cause serious injury, but a dog may be unintentionally thrown into traffic if the driver suddenly hits the brakes, swerves, or is hit by another car. Dogs should ride either in the cab (in a crate or wearing a seat belt harness designed for dogs) or in a secured crate in the bed of the truck.

Watch Out For Fertilizers and Deadly Plants

Summer is often a time when people fertilize their lawns and work in their gardens. But beware: Plant food, fertilizer, and insecticides can be fatal if your pet ingests them. In addition, more than 700 plants can produce physiologically active or toxic substances in sufficient amounts to cause harmful effects in animals.

Stay Bite-FreeWith people and dogs spending more time outside, dog bites are likely to increase in the summer months. Spaying or neutering your dog reduces the likelihood that he will bite and provides many other health benefits.

Pet Care 101

Make sure your pet is always wearing a collar and identification tag. If you are separated from your pet, an ID tag may very well be his or her ticket home.

Check with your veterinarian to see if your pets should be taking heartworm prevention medication. Heartworm disease, which is transmitted by mosquitoes, can be fatal in both dogs and cats. Another summertime threat is fleas and ticks. Use only flea and tick treatments recommended by your veterinarian. Some over-the-counter flea and tick products can be toxic, even when used according to instructions.

Water Wisdom

Pets and pools can equal disaster. Prevent free access to pools and always supervise a pet in a pool. Provide plenty of water and shade for your pets while they're enjoying the great outdoors so they can stay cool.

Travel Tips

If you plan on traveling with your pet during the summer, take the time to prepare for your furry friends in advance. Many airlines have summer pet embargoes, and most trains and ships do not allow pets other than service animals. The HSUS has information on traveling with your pet that may make the difference between a pleasant trip and a vacation nightmare.

If You Can't Stand the Heat...

Pets need exercise even when it is hot, but extra care needs to be taken with older dogs, short-nosed dogs, and those with thick coats. On very hot days, limit exercise to early morning or evening hours. Keep in mind that asphalt gets very hot and can burn your pet's paws. Pets can get sunburned too, and your pet may require sunscreen on his or her nose and ear tips. Pets with light-colored noses or light-colored fur on their ears are particularly vulnerable to sunburn and skin cancer.

Your pet can suffer from heat exhaustion and heat stroke. These conditions are very serious and could cause your pet to die. You should be aware of the signs of heat stress, which could include heavy panting, glazed eyes, a rapid pulse, unsteadiness, a staggering gait, vomiting, or a deep red or purple tongue.

If your pet does become overheated, you need to immediately lower his body temperature. Move your pet into the shade and apply cool (not cold) water over his body to gradually lower his core body temperature. Apply cold towels or ice packs to your pet's head, neck, and chest only. Let your pet drink small amounts of water or lick ice cubes. Most importantly, get him to a veterinarian immediately.

Play It Safe on the 4th

Don't take your pets to crowded summer events such as concerts or fairs. The loud noises and crowds, combined with the heat, can be stressful and dangerous for pets. For your pet's well being, leave her at home. Be especially aware of these threats during holidays, such as the Fourth of July.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Pet Safety & Dog-Proofing Essentials

2010-03-08T12:19:00.000-06:00

Pet Safety & Dog-Proofing Essentials

Secure an ID tag to a buckle collar, and keep that collar on the dog at all times. Keep it "2-fingers" snug and check the fit regularly; don't risk your dog's life to a loose collar.

Always walk your dog on a leash for his own safety and everyone else's. Voice control is useless when your dog decides to chase a squirrel, knock down a child, or fight with another dog.
Microchips and tattoos: All pets should wear a collar with I.D. tag at all times, but in case they come off, microchips and tattoos offer added security. Microchipping involves a safe, permanent miniature implant injected beneath the skin over the shoulder using a hypodermic needle; the chips can be read by scanners found increasingly at animal shelters. Tattoos are easy to spot. For details, contact:
* Home Again Companion Animal Retrieval Microchip System l -800-252-7894
* AVID Microchip 1-800-336-2843
* National Dog Registry/Tattoos 1-800-NDR-DOGS
* Tatoo-A-Pet 1-800-TATTOOS
If your pet gets lost, contact the Missing Pet Network at www.missingpet.net

Don't leave your dog unattended in a car - especially in hot weather. Even with the windows open, a car can heat up like an oven in minutes. Hundreds of animals die in cars each year.

Make sure your dog always has free access to water - inside the house and out.

Before you let your dog in a yard, make sure the fence is secure. And keep watch! Unattended dogs can eventually dig under or climb/jump over fences, get injured or disturb neighbors.

Keep your pets off the grass if you've just applied weed killer. They may lick their paws and get ill.

Avoid heatstroke: don't leave your dog outside for long periods on a hot day. When outside, a dog must always have a shady shelter and access to water.

Don't chain up dogs. Chains and ropes cause injuries, and a chained dog cannot protect himself from stray animals. Chaining creates frustration that leads to aggression and other behavioral problems.

Antifreeze kills - and unfortunately its taste appeals to pets. Tightly close and store all containers away from pets, and watch for puddles when you're walking your dog.

Do not transport your dog in the back of a pickup truck. Hundreds of dogs die each year from falling out of trucks. Also, dogs get head and eye injuries from sticking heads out car windows.

Shield electrical wires and plug outlets in your home. Don't leave coins, clips, etc. on the floor.

Store cleaning products high or behind latched doors. Equip cabinet doors with child-proof latches.

Don't let pets drink from a toilet that has freshener in the tank or bowl. The chemicals are toxic.

Bones, especially those that splinter easily, can lodge in the dog's throat or stomach and cause fatal punctures. Give your dog rubber bones instead.

Even a small amount of chocolate can poison and kill your dog. Keep it away from your dog. Unless prescribed by your vet, don't give human medications like aspirin to your dog.

Identify and move toxic plants out of reach. According to the National Animal Poison Control Center and other sources, some toxic plants include:
Aloe Vera
Amaryllis
Apple seeds
Apricot pit
Asparagus fern
Avocado - fruit and pit
Azalea
Baby's breath
Bird of Paradise
Bittersweet
Boxwood
Buckeye
Caladium
Calla Lily
Carnation
Chinaberry Tree
Chinese evergreen
Clematis
Cordatum
Corn plant
Cornstalk Plant
Croton
Cycads
Cyclamen
Daffodil
Dieffenbachia & Dumb cane
Dracaena
Dragon tree Easter Lily
Elephant Ears
English Ivy
Fiddle-leaf fig
Foxglove (Digitalis)
Geranium
Ivy - Branching, Devil's, English, German, Glacier, Needlepoint
Hibiscus
Holly
Hurricane Plant
Hyacinth bulbs
Hydrangea
Nightshade
Oleander
Onion
Indian Rubber Plant
Jerusalem Cherry
Kalanchoe (Panda Bear Plant)
Lily of the Valley & other lily plants
Marijuana
Mistletoe
Morning Glory
Narcissus
Peach (pits and wilting leaves)
Philodendron (entire plant)
Plumosa Fern
Poinsetta (low toxicity)
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Primrose (Primula)
Rhododendron
Sago Palm
Schefflera
Taro Vine
Tomato Plant (all parts except ripe fruit)
Wisteria seeds
Yew

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Dog Profing

2010-03-07T12:18:00.000-06:00

Dog-Proofing:

Fences. Check carefully for gaps, loose boards or bent bottom edges. Fix problems immediately. Move any woodpiles away from the fence. Can your dog jump, climb, or dig under the fence? Or break through the pickets? If there's a way to escape, a dog will find it - either to chase other animals, go after passers-by or to look for company. So don't leave your dog in the yard unattended.

Electric/invisible fences. Convenient - but risky. The shocks can be unhealthy. When the power fails, your dog may run off - subjecting the dog to injury...and subjecting you to a liability claim. Also, many dogs would rather be shocked than miss the chance to chase a squirrel (and they soon learn the shock stops after passing the barrier). Electric fences do not keep animal or human intruders out.

Gate latches. Can someone enter your yard or release your dog? Can your dog open the latch?

Screen doors. A dog can easily kick open or tear through screen doors.

Doggie doors. Block the door when you are not at home or cannot supervise your dog.

Block open stairs/railings using baby or puppy gates.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Travel Tips

2010-03-06T12:15:00.000-06:00

Travel Tips

Make sure your dog's flat collar is secure and that her ID tag is, too.

Bring your dog's leash, food, bowls, toys, brush, flea comb, towels - and lots of paper towels.

Pack a copy of medical records, including rabies certificate (make an extra copy for your glove box). This will help in case you board your dog during your trip.

Make sure your dog receives a bordatella vaccine in advance.

Pack heartworm pills and any other medication, plus a first aid kit including tweezers to remove ticks.

Pack lots of ice - a treat for the dog, plus it melts down into water.

Cut back on food starting the evening before a long drive, and avoid feeding 2 to 3 hours before leaving town, to reduce the chances of your dog becoming car-sick.

For the car ride, use a doggie seat belt or confine in a crate.

Don't leave your dog alone in a car.
Bring a crate when you travel. Folding crates are very convenient - and will safely confine your dog in unfamiliar places.

Be careful about leaving your dog in a hotel room alone, since she may bark or howl. Sometimes it's best to use a local kennel or doggie daycare facility.

Don't bring your dog to places unless you know dogs are allowed.

If you're traveling across borders, obtain a health certificate in advance.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

osteoarthritis in dogs

2010-03-05T16:10:00.000-06:00

When it comes to osteoarthritis in dogs, natural and alternative therapies are safer and can be just as effective as commonly prescribed drugs, according to Allen M. Schoen, DVM, adjunct professor at Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine in North Grafton, Mass., and author of the book "Kindred Spirits."

"Drugs may relieve pain, but they also can cause further degeneration of your dog's joints and health," Schoen explains. Non-steroidal drugs, such as Rimadyl, can damage the liver, while steroids may cause muscle atrophy, gastrointestinal bleeding, liver and kidney disease, and Cushing's disease. He recommends combining natural and alternative therapies "to maintain joint health and overall health, in addition to relieving pain and inflammation."

Help for arthritis sufferers as well as senior dogs:

Diet and Weight: The heavier your dog, the more stress gets put on his joints. Dr. Schoen recommends a properly balanced natural diet, preferably home prepared, to help shed pounds and and maintain a slim physique.

Exercise: Exercise daily, but in moderation. Walking is good, but no jogging and jumping. Dr. Schoen recommends a daily exercise program of frequent short walks, stretching, and massage for arthritis sufferers.

Massage and other physical therapy: Learn canine massage, including T-Touch (Tellington Touch). Such bodywork opens up neural pathways while stimulating the body. Relaxation is another positive effect. Another emerging treatment: trigger point therapy, which involves applying direct pressure to a particular point "stuck" due to injury or trauma. (See resource list below.)

Other options: physical therapy, swimming or underwater treadmill exercise at an animal rehabilitation center.

Proper bedding: Make sure your dog has cushioned surfaces on which to rest in each room he occupies. Check your dog's bed. It may be time for more cushioned bedding. We use memory foam for our senior dog, but we make sure to keep it in a washable cover since one of our other dogs enjoy chomping off pieces of foam.

Arthritis Care Daily doses of vitamin A, E, and Ester-C, as well as MSM (methylsulfonylmethane), help arthritic dogs, according to Dr. Schoen. The mineral selenium, as an antioxidant, helps the body fight off disease.

An essential fatty acid supplement such as flaxseed oil works to fight and reduce inflammation. Cetyl myristoleate is a new joint lubricant and anti-inflammatory.

Glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate: Daily glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate help protect and lubricate joints, says Dr. Schoen. It may take four to six weeks before you see results. Injections of Adequan, a liquid form of glycosaminoglycans, can produce improvement more quickly.

Acupuncture: Dr. Schoen recommends acupuncture for dogs with arthritis. Acupuncture increases circulation to the muscles and joint capsule, which provides more oxygen and slows cell degeneration. It also relieves painful muscle spasms, increases leg strength by stimulating nerves and muscles, and releases endorphins to make the dog feel better. Acupressure can help between sessions.

Chiropractic care: Chiropractic adjustments can increase mobility so a dog doesn't compensate for stiffness or pain by walking abnormally, which can create other problems.

Herbs: Boswellia and devil's claw are anti-inflammatories, while alfalfa provides basic building blocks for the joints.

Homeopathy: Common remedies for arthritis are Bryonia and Rhus toxicodendron (poison ivy).

In a past issue of "Healthy Animals Update," Dr. Christina Chambreau responded to a reader who, having tried conventional arthritis therapies, sought more effective alternatives.

"If stiffness is the main complaint, I would suggest beginning with chiropractic or acupuncture. If there are many other problems or the stiffness occurs only at certain times or conditions (wet weather only, 5-7 a.m. only, etc.), then homeopathy could be the best approach.

"Working with an animal intuitive or communicator can help determine which approach would be best. Sometimes X-rays can localize the problem and reveal bone abnormalities that would respond to one treatment over another. Progressive lameness can certainly be caused by bone cancer, so that needs to be considered in long-term problems.

"Sometimes the pain is a secondary problem (from stiff and unused muscles) that persists once the actual arthritis is resolved. To prevent or even resolve this type of pain, swimming and physical therapy can be very useful.

"Is the animal getting enough calcium in the diet? Does the animal need to lose weight? Is more exercise (or less) needed for this particular dog? These questions and more could help decide on the best treatment for [the individual dog]."

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Bedtime for Puppy

2010-02-28T06:09:00.000-06:00

Bedtime

Your dog should sleep in a room with the pack - you and your family. The dog should have her own bed to sleep on. For some dogs, sleeping on the human's bed can aggravate dominant behaviors, so exercise caution. If your dog begins to growl or show other signs of aggression to any one in the household, work on obedience training immediately to reestablish who is in charge.

The first few nights, you may want to confine your new dog in a crate in the bedroom, but start teaching your dog house manners so that you can provide increased freedom. It is not unusual for your new dog to bark or whine if confined to a crate. Dogs want to be with their pack members. (This is why dogs kept outside often are nuisance barkers or destructive. They are stressed being kept apart.)

Place the crate or bed where she can see you. If she barks at bedtime, correct her with a firm "No Bark!" Praise softly when he quiets down.

Some people find it useful to accompany a verbal correction with a spray from a bottle filled with water. Your goal, however, is voice control. Using an external object devalues the verbal command because the dog associates stopping a behavior with the object.

Safe chew toys (especially if teething) will give your dog something to do until she falls asleep.

Eventually you'll want to wean your dog from her crate. Pick a night after you've tired her out and keep the crate door open. You can transition to just a dog bed from there.

A night-time housetraining hint: put plastic bags in front of the bedroom side of the door. If she gets up, the crackling sound will alert you to your dog's need to go out

Allergy sufferers typically should keep pets off their beds and furniture. If a doctor advises against pets in the bedroom, place the dog's bed in the bedroom hallway or family room. However, most allergy sufferers can happily live with their dogs with the aid of medications, vacuuming and simple preparation such as AllerpetD (rubbed on the dog). Also: wash hands after handling pets.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Housetraining

2010-02-27T06:06:00.000-06:00

Housetraining

Wouldn't it be nice if dogs were born housetrained? Or if babies were born potty-trained? Until such dreams come true, here are some real-life tips:

Watch for signs of discomfort, restlessness or circling, then whisk him outside to an established, close-by potty place. Realize that when a dog relieves himself in the wrong place, it's not out of spite. It's because he had to go. A problem with not catching the dog in time to whisk him outdoors: the acting of relieving himself in that spot is immediately self-reinforcing due to the rush of relief he feels.

Praise when she goes potty. Give her a treat or kibble to reinforce the behavior. If 15 or so minutes pass without pottying, trainer Melissa Berryman suggests you pick up a small dog, or bring a larger dog inside for about five minutes and then bring her back out.

Confine when you can't watch...in a crate or a part of the kitchen. Don't leave food out. Do leave water, unless she'll be confined less than 2 hours. Make this her domain until house-trained.

Realize that puppies and dogs can't "hold it" for long periods. Even adult dogs may need a mid- day dog walker if you work long hours. And puppies need to urinate and defecate frequently, so they'll need to go out at least every 4 hours to get housetrained.

Crate-train. The quickest way to housetrain most dogs, crate training is based on the premise they don't like to mess in their sleeping area. Use a crate large enough for your dog to lie down and turn around. For oversized crates, use a divider to confine the dog to one part of the crate until housebroken.

Feed on a schedule. Feed your dog the same times each day, then take him out a certain amount of time after feeding (this depends on age; often, young puppies must be taken within 15 minutes). Young puppies are usually fed three times a day; older puppies and adult dogs twice a day. Don't switch from food to food; keep the diet consistent.

Keep a potty routine. Take your dog outside first thing in the morning, when you get home from work, within an hour after the dog eats, just before bedtime, and following vigorous play. Young puppies may need to be taken outside every two hours. They will get housebroken much faster and reliably if someone can take them out midday during the workday.

Don't end the walk outside when your dog potties. Or she'll get the idea that outdoor fun ends when she relieves herself. This is why some dogs hold it until they are brought back inside. After your dog "goes," praise, give a treat and keep walking a bit longer.

Eliminate opportunities for accidents. During the first two weeks, keep your dog close to you so that if she starts to potty indoors, you can correct immediately. Otherwise, she may relieve herself in other rooms - and if you don't catch her in the act, there's no use in scolding because the dog won't remember or make the connection. Close off unused rooms, and use a leash to keep her beside you, either holding the leash or attaching it to a furniture leg (for safety's sake, remove the leash when you can't watch her). Until housebroken, crate her when you're not home to watch.

Interrupt vs. scold. And use your voice, not physical force. Typically, a dog goes because she just has to. If you catch her in the act, try to interrupt the action with a loud, startling AH-AH-AH!! or NO! and an immediate trip to the potty spot. Use a loud, deep, firm vowel sound; muttering or repeating commands won't convey the message. You want to alert, not punish, your dog. When she resumes relieving herself outside, praise lavishly.

Punishment teaches only fear. Never shove a dog's nose in his mess or smack a dog, which teaches him only to fear hands. Remember: dogs forget what they do after they do it. A dog is unable to associate past behavior with a punishment he is now receiving. He can associate the pain and anger with the person administering the punishment.

Clean up. Try not to let her see you clean up a mess, or she may think it's an interactive game. Use an enzyme-based pet odor neutralizer like Nature's Miracle or Simple Solution to kill the urine scent. Using ammonia is counter-productive, since urine contains ammonia. Cleaning up extends to the outside, too. Many dogs dislike going in a poop-riddled yard. Note: paper training postpones learning the desired behavior.

Neuter and spay. Intact dogs have a much greater tendency to mark. Alter by age 6 months.

If problems persist, ask yourself:

Are you missing signals that your dog has to go out?

Do you keep your dog on a schedule she can count on?

Do you use an odor neutralizer on the spots, so your dog won't be tempted to mark there again?

Could your dog have a medical condition? See your vet right away. A urinalysis and fecal exam will help determine if the dog has an infection, parasites, or a pH imbalance requiring a special food.

Does your dog urinate when excited or frightened? This is submissive urination. Punishing the dog will only aggravate the problem. When arriving home, greet her quietly and take her right out to potty.
Arrange greetings for dogs with submissive urination to be outdoors.

Is the dog eliminating in her crate? Pet store pups and other dogs who have spent much of their youth in a pen or cage become used to sitting in their mess. Take the dog outside 20 minutes after eating or drinking. Give her a chance to potty before crating.

If you keep the buckle collar on when crating, make sure it's snug so to reduce the risk of it geting caught on crate wires, and be sure to use a crate pan or pad. Or remove the collar when crating, but be sure to put it back on properly as soon as you release the dog from the crate. Never leave chain, slip or pinch collars on a dog when not training or walking the dog as they can easily get caught on things, leading to injury. Don't attach tags to training collars either; attach tags only to the flat buckle collar.

New baby? Visiting baby? Include the dog in family activities to avoid behavioral problems. While one person's holding baby, the other should give the dog some attention. Place the dog in a sit/stay, and dispense small treats to reward good behavior towards the child. This way, the dog associates being near the child with good things.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Mealtime for your dog

2010-02-26T06:04:00.000-06:00

Mealtime

Food:
A bargain brand dog food may not be the healthiest choice, so it can cost you more down the line. Look for a food that uses higher quality ingredients and contains fewer byproducts and preservatives that can trigger food allergies. Ask about your adopted dog's previous feeding schedule and food. When you change dog foods, change over gradually, as dogs thrive on a consistent diet.

Feeding dry food helps keep teeth cleaner. For extra nutrients, supplement the daily diet with some fresh vegetables such as green beans and baby carrots and low-fat plain yogurt - dogs love them! But don't feed a dog table scraps, which typically leads to begging, weight problems and indigestion. If a vet prescribes a special diet, follow that advice.

Feeding plain rice can help a dog get through a digestive problem. If your dog is on antibiotics, add plain yogurt to his food to help replace the good bacteria in his system.

There's no free lunch. Don't let a dog grab food. Before feeding, giving treats or petting, give a command (such as "sit") for your dog to practice.

Feeding schedule & tips:
Make sure your dog has free access to clean, fresh water.

Filtered water can offer health benefits to dogs as well as people. Sometimes dogs can be sensitive to something in your local tap water. In many cases, allergic symptoms will abate when a switch is made to filtered or bottled water.

Free feeding can lead to housetraining accidents and spoiled food, so it may be best to feed at scheduled times. Young puppies are usually fed three times a day; older puppies and adult dogs twice a day. If the dog's a picky eater, remove the food bowl after 15 minutes and don't try again until the next feeding time. Feed other animals away from the new dog to prevent fights.

Your new dog may not be interested in eating the first day, but just try again at the next feeding time.

For health reasons, use stainless steel or porcelain bowls without painted surfaces. Plastic bowls are a breeding ground for germs. Wash food and water bowls between feedings.

Frozen green beans are a great healthy treat - low calorie, too! Being frozen adds to the chewing satisfaction.

Positive reinforcement: It is much better to teach your pet that he is a "good boy" or "good girl" for going potty outside, rather than teach him he is "bad" for going inside.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Dogs and Children

2010-02-25T06:03:00.000-06:00

Dogs & Children

Never leave children alone with your dog.

Teach your own and visiting children:

The proper way to approach a dog.

Not to rush up to, scream at, or pester a dog.

Never harass or mistreat a dog. Don't jump on or rough-house with dogs.

A dog can't whine or cry, so he tells you he's afraid by growling and nipping.

The most common reason so many dogs are returned to shelters is because "something happened" while the adopter/adult was not in the room with the dogs and the children. I cannot stress enough: please use caution. Dogs are not baby-sitters.

Split up tasks such as feeding, playing and walking with other people in your household so that your dog does not associate positive experiences with only one person.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Introducing Your New Dog to People

2010-02-24T06:00:00.001-06:00

Introducing Your New Dog to People

A new dog feels bewildered and stressed by all of the changes, so surrounding her with too many people might cause her to cower or nip. So delay introductions to friends and neighbors until the dog has had a chance to settle in. (However, you can start obedience classes with a humane trainer right away.)

Make introductions one at a time, on leash for control. Exercise and calm the dog before meetings, and have treats handy to shape and reward good behavior. You may want to have the dog on leash so that you can correct immediately as needed. Make sure the visitor is relaxed, and that you convey confidence.

The dog may want to sniff the visitor first, before any petting. Beware: if the guest is tense, the dog may sense this as a direct challenge. So set the tone with your actions and attitude - wait until you're happy and relaxed. Read cues from your dog: how comfortable does she appear? Many dogs love new people, while others feel overwhelmed. (Consult the books listed at the end of this guide to learn how to understand and educate your dog effectively.)

Expect your new dog to engage in behaviors you'll need to correct, such as growling or jumping on people. Allowing a dog to jump on people is a common mistake, but to avoid exasperation down the line, teach your dog "off" from the start. In addition, don't let anyone engage your dog in aggressive play such as wrestling, tug of war, or play biting.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Introducing Your New Dog to Cats

2010-02-23T05:52:00.002-06:00

Introducing Your New Dog to Cats

You'll need a highly controlled environment to introduce your new dog to a cat. It helps to have two people so that one person can hold the new dog while the other praises each animal.

Keep the dog on leash. A chase may ensue only if the cat runs, but dogs with a stronger prey drive pose a greater threat. Firmly correct your dog at the first hint of undesired behavior, and don't unleash her around your cat until they are interacting calmly.

While you shouldn't keep the pets entirely apart, make sure you are supervising when they are in the same room in case trouble breaks out. Warning signs in cats include a direct stare, elevated hindquarters, and fur standing on end. If the pets seem to be accepting each other, praise each animal and reward them with treats and petting.

Litterbox accidents are likely, since cats will be disturbed about the newcomer. Your cat may hide or seek higher ground for days or weeks until she is ready to accept the dog. Make sure she has places to retreat that the dog cannot access. Also be sure to block the dog's access to the cat's food and litterbox. You can attach a bell to the new dog's collar to keep track of his whereabouts.

Be careful not to praise undesired behaviors. For example, petting and soothing an agitated or growling animal will reinforce the wrong response. Reward only calm, desirable or at least neutral behavior.

A dog with a high prey drive can be taught to coexist with cats; this requires concentrated practice involving the assistance of another person. First, you must train your dog to understand and obey the "Leave it" or "No" command. Put a training collar and leash on the dog and place him in a sit/stay. The other person stands at a distance, holding the cat. Do a firm leash correction at the start of any suspicious behavior and firmly state "Leave it" (or "No"). Praise and treat your dog for remaining calm and in the sit position. When the dog behaves, the other person can move closer; praise or correct the dog as needed. Continue for 15 minutes and try to end the training session on a positive note.

Training a dog to leave small animals alone requires patience, as it can take weeks. For the animals' safety, don't leave them alone together, and separate them at mealtime.

Leadership Tips:

* Dogs are not little humans; they are predatory pack animals who follow a leader.
* Leader dogs need to know that their owners are better leaders, and flight dogs need to know that they will be protected when their environment scares them.
* To be a true leader, give constant feedback and keep control at all times.
* If a newly adopted dog growls or snaps, realize this is normal. The owners need to assert leadership to convey to the dog that they won't tolerate this behavior. If you back down, or become frightened, your dog gains power over you.
* Seek out an obedience program that focuses on teaching you how to provide leadership, relationship building and problem-solving.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Urban Out Sitters - The Pet Care Professionals for Chicago - Cage Free Overnight Boarding

2010-02-22T23:15:00.001-06:00

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Urban Out Sitters - The Pet Care Professionals for Chicago - Cat Care Services

2010-02-22T22:45:00.001-06:00

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Urban Out Sitters - The Pet Care Professionals for Chicago - Dog Daycare

2010-02-22T22:21:00.001-06:00

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Urban Out Sitters - The Pet Care Professionals for Chicago - Dog Walking Services

2010-02-22T21:46:00.001-06:00

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Urban Out Sitters - The Pet Care Professionals for Chicago - Grooming Tips

2010-02-22T21:24:00.001-06:00

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Urban Out Sitters - The Pet Care Professionals for Chicago - Nutrition for Dogs and Cats

2010-02-22T20:52:00.001-06:00

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Urban Out Sitters - The Pet Care Professionals for Chicago - Our promo video

2010-02-22T20:24:00.001-06:00

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Urban Out Sitters - The Pet Care Professionals for Chicago - Intro to my service

2010-02-22T20:23:00.001-06:00

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2010-02-22T19:28:00.001-06:00

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2010-02-21T08:22:00.000-06:00

The First Day

Dogs thrive on routine, so orient your new companion to your schedule. As long as you are consistent and provide leadership, the dog will adjust.

By the way, your dog will explore everything, so puppy-proof your house (place shoes inside closets, put electrical cords out of reach, move prized objects to higher ground).

The earlier you train and make lifestyle rules, the easier your dog will be to handle and the fewer problems you will have. And when you do encounter problems, you will be much better able to resolve them.

Getting acclimated/housetraining helpers:

When you bring your new dog home, leash-walk so that he can take in the smells of the turf and relieve himself. Pick a special place and encourage him to potty there. Be patient; it may take 10 or 15 minutes. Always praise warmly when he relieves himself in an approved spot.

Next, enter the house and show him around. Keep him on leash. If he lifts his leg, give him a quick leash correction (yank on the leash and release) and tell him "No" to disrupt the action, then take him outside immediately. Offer him a treat for going in the right place.

Remember, your dog will be excited and anxious about his new home. Don't be surprised at panting and pacing, housetraining accidents, excessive drinking or chewing, or gastric upset. In addition, any dog, especially a male who was not neutered early, is likely to mark new territory - especially if other pets have lived there. Tell every member of your family to resist the temptation to overwhelm a new dog. Give him some time and space to get settled.

Next, take him to his crate. Encourage him to sniff around; reward him with small treats for entering and staying in the crate. Keep soft bedding and safe toys in the crate; rotate the toys for variety.

Crate facts. Housetraining problems are the top reason people give up dogs. Crates aid in housetraining because of dogs' den instincts - they avoid messing where they sleep. Crating is cruel only if the dog is physically uncomfortable or if left too often or too long. Limit crating to 4-5 hours maximum a day. Important: Teach your dog that good things come in the crate. Place appealing toys in the crate; feed in the crate. Stay in the room awhile and praise when the dog rests calmly in the crate. Resist letting the dog out if she cries. However, if she has to relieve herself, honor that. Over the transition period, gradually open the crate door and increase the number of rooms to which she has access.

After the house tour, take him outside to potty again. Be sure to take him to the same spot.

Important: If your dog is not housebroken, begin housetraining now (see Housetraining section). Stay tuned in and responsive to your dog's signals of when he needs to go. The more vigilant you are now, the more reliably housetrained he'll be later.

However, having a few accidents the first week does not mean a dog is not housebroken. Excitement can lead to accidents. In addition, males tend to mark in the house the day or two. Once he begins to settle in, and you begin educating him in acceptable behavior, he will relax and behave.

Using a leash indoors during the transition: For the first couple of weeks, leave a leash attached to the dog's buckle collar while indoors with you, so you can stop him immediately if he starts doing something you don't want - such as lifting his leg, chewing on a chair leg, jumping on the couch, or signaling aggression towards anyone in the household.
Warning: Don't leave a leash attached when you're not there; the leash could get caught on something or chewed up. Never leave a choke collar on a dog when indoors or out in the yard, or he could be strangled if caught on a drawer pull or fence post.

Timing is everything. When a correction is timed perfectly with the offending behavior, it will redirect your dog's focus for a fleeting moment. If during this incredibly brief window of opportunity you can insert or re-insert your command, you can often change your dog's focus. If the correction or the re-command is not done with close-to-perfect timing and technique, it has little effect, other than to desensitize the dog to further corrections.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Pet Adoption: Preparing for A New Pet

2010-02-20T08:25:00.000-06:00

Pet Adoption: Preparing for A New Pet

Before you bring your new friend home, it's best to be prepared to prevent unnecessary confusion and stress.

Establish the rules. Decide who's responsible for what: grooming, feeding, exercising, cleaning, play-time, and so on. Also establish whether or not there will be areas that are "off-limits" for your new pet. For example, you may not want your pet to sleep on the bed.

Have all the necessary supplies ready. Examples are food, food and water bowls, leash or harness, collar and identification, brush, and so on. Take a look at the cat budget or the dog budget for more information.

Pet-proof your home. Some things you may want to consider include:

Lock away household chemicals, such as cleansers, insecticide, antifreeze, and others. Animals are especially attracted to antifreeze; be sure to clean up spills immediately and keep the rest out of reach as even a small amount can be fatal.

Place houseplants out of reach. Many houseplants are poisonous.

Have separate areas for your new pet and any existing pets. Pets need to be introduced to one another slowly; be sure you have an extra room or a kennel so that your pets can be separated until they have grown accustomed to each other.

Tie electrical cords out of the way, if you can. Dogs and cats can chew on electrical cords - or even catch them while walking (or running!) around, causing lamps, TVs, radios, etc. to fall.

Keep doors closed - this includes the doors to your washer and dryer, your closets, the cupboards ... inquisitive little animals can sneak in just about anywhere!

Keep household trinkets out of your pet's reach. Stuff like garbage, medicine, pins, elastics, thread, needles, and so on should be placed out of the way.

Make sure everyone knows how to properly handle your pet. Everyone should know how to safely pick up your pet. Also emphasize certain rules such as your pet should never be disturbed while eating.

Keep other pets away at first. Your new pet may be nervous ... help him or her feel more comfortable by keeping your other pets confined until you are ready to slowly introduce them.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality. For more information about Urban out Sitters, checkout our website. www.urbanoutsitters.com

Urban Out Sitters Reality Show

2010-02-19T20:48:00.001-06:00

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Introduction to Dog Daycare

2010-02-19T20:36:00.001-06:00

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Meet owner Joseph Giannini as he explains his dog daycare.

Teach your dog to wait

2010-02-19T08:20:00.000-06:00

Don't reward pushy or rude behavior when training or anytime you're with your dog. Instead of granting the attention or favor your dog seeks - unless he's trying to alert you that "I have to relieve myself!" - say "Oops!" and ask for a "Sit."

"Wait" is a very useful cue, and here's how to teach it to your dog.

Say "Wait," reach for the door knob, but don't touch it. If he stays in a sit, click the clicker, or say "Yes!", and feed him a treat. Remember, prompt timing is key.

If he gets up, say "Oops!" and ask him to sit again. "Oops!" means "getting up doesn't earn treats." Now reach toward the door. If he keeps sitting, click and treat him for not getting up. Next steps:

* Reach for the door knob. If he stays in a sit, click and treat.
* Touch the door knob. If he stays in a sit, click and treat.
* Jiggle the door knob. If he stays in a sit, click and treat.
* Open the door a crack. If he stays in a sit, click and treat.
* Open the door wider. If he stays in a sit, click and treat.

After several repetitions at each step, he'll probably get it.

There's no need for aggressive, forceful behaviors on your part. Instead, keeping things calm maintains presence of mind for both of you. Wait for, and encourage, your dog to pay attention to you and to offer polite appeasement behaviors, and quickly reward those behaviors - so that he learns that good behavior makes good stuff happen. Don't miss opportunities to reward good behavior, and don't accidentally reward undesirable behavior

Some everyday applications:

* Wait at the door. He waits there until you give permission to move forward (instead of letting him push out ahead of you, which is self-rewarding pushy behavior.

* Wait for dinner. Your dog sits, and waits for your permission, before he eats. Cue him to "Sit" before you put his bowl down.

* Wait to get in the car. Sit and wait at the open door you OK him to enter.

* Wait to get out of the car. Which can be a life-saver.

* Wait before going for a walk. He sits and waits - instead of jumping - before you put on the leash.

* Wait as a way to ask to be petted.

Waiting is a way to "say please" and, in the spirit of No Free Lunch training programs, to earn the good stuff in life. The dog learns that good behavior earns desirable things such as going on walks, and valuable goods like toys and food. Inappropriate behavior, he learns, makes good stuff go away and get delayed.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Can your pet get HiNi?

2010-02-18T09:49:00.002-06:00

The news this week that a cat in Iowa had come down with a case of H1N1 swine flu likely had a lot of pet owners worried about their own pets, but Canadian vets assure that the risk of swine flu infecting your pet is very low.

The 13-year-old Iowa kitty apparently caught the flu from one of its sick owners, but has since recovered, along with its owners.

Vets say while it's possible for Fluffy or Fido to pick up the flu from humans, it just doesn't happen very often.

The main reason is that animals and pets have different respiratory systems. To get a little more technical about it, they have different receptors on their cells, and flu viruses that have adapted to spreading well between humans just don't seem to infect the cells of other species very well.

The Iowa cat is the first known house pet to catch swine flu, though the virus has been diagnosed in pig herds and turkey herds. That's not altogether surprising given that genetic ananlysis of H1N1 have suggested the virus has the DNA components of swine flu, bird flu, and human flu strains.

While H1N1 can infect pigs and birds, pet birds and pot-bellied pigs have remained so far untouched by H1N1, with no cases reported. Nor have there been any cases of swine flu reported in dogs, bunnies or rodents.

The one pet species that is at risk of H1N1 is ferrets. Ferrets are very susceptible to influenza, including human strains. Again, it goes back to their cell receptors, which are remarkably like those of humans. That's part of the reason why ferrets are considered the best animal model for studying flu transmission.

There have been a number of reported cases of H1N1 flu in ferrets and those cases will likely continue to rise. But for other animals, the likelihood of the family pet becoming ill with swine flu are low. If they were high, we would have seen a lot more cases by now, given how many humans have been infected.

'Dog flu' a bigger threat

As Dr. Scott Weese mentions on the "Worms and Germs" blog, run by the Ontario Veterinary College and the City of Hamilton Public Health Department: "Thousands of pets have presumably been exposed to owners infected with H1N1, with few apparent problems."

For dogs, a more pressing threat is a flu called canine flu, or H3N8. "Dog flu" emerged a few years ago after having drifted from a flu strain that infected horses. While it can sicken dogs, there is no evidence it can infect humans.

But Dr. Weese notes that even dog flu should not be a huge worry for dog owners. There have been few, if any, cases in Canada, and the dogs that appear to be most at risk live in densely-populated, stressful environments like animal shelters and racing greyhound facilities.

There is now a vaccine against H3N8 for dogs, but Weese notes, "In an otherwise healthy dog that is not in a high risk environment (e.g. kennel, shelter, greyhound racetrack), it's questionable whether vaccination is needed."

The Canadian Veterinary Medical Association advises that pet owners can keep their pets healthy even when they themselves are infected with the flu by taking these precautions:

washing hands thoroughly particularly before handling the pet or preparing food; covering coughs and sneezes; avoiding close contact with the pet during the course of illness. avoiding sharing beds or even furniture with pets while you're sick with flu.

Pet owners should monitor their pets' health and consult a veterinarian if their pet is showing any signs of illness, the CVMA recommends. Common signs of flu infection in pets include:

not eating or drinking
not playing as usual
sometimes coughing and sneezing
some may develop a fever

Just as with swine flu in humans, most animals recover easily from flu, with most symptoms mild. It's usually treated by keeping the pet well-hydrated and rested. Sometimes medication is given to make the animal more comfortable, while antibiotics might also be prescribed to treat any secondary bacterial infections.

What are we feeding our pets?

2010-02-17T08:15:00.001-06:00

What is in "popular" pet foods today?

It’s a question many of us don’t think about. We see nice pictures of whole grains, prime cuts of meat and human grade vegetables on our pets food bag and assume there is some chef in a pet food kitchen cooking up the best food for our beloved pets.

Unfortunately this is far from the truth, More than 95% of pets derive their nutritional needs from a single source, processed pet foods. When people think of pet food many envision whole chicken meat, choice cuts of beef, fresh grains and all the nutrition that their dog or cat would ever need, images that pet food manufacturers promote in their advertisements and print on their food bags. What these companies do not reveal is that instead of wholesome chicken meat, they have substituted chicken heads, feet, feathers and intestines. Those choice cuts of beef are really cow brains, tongues, esophagi, fetal tissue dangerously high in hormones and even diseased and cancerous meat. Those whole grains have had the starch removed for corn starch powder and the oil extracted for corn oil or they are just hulls and other remnants from the milling process. Grains used that are truly whole have usually been deemed unfit for human consumption because of mold, contaminants, poor quality or poor handling practices, which is obvious by the fact that most pet food recalls are the result of toxic grain products such as Corn or Wheat. Pet food is one of worlds most synthetic edible products, containing virtually no whole ingredients.

The pet food industry is an 11 billion dollar a year, unregulated operation that feeds on the garbage that otherwise would and should end up in a landfill. Pet food manufacturers have become masters at getting pets to eat things they would normally turn their nose up at.

Pet food scientists have learned that it’s possible to take a mixture of inedible garbage, fortify it with artificial vitamins and minerals, preserve it so it can sit on the grocery shelf for more than a year, add dyes to make it attractive and then extrude it into whimsical shapes, making it appealing to us humans so we will purchase it. Unfortunately what makes up most of dog and cat food today (those not qualified as "human-grade) comes from the rendering plant. To render, as defined in Webster’s Dictionary, is “to process as for industrial use; to render livestock carcasses and to extract oil from fat, blubber, etc., by melting.” Some things that go into rendering are:

* Spoiled rotten meat from the supermarket, styrofoam wrap and all.

* Road kill that can’t be buried on the roadside.

* The “4-D’s” of cattle; dead, dying, diseased and disabled

* Rancid restaurant grease

* Euthanized pets, this is NO joke! (more about this below)

When chickens, lambs, cattle, pigs and other animals are slaughtered for food, usually only the lean muscle is cut off for human consumption. This leaves about 50% of a carcass left over. These leftovers are what become what we so commonly find on pet food labels such as “meat and bone meal” or “by-products”. So basically what pets are eating are lungs, ligaments, bones, blood and intestines.

When dead animals from pastures are picked up, they many not be rendered for up to a week after they have died. Because of this it is estimated that E. coli bacteria contaminates more than 50% of meat materials. The rendering process destroys the E. coli bacteria, but it does not eliminate the endotoxins bacteria that is released when they die. These endotoxins, which can cause sickness and disease, are not tested for by pet food manufacturers.

Slaughterhouses where cattle, pigs, lambs and other animals meet their fate provide more fuel for rendering. After slaughter, heads, feet, skin, hair, feathers, carpel and tarsal joints and mammary (milking) glands are removed. This material is sent to rendering. Animals that have died on their way to slaughter are also rendered. Cancerous tissue, tumors and worm infested organs are rendered. Injection sites, blood clots and any other inessential parts are rendered. Stomach and bowels are rendered. Contaminated material including blood is rendered. Carcasses with high levels of drugs or pesticides in excess of limits prescribed under the FDA (not fit for human consumption) are rendered.

At the rendering plant, slaughterhouse material, supermarket refuse, rancid restaurant grease, dead livestock, road kill and euthanized pets are dumped into huge containers. A machine slowly grinds the entire mess. After it is chipped or shredded, it is cooked at 220 - 270 degrees F. for approximately 20 minutes to one hour. The grease or tallow rises to the top where it is removed from the mixture. This is the source of animal fat in most pet foods on the market today. The remaining material, the raw, is then put into a press where the moisture is squeezed out, we now have the meat and bone meal that is added to most pet foods today.

Animals wouldn’t normally eat this stuff in the wild, so why will they eat it out of their bowls? Their noses are tricked by the smell of it. Pet food manufacturers are masters at getting a pet to eat something they would normally turn their nose up at.

These flavors usually come from rancid restaurant grease, you know from those big dumpsters you see in the back parking lot. This grease is often outside for weeks, exposed to extreme temperatures with no regard for its future use. The rancid grease is then picked up by fat blenders who mix the animal and vegetable fats together, stabilize them with powerful antioxidants to prevent further spoilage, then they sell it to pet food manufacturers. Rancid, heavily preserved fats are extremely difficult to for animals to digest and can lead to a host of pet health problems including digestive upsets, diarrhea, gas and bad breath. These fats are sprayed directly onto the kibble or nuggets to make an otherwise distasteful product palatable.

Two thirds of the pet food manufactured today contain synthetic preservatives, of the remaining one third, 90% includes ingredients already stabilized by synthetic preservatives. Be wary of pet foods that advertise as preservative free, if they using animal by-products or ingredients that have been rendered they will mostly like contain preservatives. Natural preservatives such as Rosemary and Vitamin E are used by quality manufacturers of natural pet foods not containing artificial/chemical preservatives. However, Pet food manufacturers are not required to list preservatives they themselves have not added. Here are some of the chemical preservatives that are used in mass-produced pet food today:

* BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) - know to cause kidney and liver dysfunction

* BHT (butylated hydroxytolulene) - know to cause kidney and liver dysfunction

* Ethoxyquin - suspected of causing cancer

* Propylene glycol (also used as automotive antifreeze) causes destruction of red blood cells-and is also commonly found in many treats such as Pedigree Dentabone/DentaStix etc

Other cheap fillers

Once considered a filler by the pet food industry, the amount of grain products, especially corn, used in pet food has risen sharply over the last decade to where it is usually one or two of the top three ingredients. For instance one Purina brand lists ground yellow corn, poultry by-products and corn gluten meal as its top three ingredients. Notice that two of the three ingredients are corn based products from the same source. This is an industry practice know as splitting. When components of the same ingredient are listed separately (ground yellow corn and corn gluten meal) it appears that there is less corn then poultry-by products, when it truth the corn ingredients when added together may weigh more then the chicken by-products.

Are there really pets in pet food?

Unfortunately when a vet tells a grieving pet owner they will “take care” of their dead loved one, they usually mean sending it off with a disposal company for rendering. This is all perfectly legal. Many veterinarians and especially shelters don’t bury or cremate animals.

Reporter John Eckhouse was one of the first people to discover the practice of sending euthanized pets to the rendering plants. A rendering plant employee was quoted as saying “thousands and thousands of pounds of dogs and cats are picked up and brought here everyday”. Although many in the pet food industry deny they use euthanized animals, proof that the practice goes on continues to surface. Research done on rendering plants that sell meat to pet food companies found that the rendering plants accept everything from road kill, dead zoo animals and euthanized pets from both shelters and veterinary clinics. One such plant was found to have rendered 11 tons of dogs and cats in one week! Another plant in California reported processing an average of 200 ton of dogs and cats per month.

In the 1990’s veterinarians began reporting to the FDA/CVM that the drug they used for anesthetizing and euthanizing pets, sodium pentobarital, seemed to be losing its effectiveness. This prompted the CVM to research the cause. In 1998 they went about testing dry dog food containing the ingredients meat and bone meal, animal digest and animal fat. They found the drug sodium pentobarital in 31 of the 37 pet foods tested. They concluded that animals were becoming immune to the drug from eating food laced with sodium pentobarbital, and the likely source of the chemical was euthanized animals.

They went on to conduct a study to find the levels of the drug in parts per billion for each food. Some actual examples in these results were:

32 ppb: Old Roy—Puppy Formula, chicken and beef
25.1 ppb: Heinz—Kibbles ‘n Bits Beefy Bits
16.4 ppb: Super G—Chunk Style Dog Food
15 ppb: Weis—Total High Energy Chicken and Rice
11.6 ppb: Pet Gold—Master Diet Puppy Formulation
10 ppb: Old Roy—Puppy Formula, beef flavor
Note that these products may be free of this drug now, as these are the findings in 2000.
The unfortunate reality is

Huge food manufacturers use pet food companies as a cheap and profitable way of disposing of the waste from their human food manufacturing plants. Here is a list of some of these companies and the pet foods they manufacture:

* Nestle: Alpo, Fancy Feast, Friskies, Mighty Dog, Purina

* Heinz: 9 lives, Amore, Gravy Train, Kibbles-n-Bits, Nature’s Recipe

* Colgate-Palmolive: Hill’s Science Diet

* Proctor & Gamble: Iams, Eukanuba

* Mars: Kal Kan, Mealtime, Sheba, Waltman’s

* Menufoods:

Below are ingredient comparison charts that I complied of some well know pet foods on the market today. I think you will be surprised at the lack of nutrition these foods actually have.

Here is a dog and cat food comparison chart listing some of the more popular pet food brands on the market today and listed the “less” desirable ingredients in red.

This information was taken directly off each brands website where the information is readily available. Keep in mind that ingredients are listed in descending order by weight just as human food, meaning the ingredient listed first is the ingredient that is used the most or makes up most of the food and so forth. For example if corn is listed once (or twice with some brands) as one of the first three ingredients that is much less desirable then if it was listed as the eighth ingredient.

I’ve included a glossary following the charts that explains each of the undesirable ingredients.

The best way to determine the quality of your pets food is to carefully read and understand the labels. While reading the label ask yourself the following questions, does the food use high quality ingredients? Is there a quality meat source as one of the first two ingredients instead of a by-product? Better yet are the ingredients human grade.

If you love your pet and value their heath I hope you will take this information to heart or better yet take some time to do a little research of your own so you can see the truth for yourself. We were shocked at how much information there was on this subject and how easy it was to find. We only wish pet owners would spend more time reading labels instead of watching commercials to determine what is best for their pet's health.

Dog Food

Brand
First Eight Ingredients

Eukanuba Adult
Chicken, chicken-by product meal, corn meal, ground whole grain sorghum, ground whole grain barley, chicken fat, fish meal, brewers rice

Iams Chunks
Chicken, corn meal, ground whole grain sorghum, chicken by-product meal, chicken fat, dried beet pulp, natural chicken flavor

Kibbles N Bits Original
Corn, soybean meal, ground wheat flour, beef and bone meal, animal fat, BHA used as preservatives, corn syrup, wheat middlings, water sufficient for processing, animal digest

Pedigree Complete Nutrition
Ground yellow corn, meat and bone meal, corn gluten meal, chicken by-product meal, animal fat (preserved with BHA/BHT), wheat mill run, natural poultry flavor, rice, wheat flour

Pro-Pak Adult Chunk
Chicken meal, ground yellow corn, chicken fat, rice flour, dried beet pulp, natural flavoring(unspecified), flaxseed, salt

Purina One Natural Blend
Chicken, corn gluten meal, poultry by-product meal, brown rice, oat meal, animal fat, beet pulp, calcium phosphate

Purina Beneful Original
Ground yellow corn, chicken by-product meal, corn gluten meal, whole wheat flour, beef tallow, rice flour, beef soy flour, sugar

Purina Dog Chow Complete Formula
Ground yellow corn, poultry by-product meal, animal fat, corn gluten meal, brewers rice, soybean meal, animal digest

Science Diet Adult
Ground whole grain corn, ground whole grain sorghum, ground whole grain wheat, chicken by-product meal, soybean meal, animal fat, corn gluten meal, brewers rice

Cat Food

Brand
First Eight Ingredients

Eukanuba Indoor Cat Formula
Chicken, chicken by-product meal, chicken liver, corn grits, corn meal, ground whole grain sorghum, fish meal, dried beet pulp

Flint River Ranch Adult and Kitten Formula
Chicken meal, ground yellow corn, corn gluten meal, chicken fat, ground whole wheat, dried brewers yeast, fish meal, corn germ meal

Iams Original Chicken
Chicken, chicken by-product meal, corn grits, corn meal, chicken fat, fish meal, dried beet pulp, chicken flavors

Pro-Pac Adult Formula
Chicken meal, rice flour, ground yellow corn, chicken fat, corn gluten, dried beet pulp, fish meal, dried egg product

Purina Complete Formula
Poultry by-products, corn gluten meal, corn meal, ground whole wheat, animal fat, brewers rice, soy flour, fish meal

Science Diet Original
Chicken by product meal, ground whole grain corn, brewers rice, animal fat, corn gluten, chicken flavor, potassium chloride, calcium sulfate

Glossary

Animal Digest: This is the dry by-product of rendered meat. During rendering, all usable animal parts (including fetal tissues and glandular wastes) are heated in vats and the liquid is separated from the dry meal. This meal is covered with charcoal and labeled "unfit for human consumption" before processing it into pet food. Digest can also include intestines, as well as the contents of those intestines, such as stool, bile, parasites and chemicals.

Animal Fat and Tallow: Animal fat is a "generic" fat source that is most often made up of rendered animal fat, rancid restaurant grease or other oils that are deemed inedible for humans. Tallow is low quality hard white fat that most animals find hard to digest, not to mention the cardiac risks resulting.

Chemical Preservatives: Chemical preservatives include BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), BHT (butylated hydroxytolulene), propyl gallate, propylene glycol (also used in automotive antifreeze and is suspected of causing red blood cell damage) and ethoxquin , are all potentially cancer causing agents that your pets are eating every day.

Chicken By-products: These are ground parts from poultry carcasses such as feet, heads, feathers, intestines, necks and undeveloped eggs and can included any rendered material.

Corn Products: Corn products including corn meal, gluten and grits are cheap, allergy causing fillers and are very difficult for animals to digest.

Food Fragments: Lower end by-products of the food manufacturing process, examples include wheat bran and brewers rice which are a waste product of the alcohol industry.

Ground Whole Grain Sorghum: The feed value of grain sorghum is similar to corn and is grown primarily as a feed grain for livestock.

Meat and Bone Meal: “Meat” and bone meal are inexpensive sources of animal protein. Note that these companies do not clarify the source of “meat”, nor are they human-grade meat. The protein in Meat meal containing a large amount of processed bone may not be digestible and fail to provide adequate nutrition.

Meat Based: A label that say "meat based" may also include blood vessels, tendons, organs and other parts of the rendered animal. Note again that these companies do not clarify the source of “meat”, nor are they human-grade meat products.

Meat By-products: Pet grade meat by-products consist of organs and parts not desired or not fit for human consumption. This can include organs, bones, blood and fatty tissue. It can also include brains, feet, heads, intestines and any other internal parts. Unbelievably, by-products can also contain cancerous or diseased tissue containing parasites.

Take a look for yourself

Don't let the colorful pictures and wording on these pet food manufacturer’s bags mislead you! How does your pet food ingredients stack up to quality ingredients found in our Holistic/human-grade
Cat foods and Dog foods

Below are links to some of the more popular pet foods on the market today, take a look for yourself and what they have listed as their ingredients.

Eukanuba Website:
www.rxpetfood.com

Iams Website:
www.iams.com

Purina Website:
www.purina.com

Purina Natural Blends Website:
www.naturalblends.com

Pedigree Website:
www.pedigree.com

Proplan Website:
www.proplan.com

Beneful Website:
www.beneful.com

Hills Science Diet:
www.hillspet.com

Menufoods
www.menufoods.com

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Chocolates bad for dogs...but why?

2010-02-16T17:13:00.001-06:00

Chocolate: Although many people are aware that chocolate is toxictoxictoxic to cats and dogs, it's something that is commonly left on a table or counter top. Dogs may tear into a box of candy when the opportunity presents itself. In large quantities, chocolate causes coma and death. In lesser quantities, it will cause gastrointestinal problems including diarrhea. The degree of toxicity depends on the weight of the animal and the amount and type of chocolate consumed. Semi-sweet and bakers chocolate, for instance, contain more theobromine than regular chocolate, making them even more toxictoxictoxic to animals. Dogs love chocolate, so don't let taste be a test of what is healthy. Anything containing cocoa or chocolate should be avoided.

Grapes & Raisins: Though it isn't clear to scientists just what makes grapes and raisins toxict oxic toxic to both cats and dogs, even a relatively small amount can damage the kidneys. For this reason it's unwise to feed these to your pet, even if small amounts are tolerated. Also avoid giving bits of cookie or other foods that contain raisins.

Garlic, Onions, and Powders: Whether fresh, cooked or powdered, garlic and/or onions can be found among the ingredients of many prepared meals, including baby foodfoodfood. Garlic and onions can be toxictoxictoxic to cats and dogs because sulfoxides and disulfides found in them can damage red blood cells and lead to anemia. Onions are more problematic than garlic, but both should be avoided. If preparing a meal for yourself that will contain garlic or onions, consider preparing a side portion without these ingredients for your animals.

Macadamia Nuts: Macadamia nuts are soft, light-colored nuts often used in cookie recipes. They are considered toxictoxictoxic to dogs because they tend to cause gastrointestinal upsets, lethargy, vomiting and muscle tremors or stiffness.

Mushrooms: Various species of mushrooms are toxictoxictoxic to dogs, and can cause shock and death. Effects will differ depending on the type ingested, but avoid feeding any type. Pluck "backyard mushrooms" that might sprout on the lawn, as these are known to be toxictoxictoxic to canines.

Tomatoes and tomato plants: Tomatoes of all kinds are toxictoxictoxic to cats, as are parts of the tomato plant. Ingesting as little as a cherry tomato can cause severe gastrointestinal upset.

Chicken Bones: Though not toxictoxictoxic, chicken bones can get stuck in the roof of the mouth, throat and intestines, and should be avoided, according to many veterinarians. Splinters of chicken bones can also become lodged internally.

Xylitol: This is a sugar substitute found in many types of candy, chewable vitamins, sugarless baked goods, and in sugarless gums like Trident™ and Orbit™. As little as three grams (e.g. about five pieces of gum) can kill a 65 pound dog, with smaller dogs succumbing to just one or two sticks. Within 15-30 minutes of ingesting xylitol a dog's insulin levels will surge and blood sugar levels will drop, resulting in lethargy and loss of balance. Permanent brain damage can occur and without treatment liver failure will result in death within 24 hours. Diabetics that might have sugarless baked goods or other sugarless products in the home should be especially careful to read all ingredients before sharing foodfoodfood.

If a dog should ingest a product that contains xylitol call your veterinarian or animal emergency services immediately. You might be instructed to induce vomiting if the dog is already having a reaction or if the office is more than 30 minutes away. Do not leave products containing xylitol within a dog's reach.

Other foods to avoid include raw potatoes, especially those containing green spots; turkey skin; nutmeg; and anything with caffeine, including tea. Alcohol and hops should also be avoided as alcohol poisoning can lead to coma and death. Do not allow your pet to rummage through the trash, as moldy foodfoodfood contains toxins that can cause serious illness.

Since many of the signs of toxicity are similar, consult your veterinarian without delay if your pet appears distressed, listless or in pain. Bloody stools or vomiting are also possible signs of toxictoxictoxic poisoning. Gastrointestinal problems can lead to gas build-up until the stomach becomes distended or bloated and hard to the touch. This is a painful condition that can cause the stomach to burst if not treated. The good news is that, in most cases, treatment for toxictoxictoxic poisoning can be successful if administered in time.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Does your dog have a personality?

2010-01-09T22:18:00.003-06:00

What is personality? And, can animals have personality? Personality is a set of attributes--such as sociability, aggressiveness, and willingness to please--that come together to form the social behavior of a species. What makes personality interesting is the variation of its expression among animals within a species, population, or social group. Scientists working on social behavior of birds or mammals are often struck by differences in personality among their study animals. This is particularly true of primates, canids, parrots and their relatives, crows and their relatives, and dolphins, but such variation can be found in a broad, and sometimes surprising, range of animals.

If personality varies among animals within a species, what function might this variation have? Variation may be the expression of different strategies, as predicted by game theory. Within this hypothesis, there are two possiblities. First, it may well be that success as a dominant animal calls for a different personality than does success as a subordinate, and expression of personality depends on status within the social group. In this type of system, an animal's personality may vary, depending on the circumstances. Second, personality may be fixed, genetically, for a given animal, but it may vary among individuals because strategies differ in their success, depending on environmental factors. If personality varies among animals, but is genetically fixed for an individual, then the study of personality lies within the realm of behavioral genetics.

Among non-human animals, personality is best known in chimpanzees and domestic dogs. In chimpanzees, personality is generally thought to be described by these variables (Weiss et al. 2000):

* Dominance
* Extraversion
* Dependability
* Emotional Stability
* Agreeableness
* Openness

The last five of these dimensions are thought to describe human personality (Bouchard 1994); their presence in both chimps and humans can be thought of as representing the shared evolutionary history of chimpanzees and humans. In both humans and chimpanzees, these personality traits have relatively high heritabilities and show virtually no effect of rearing environment. Human twins who are separated at birth and reared in very different environments show startling similarities in personality. In their study of chimpanzees, Weiss et al (2000) found a particularly strong heritability on social dominance, and weak heritabilities for the other dimensions of chimp personality. As in human studies of personality, Weiss et al. (2000) found little effect of environment (in this case, different zoos) on personality.

In dogs, Svartberg and Forkman (2002) identified the main variables describing personality:

* Playfulness
* Curiousity/fearlesness
* Desire to chase
* Sociability
* Aggressiveness

They suggest that the first four factors are all influenced by a single "broad" personality dimension, with aggressiveness working separately. This is, interestingly, quite parallel to the role of dominance in chimpanzee personality. Wilsson and Sundgren (1997)show that dog personalities have substantial heritable components, although their study isn't strictly comparable to Svartberg and Forkman's (2002) study, as they use different descriptors of personality.

In sum, personality in animals is real, measuable, and seems to be strongly influenced by genes. Variability in personality is, in a sense, genetic variability. This suggests that different personalities can be successful and persist in evolutionary time; if only one personality type were succcessful, natural selection would eliminate this variation.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Stop Barking Dog

2010-01-02T10:30:00.000-06:00

Does your dog bark every time the mail carrier arrives? And does he persist in barking even when you plead "no, no, stop, bad boy, no, stop..."?

Sometimes dogs continue their daily bursts of barking at the mail carrier because they think they're doing some useful work by protecting the home from this uniformed could-be intruder. So if you can consistently correct your dog when he gets ready to bark, you can teach him this is not an appreciated or acceptable activity.

* Figure out the key triggers of your dog's barking. Perhaps it's the mail carrier, children getting off the school bus, the neighbor coming out to mow his lawn, or daily joggers.

* If the dog's outside when these trigger events tend to occur, bring him inside before then. This way, he'll be less likely to bark when he is shielded from the opportunity. When he barks and the targets bypass or leave your property, this serves to reinforce the barking behavior. Your dog figures he did his job well. And let's face it...some dogs just like to hear themselves bark.

* If the dog's inside and barks at these trigger events, or is out for a walk, and starts focusing on a target for barking, give a sharp, immediate leash correction. Re-direct his attention to you. Try your hardest to catch and stop him before he emits his first bark at the target. Give the correction and command "NO BARK" or "QUIET." When he stops and attends to you, immediately praise him verbally. It also helps to carry tasty treats in your pocket to reinforce the praise.

* As you keep repeating this, he will soon learn that you don't want him to bark -- and that it is more pleasant for him if he resists temptation.

* The idea is to break the cycle of barking. To the dog, this cycle might well be perceived as, "Detect trigger person/event ... barkbarkbark ... feel good and useful and powerful ... the trigger person goes away ... my barking works great ... I'll do that again."

* Naturally, the sooner you start teaching "QUIET" or "NO BARK," the greater chance you'll have of averting or solving a barking problem.

* Some trainers recommend using a can filled with some pennies. However, other trainer/behaviorists believe this is training through intimidation vs. through gaining respect and understanding from the dog. Another approach that some swear involves using a barker breaker or shock collar. When the dog starts barking, the stand-alone barker breaker emits a piercing sound that makes humans' ears ache as well; the collar devices emit either a piercing tone or a light shock. Some people have claimed remarkable results from barker breakers/collars -- but others said their dogs were not deterred. Also, some fear that the collar models can affect the health of the dog because they emit electric currents. So you may wish to practice the previously described techniques listed above before considering shaker cans or bark-breaking devices.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Training Your Dog Not to Bolt Through Open Doors

2010-01-01T10:25:00.000-06:00

The best way to persuade your dog not to dash through doors is: do not let your dog make a successful dash through the door. Sounds obvious -- but countless dog people and their guests have accidentally let the dog out the door, giving the dog a taste of freedom that can be exhilarating, but fraught with danger. The dog does not realize this, but he could get hit by a car, get in a fight with another animal, get lost and hurt, knock over children, not to mention alienate your neighbors. Even after dogs who get hurt after an escape fail to remember the connection between door-darting and pain when spotting a new chance to dash out the door.

When a dog is allowed to dash out the door, this act reinforces the undesirable behaviors of ignoring the owner, crossing thresholds ahead of the owner, running out the door and running loose. Since the dog will enjoy the excitement of running loose and the opportunity to chase critters (and sometimes people) outside, the act of running free is instantly self-rewarding.

So do all you can to keep your dog from escaping, including teaching all household members and guests to not let the dog out -- and teaching the dog to sit and stay when near exit doors.

Steps to take:

* Establish a pact with all family members and housemates that everyone will keep the dog from escaping out doors. This means training the people and alerting all visitors to your home.

* Teach the Doggie Doorknob Rule. Explain to everyone living or visiting your home, especially children: do not turn the doorknob until you know where the dog is, and you are sure the dog can't get loose and run out the door.

* Tell visitors when they are preparing to leave your home not to open the door until your dog is secured. Make sure the dog is confined in another room, on a leash by your side, or taught reliably to "stay" or "wait."

* Do daily practice sessions to train the dog that he can never go out the door without your express permission. And/or take basic obedience classes, which will help you learn to keep your dogUs attention in an environment of distractions.

* Start by teaching the key commands of RSitS and "Stay." Remember, you must first teach the dog what the basic command words and hand signals mean before you work on training him not to run out doors. Dogs do not instinctively know what "Sit," "Stay," "Down" mean; their owners need to teach them. Also, your dog needs to have bonded with you before you begin obedience training sessions, or else he will not pay attention. First build your relationship with the dog, learn how to be a leader to your dog (see the Leadership tipsheets), teach him to pay attention to you (see the Watch Me tipsheet) and that it is rewarding to pay attention to you.

* During training sessions, do not have guests or other distractions until your dog demonstrates understanding and the need to obey the commands.

* Once the dog reliably obeys the basic commands, you can begin introducing distractions so that your dog will learn to listen to you even when there are other people and distractions around. Also, practice the commands in other locations, starting with other exit doors in your house.

* Make sure the puppy or dog gets to relieve himself before you start training sessions for sit and wait by the door. It is not fair to the dog or effective obedience training to practice when he really does have to "go outside."

* If you don't have mental control, you have to have physical control. So if your dog does not reliably obey you yet, he needs to be on lead, crated or baby gated away from exit doors.

* When guests arrive at your home, until your dog is totally, reliably trained, it's a good idea to keep your dog on a leash and by your side. That way, you can more effectively instruct her to "stay," "get back," "off" (which means no jumping). At the same time, this will keep your dog from running out the door.

* If you stop letting a dog escape out the door, and you teach your dog proper behavior, the dog is likely to stop trying to escape through doors. However, we should never let our guard down.

Next: several techniques for keeping your dog from darting through the door. Be sure to read through all of them, because each one contains valuable information.

(1)
Teach Stay with Verbal Command and Hand Signal From canine behavior specialist Kathy Graninger:

* Before you walk to the front door, put your dog in the "Sit" position far back from the door and tell him to "Stay!" Extend your arm in a traffic-cop "Stop" hand-signal. Walk towards the door.

* If she starts moving as you reach for the door knob, put your hand out in a "Stop" signal and firmly say "No...Stay!"

* If she gets up (don't wait until she follows you), take her back to the original spot and place her back in the "Sit" position. Firmly repeat the "Sit-Stay" command, while using the "Stop" hand signal.

* Practice until you can open the door slowly, while watching your dog, without your dog breaking the stay.

Teach the dog it is not acceptable, or rewarding, to try to run to the door. But remember: even if the dog gets the concept after practicing, the excitement of seeing new people will tempt her to break the stay command. Always watch your dogs.

(2a)
Teach Wait at Doors and Gates Using Positive Reinforcement: From "Teach Wait" by September Morn, in the June 2003 Dog Fancy.

"Wait" is a less formal command than "Stay."

* Go to the door with your dog on-leash. Say "wait," then reach for the doorknob.

* If your dog moves forward, remove your hand from the doorknob, pause, then try again. If your dog waits, praise and give treats.

* When you can touch the knob without your dog pushing forward, try opening the door a few inches.

* If your dog waits, praise and give treats. If your dog moves forward, close the door gently, pause, then try again.

* Repeat several times, opening the door wider each time. When your dog waits, praise and treat. If your dog moves forward, close the door, without treats and start over.

* When your dog waits several seconds with the door wide open, tell him, "OK, go ahead," and allow him to go through.

(2b)
Teaching Wait using Collar Correction: If the approach above does not work for a dog not motivated by praise and treats, Karin Anderson offers this alternative approach to training the "Wait" command:

Put a training collar and leash on the dog. Say "Wait" as you open the door. If the dog tries to go out, give him a leash correction say "WAIT!"

This conditions the dog to wait at the door and helps the dog learn to associate the opening of a door with something other than "go outside!" Eventually, with sufficient practice over time, no command will be necessary. This approach can also work if the door is accidentally opened.

(3)
Training Escape Artists to Not Want to Go Out the Door Without Permission Copyright 2000 by Meesoon Shirley Chong

Step One

You will have to repeat this step at several doors before your dog understands that the rule is not to go through any door to the outside without permission. Do this step at every exit in your home and anywhere else where your dog spends a significant amount of time off lead. (It is best to start with an exit door that leads to a fenced yard in case you have a slip-up.)

Put your dog on a six foot leash attached to a buckle or limited slip collar that you are sure your dog cannot escape from. If you know your dog is likely to chew a leash, buy one of those plastic coated steel cable tie-out leads to use in this exercise. You will also need a stopwatch or a watch with a second hand for this exercise. And you might want to have a chair next to the door you plan to use.

If you are doing this exercise in hot weather, make sure that the door you are using is in the shade so you donUt risk overheating your dog. If it's cold out, make sure it's not too cold for your dog.

When you are ready, silently open the door and let your dog dart through. Close the door on the leash, being careful not to catch your dog's tail. Keep an eye on your watch and leave your dog outside for 30 seconds. It's amazing how long 30 seconds can be, so use your timepiece to keep track of the time.

When the 30 seconds are up, open the door, let your dog come in and make a big fuss over him. Make sure your dog knows he has been traumatized -- ask him where he was, ask him if he was okay while he was gone, make your voice high pitched and anxious sounding. You want him to feel like he's had an unpleasant experience and you are sympathizing.

After you are done with the big reunion, silently open the door again. If your dog darts out again, let him. Close the door behind him (watching for that tail!) and leave him outside for one minute. When you open the door again, repeat the big fuss.

Keep silently opening the door and letting your dog out, doubling the amount of time you leave him outside each time. Be patient! Don't try to warn your dog to stay, don't try to prevent your dog from darting outside -- let him discover for himself what happens when he does so.

The time will come when you open that door and your dog stays in the house. Close the door again and CELEBRATE! Tell him you're happy with him, give him terrific cookies, play with him, hug him and generally have a doggie party.

After the big party, give your dog a few minutes to calm down and then repeat the exercise with the same door. Most dogs refuse to go through the door without permission but a few (often dogs who have a door darting habit) zip out again. Start the clock again at 30 seconds.

When you get to the point where your dog stands and looks out the open door without trying to dart through it, give your dog permission to go through. I use the word "okay" but any word (release signal) is fine as long as you use the same word and intonation consistently.

You may have to coax your dog through that door or actually go through it with him the first time. This is fine, this is what you want -- it is much safer for your dog to be reluctant to go through a door than it is to have him constantly watching for an opportunity to slip through.

Goal: when you open the door, your dog stands inside and waits for permission to go through the door.

Step Two

You will have to repeat this step at several doors before your dog understands that the rule is not to go through any door to the outside without permission. Do this step at every exit in your home and anywhere else where your dog spends a significant amount of time off lead.

Get or make a house line, which is an 8-10 foot length of cord knotted at one end. The other end is attached to your dog's collar by a snap or by tying it to his collar. Doesn't have to be fancy -- a plastic coated clothesline makes a fine houseline.

If you know that your dog is much faster than you, make a longer houseline -- most dogs can cope with a houseline as long as 25 feet.

Let your dog drag the houseline around the house for a few days whenever you are there. Take the houseline off whenever you are not there to supervise him. Just treat it in a very matter of fact manner; don't make a big fuss about it. Act as if it's just another one of your silly whims (like the way you throw away all that luscious garbage!).

When your dog is used to the houseline, repeat Step One with your dog dragging the houseline. Do not pick the houseline up with your hands, just step on it. You might want to do this with shoes on, rather than barefoot or wearing socks!

Goal: when you open the door, your dog stands inside and waits for permission to go through the door off lead (dragging the houseline).

Step Three

For this step, you need a helper -- someone to pretend to be a guest.

You will have to repeat this step at several doors and with a few different helpers before your dog understands that the rule is not to go through any door to the outside without permission. Do this step at every exit in your home and anywhere else where your dog spends a significant amount of time off lead.

Give your dog a review of Step Two with your helper standing next to you.

After your dog shows he remembers Step Two, have your helper open the door and walk through it. Be ready! About half of all dogs follow the helper right out the door. If your dog follows the helper, just step on the line as you shut the door.

Explain to your helper ahead of time that if your dog follows her out the door to keep on walking away from your dog and try to get out of a sight as soon as possible, either by walking around a corner or by getting into a car. When your dog's time outside is over, signal your helper to come back so you can try again.

Goal: your dog waits for permission to go through an exit, even if someone walks through the door ahead of him.

(4)
Training Your Dog Not to Bolt Through Open Doors

There is nothing scarier than to see your deaf dogs running ahead of you toward a door that was accidentally left or blown open. With just a little bit of work every day you can condition your dog to understand that an open door is *not* an invitation to go through it.

It's this simple:
Every time you (or even just your dog) are going through a door -- any door -- make him sit. Then open the door, but keep him in the sit position. If he stands up, close the door and make him sit again. Then do it again. Do this until he sits calmly at the open door -- then give him an "OKAY" signal to go through with you.

Do this with every door he goes through -- car doors, the door to his crate, etc. Do it every day and every time he has to go through a door.

If your dog charges out of his crate whenever you open it, make him sit before you open the door. If you start opening the door and he starts to bolt, slam the door shut in his face! You won't hurt him, but you will confuse him.

Do this until he doesn't bolt out of his crate until YOU say it's okay. Do the same thing with the car door, both in and out. Do this when you go to your training classes -- at the house door, the car door (in, then out), at the training facility (in and out), back to the car and at the house door. Do this at your backyard gate, too, even if you don't regularly go through it -- your meter reader and delivery people are infamous accomplices in dog escapes!

I can't stress how important it is that your dog automatically sits for the door and waits for you to tell him it's okay to pass through -- all the time, every time. Once he gets the idea, make it tougher on him.

Put him on a long lead (10 foot or more), make him sit for the door, open it, and you walk through, leaving him behind. If he follows you, put him back and start over. If you use correction methods, give him a correction before you put him back. He'll get the message rather quickly.

If you do sit-stays and down-stays in obedience, practice them at home in doorways. Put the dog on a long lead drag line (and be ready to grab it or step on it if he bolts!). Put him in a stay a few feet away from the door and open it. Walk in and out. Walk away from the door behind the dog (close to the line so you can step on it), so the dog is between you and the door. Praise him profusely if he maintains the stay.

Keep up on this routine all the time -- once they have the idea that they can't go out for potty or a walk or training or ball playing unless they sit calmly and wait to be invited through the door, it takes no time at all. Of course, at first you have to make allowances for the time it takes to settle them.

Don't fret if people think you are being a control freak. Be proud of it! Someday your dog *will* encounter an open door that he shouldn't go through and you will be thankful. If you start getting lazy, just picture in your mind turning into your hallway or coming down the stairs with your dog ahead of you -- and the front door is wide open. It happened to me and my dogs stopped dead and sat. Sure beats being stopped dead by a car in the road.

So, why not just let him bolt out of his crate? If you're traveling on the road, it's really great to have your dog sit there quietly in his crate while you put his leash on. What if a stranger decided to release your dog? Or a little child wanted to pet the doggie? What if you had guests over and he's a jumper or a biter? Guests are notorious for accidentally releasing dogs.

Why in and out of the car? Because your dog could easily escape...even be stolen if he jumps into any open car door. Did you ever have your dog jump out of your open car door before you had your hand on his leash? It's much better to know he will wait for you to be ready to take him out of the car.

There are a thousand reasons to train your dogs this way, and you don't have to go out of your way to do it. It can save his life.

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And don't forget...

* If your dog escapes, never scold him when you finally get him. Dogs associate reactions to what they just did in the last few seconds. If you scold a dog when you catch him, youUre actually teaching him not to let you catch him.

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At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

New Years Eve Stress Reducers for your Pet!

2009-12-31T08:33:00.002-06:00

As New Years Eve approaches, it is important to encourage pet owners to prepare for their pets' sake--and safety. The loud noises during this holiday traumatize many animals during the holiday celebrations. Fireworks, aircraft, and other related racket may turn pets into a quivering mass of jelly, or have them bolt as a result of their fright; they may also be destructive to the home, or even worse, to themselves.

There are ways to desensitize a pet to fireworks and related noise, but it takes time and preplanning. If this holiday is right around the corner, there are a couple of things owners can do to assist their pets through this short period of potential trauma.

Author and animal behaviorist, Diana L. Guerrero said, "First people have to understand that 'comforting' their pet, although done with good intentions, can actually reinforce the fear and panic. You could call it 'training by accident' so it is best to refrain from that activity."

She clarified, "Reassuring your pet is different from the cuddling, petting, holding, and trying to physically relieve the stress. It is best to soothe your pet by your tone of voice and by remaining calm. My students are taught to use key phrases to alert the pet to inappropriate behavior first, then they encourage calm acceptable behavior from the pet." The age of your pet, socialization, experience, and breed can also influence their reactions.

The best preparations, that you can use at such short notice, is to make sure that your pet has ID tags with current information on them, and that they are safely secured both before and through the holiday period.

Guerrero suggests a few other quick temporary options:

•crate your pet at home
•kennel the pet professionally
•keep the pet confined/restrained indoors
•use drug therapy (tranquilizers/anti-anxiety medications as prescribed from your veterinarian)
•use alternative therapy (your holistic veterinarian or therapist will provide a list)
•play classical music or jazz to soothe pets and camouflage other noises
Ideally your home environment is the best holding area for your pet. It is suggested that you put your animal in a quiet room or into a crate. Guerrero said, "Confinement or crates serve as a 'den' for your pet and will help them to feel more secure--if this is trained right and done gradually there is a good association with the confinement. Even without advance preparation they can be good tools for emergencies."

Long periods alone in a crate should be avoided. Some dogs will not like being confined if you do this too quickly and many will protest by howling, whining, barking, and pitching a fit.
If you have the time, it is best to gradually train pets to "crate." Put food or a treat in the kennel with the door secured in an open position.

Later, work at closing the door for a few seconds and praising them for staying in confinement quietly. Gradually lengthen the time spent in the crate with you there, and then with you leaving

the room. Guerrero suggests, "Crates that contain solid sidings with air vents work better than the wire ones. Wire crates tend to be more open and feel less secure and your pet could damage their teeth on them more easily."

If you are using a room in the home, the best one to restrain an animal in is the bathroom, laundry room, or secure garage. The room to choose is one where there are no windows to jump through, or where they can be blocked off, and are too high and narrow to access.

Guerrero said, "Also try to darken the room and crate. Be sure to play soothing music at a level that helps drown out the firework noise. It is ideal if a family member can be at home with the animal through this time. These are the types of things that will help most pets feel more secure and calm."

Before the holiday, be aware that fireworks may be set off before dark. Keep your dog on a leash when toileting, and make sure that your pets have on a secure collar with the name and phone number of the veterinarian, and owners. Put your pets "to bed" early before celebrations and the fireworks start.

Always check with your veterinarian and behavior specialist before using any drugs or tranquilizers, and don't forget to watch out for guests opening doors up which can provide an opportunity for animals to bolt outdoors.

For further help, Guerrero encourages you to contact your veterinarian or your local animal behavior specialist prior to the holiday.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Marking - Understanding It, Stopping It

2009-12-30T08:28:00.000-06:00

Contents:
1. Overview
2. Canine Territorial Marking
3. Marking vs. Peeing: Medical or Behavioral?
4. On the Mark...Get Set... How to Stop Marking
5. Odor Elimination
6. Related Resources

1. Overview

Dogs gather essential social information using their sense of smell, whether smelling other dogs directly or sniffing their urine and feces. That's why dogs urinate much more than required to simply empty their bladder.

Marking serves as a way to claim territory, advertise mating availability and to support the social order. Dogs like hierarchy; it's what they understand. They communicate age, gender and status within their packs via the pheromones in urine. Both male and female animals can engage in marking behavior.

A dog uses urine marking to help make a new environment smell like home, masking the unfamiliar odors with his own scent. Humans also engage in marking behavior, though it usually takes such forms as moving in a favorite chair and hanging pictures on the wall.

In addition, marking functions as an efficient way to protect a dog's perceived space than physically challenging each interloper who approaches that space.

Animals also mark to advertise their sexual availability, which is one reason why it helps to neuter and spay dogs. The earlier, the better, since early neutering can keep young dogs from ever developing the impulse to mark.

Urinating in the house and other inappropriate areas can also be a sign of urinary tract disease, so take your dog to the vet before ruling out this possibility.

Urinating in the house can also stem from lack of housetraining or lack of an appropriate place to urinate, or having to hold it longer than the dog can physically wait. Consider having someone visit your dog for a mid-day walk if you work long hours.

2. Canine Territorial Marking

By Myrna Milani, BS, DVM. Originally written for DogWatch, a newsletter for the general public from the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

Q. My dog urinates in numerous locations in my house, which I've been told is territorial marking. The only place she's never gone is in my bed. On the other hand, my cousin's dog only urinates in his bed and he was told that's territorial marking, too. How can these two opposite behaviors mean the same thing?

A. To understand the variations that may occur in marking behavior, we first need to understand territorial behavior itself. Recall that establishing and protecting the territory serves as the primary animal priority. The wild dog pack's territorial nature leads its members to claim an area large enough to support them and any offspring, but not one so large that it requires excessive energy to adequately defend it. Within that space, the animals also protect certain prime locations - such as choice feeding sites and dens - more diligently than areas at the periphery.

However, because the ultimate goal remains to find food and water and reproduce, it makes sense to leave a token marker - such as scent-laden urine that communicates the resident's willingness to protect this space if necessary - rather than actually physically challenging every suspicious interloper who approaches that space. Moreover, because marking itself requires energy, it also makes sense only to mark as much as is necessary to get the job done.

Because animals communicate their sex and status in the pheromones in their urine, that typically means that the most vigorous animals in the pack do most of the marking because they pose the most threat to any interloper. (Imagine seeing a warning posted by the local police versus one posted by the third grade garden club: Which one would you take more seriously?) Thus, marking serves as a marvelously efficient way to avoid confrontations.

While a certain energy-efficient elegance underlies territorial theory when applied to a pack of wild animals, an individual pet's personality, the quality of its environment, and its relationship with its owner may throw numerous curves into the process. Pet dogs living in complex human environments may find themselves trying to reach some sort of a workable compromise between the ancient drive to establish and protect a territory, and their own temperaments and any physical or other limitations that would make doing this a threatening endeavor.

Under these circumstances, pets typically mark either that space they feel comfortable protecting or that which carries such a positive charge they'd risk injury or even death to protect it. In general, the less confident the dog and the more complex the environment, the more likely marking will occur, the more frequently it will occur, and the more it will involve intimate objects.

For example, Josie, a well-trained, stable dog who lives on a quiet, dead-end street feels no need to make any territorial statements beyond the messages communicated in her daily eliminations. Sandy, who lacks Josie's confidence plus lives in a busy suburb, lifts his leg on prominent fence posts and trees around the perimeter of his owner's yard in an effort to scare off invaders. More timid Bumpus marks by the front and back doors, his way of saying he only claims (and thus only feels obligated to protect) what's inside the house. Tuffy marks the upstairs hallway, effectively announcing his desire to protect all of his beloved owners' sleeping quarters. Little Sugar only marks her owner's belongings, and all of these except the bed. Her litter mate, Spice, only marks her owner's bed.

Additionally some pets will mark any new objects added to their territories, thereby claiming them and thus ruling out the need for a confrontation. Again, more confident animals may pee on the tires of the visitor's vehicle, whereas those who feel more vulnerable may pee on the visitor's belongings, or even the visitor himself.

In the majority of these cases, though, the marking exists because, due to a lack of training and other human displays that communicate leadership, owners have deliberately or unwittingly thrust this protective role upon their pets. Unfortunately, owners who don't understand what the animal communicates via the display - i.e., its fear and willingness to fight to protect this sacred space - often view the pet as spiteful, mean, or stupid for ruining their belongings. While attributing such negative emotions to perfectly logical canine behaviors always ranks as a tragedy, it's particularly sad in the case of very young, timid, or geriatric animals who believe they must protect their owners from the meter reader, school bus, and letter carrier day after day and endure the owner's wrath, too. (The dog does not understand it, and the owner's anger adds to the dog's confusion.)

On the other hand, once caring owners understand what causes the behavior, they can relieve their pets of the territorial stresses that cause the problem.

3. Canine Marking versus Peeing: A Medical or a Behavioral Problem?

By Myrna Milani, BS, DVM. Originally written for DogWatch, a newsletter for the general public from the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

Q. I travel a lot in my work and after I returned from a two-week trip, I discovered that my 6-year-old, spayed Chihuahua mix, Chili, has been peeing on the corner of my bed. Some people tell me it's a medical problem while others say it's behavioral. She's a little baby as well as my best friend and I want to do what's best for her, but I'm confused.

A. Approaching any problem that involves inappropriate urination as if it possesses both medical and behavioral components yields better results than taking an either/or approach. And both medical and behavioral components may elicit or result from bond issues which deserve attention, too.

To understand why this might be, let's first view Chili's problem as strictly medical. In that case, conditions such as a hormone deficiency, urinary tract infection, or some problem that causes her to drink more (such as diabetes) may cause her to accidentally urinate on her owner's bed, and a medical work-up will pinpoint the cause.

However, any medical problem that results in inappropriate elimination automatically sets her up for behavioral problems on two fronts. First, once Chili soils the bed, the scent of the urine may cause her to continue urinating there after any physical problem is resolved. Second, if her physical ailment makes her feel vulnerable and less able to protect her territory, she may begin marking her owner's bed to communicate this sentiment, too.

On the other hand, suppose Chili begins marking the bed because something threatens her during her owner's absence. Perhaps the pet-sitter her owner hired brings his own dog along, or maybe a noisy construction project begins in the apartment downstairs. In this case, the urine on the bed communicates, "Go away! I'll fight to protect this!" to whatever sound, scent, and/or sight frightens the little dog. While such a message would seem to signal great courage, in reality animals who mark within their owners' home communicate exactly the opposite: They really don't want to fight at all and hope any intruder will catch a whiff of that message and run. Because the pet-sitter's dog and the construction crew do, in fact, go away every day, as far as Chili's concerned, the marking works and she continues doing it.

How could this behavior set Chili up for medical problems? Well, we know that frightened dogs may mark their territories numerous times daily. We also know that dogs who feel insecure in their space may only eat and drink the minimum amount. We also know that stress elevates blood cortisol, a hormone from the adrenal glands, which can undermine the immune response. And, finally, we know that dogs caught up in protecting their space may not take time to groom themselves properly after eliminating. Putting these altogether, we can see how a stressed dog with a depressed immune response who repeatedly squats and eventually strains to urinate who also lacks the time to practice proper post-elimination hygiene could wind up with a urinary tract infection which would cause her to eliminate as well as mark in inappropriate places.

Additionally, the relationship between owner and dog often leads the animal to attach a strong emotional charge to the owners' bed. Practically all bed-marking occurs in dog-centered human-canine packs in which the dog feels obligated to protect the territory. Depending on the dog's personality, the bed may serve as the first or last target.

Further complicating the bond effects, regardless when and why the mess on the bed appears, owners who discover dog-doo in their beds rarely react neutrally, let alone positively, to it. However, dogs who eliminate on the bed in no way communicate that they are spiteful, mean, or stupid; they communicate that they have a medical, behavioral, and bond problem that requires an immediate, knowledgeable, and caring response. Yelling at the dog or punishing it will simply make the problem worse.

Instead, take your pet for a long walk to calm down and consider all the different reasons that could lead to this behavior. That mess on the bed could turn out to be a goldmine of information about your pet's health and behavior, and your relationship.

4. ON THE MARK! GET SET! NEUTER! Marking Elimination Program

The following marking elimination guidance is adapted from the GreatPets.com article by Sarah Wilson.

Even if a pup or dog is well bonded to the owner, he might not see the owner as the leader of the pack. A young dog having a bold, assertive temperament might be more prone to marking behavior. Sarah Wilson suggests the following steps for establishing leadership and eliminating marking behavior for such dogs. This program puts the person in the leadership role in a positive, nonconfrontational way.

Sleeps in his crate.
Where a dog sleeps is of much status-related import. Sleeping ON your bed makes him your equal. Also, being on a physically elevated level can fuel a dog's perception that he is top dog, even over the people of the house. So keep the dog off your bed and other people furniture. If the pup is assertive, have him sleep in his crate in the kitchen during the behavior modification program.

Works for a living.
Most dogs were originally bred to perform certain jobs, and this remains in their nature from generations of breeding. Generally, either you give them work or they make up their own. A young dog might make up a game called "Taking over the house one wet spot at a time". Have the dog sit or down for EVERYTHING - every door opening, every pat, every word.

Avoid spanking and other punishment.
Dogs typically do not make the connection that the owner is hitting them because they marked. It is better and more effective to educate instead of punish. Wilson notes that spanking a dog for marking only makes him think you did NOT get the point last time, so he marks AGAIN and more clearly. He may defecate as well. "There" he says to himself "Surely, they will get THAT message!" Instead of punishing, you must take steps to change the relationship and establish that you are leader.

Supervision.
One wet spot and it is house arrest for four to six weeks. That means in sight, on lead or crated (or otherwise confined to a safe, puppy-proofed area). No exceptions.

Neuter!
Leg lifting and marking can be resistant to change, though, when marking at a young age, or when new to your home, the dog may just be trying out his wings or testing the boundaries. In any case, Sarah Wilson calls neutering one of the absolute first steps to controlling marking as well as other problems. Done early, neutering can help you avoid such problems altogether.

Trainer Cinimon Clark adds that neutering alone will probably not eliminate territorial marking if this is a learned behavior. This is why neutering before a dog reaches maturity or comes into heat (typically by age six months) is such a good idea. Neutered early enough, the dog will not learn marking behavior.

Adds vet Chris Cook, a neutered or spayed dog is a happier, healthier, more behaviorally balanced dog. After neutering, it takes a few weeks for the affected hormones to stop circulating.

In dogs neutered at a mature age, the marking may have become a learned, habitual behavior and will need behavior modification. Also, if you have an intact (unspayed) female in the house, this may add to the difficulties of breaking the habit.

In his article "To Pee or Not to Pee", Dr. Ian Dunbar explains that female dogs urine mark, some even raising a leg when doing so. When in heat, the female uses marking to broadcast her reproductive state to prospective suitors. For reproductively intact female and male dogs, urine communicates, attracts and arouses. Thus, another good reason to spay and neuter.

Another tip: some canine behavior specialists recommend that, particularly if the dog displays dominance and/or has aggression issues with other dogs, to discourage the dog from marking objects (fences, gates, signposts, bushes, etc.) when walking. Of course, allow the dog to relieve himself or herself. But if the dog is marking to claim an increasingly larger territory, try to discourage this behavior.

5. Odor elimination

It is extremely important to get rid of the odor the dog has left with previous markings. Use a specially formulated urine odor eliminator in all areas that have been marked. Remember that urine soaks through carpet to the padding, so try to clean the padding too...or replace as necessary. Do not use ammonia or other standard household cleaners, since some will leave odors that many pets will feel compelled to mark upon. In addition to Simple Solution available in stores

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

2009-12-29T22:21:00.001-06:00

Allergies to Pets?

2009-12-29T08:07:00.000-06:00

Studies show that 10 to 15% of the U.S. population is allergic to companion animals. Even so, the National Institutes of Health estimates that 25% of people with allergy- and asthma-related health problems keep pets in their home. And the Humane Society of the United States estimates that one-third of Americans who are allergic to cats live with at least one cat anyway. In a study of 341 adults who were allergic to cats or dogs and had been advised by their physicians to give up their pets, only one out of five did. Furthermore, 122 of them obtained another pet after a previous one had died.

Evidently, many people believe the benefits of pet companionship outweigh the hardships of pet allergies.

For people with allergies, living comfortably with a companion animal requires knowledge about allergies and allergy management -- and willingness to follow some sensible, practical rules.

Facts about Allergies to Companion Animals

* Fur is not the problem. Many people still wrongly assume that animal allergies are caused by pet fur or feathers. In reality, allergies are triggered and aggravated by proteins secreted by oil glands and shed with dander ... proteins in saliva, which adheres to fur when animals lick themselves ... and proteins in urine. Dander is the microscopic particles of skin, fur and hair that animals continually shed. Such proteins and other substances that cause an individual's immune system to react are called allergens.

* Allergens are tiny particles that can be easily transferred via air, physical contact and other means. As noted, animal allergens are present in dander, saliva, urine and secretions on feathers (thus, people can be allergic to many different species). By the way, compounding the dander on pets is the saliva left behind when the animal licks himself.

* Of course, there are dozens of allergens from non-animal sources, including molds, mildew, pollen, ragweed and so on.

* When the allergens land on the lining of the eyes and nose, and/or are inhaled into the lungs, allergic symptoms result. Typical symptoms are sneezing, runny nose, itchy swelling eyes and congestion. For some allergic individuals, allergen contact with the person's skin may also cause itching and hives. Some people experience potentially life-threatening asthma attacks as their airways become closed by the allergic reactions.

The severity of reaction to these allergens varies from one person to the next, ranging from mild sniffling to severe asthma, and are very often compounded by allergies to other allergens and irritants in the environment.

Symptoms often occur quickly within minutes after exposure to allergens. For some people, the bodily reactions may build up over several hours and be most severe 12 hours after they have discontinued contact with the animal.

* Contrary to popular belief, there are no "non-allergenic" breeds of dogs or cats. While some people believe that the tightly woven fur of breeds such as poodles and bichon frises limits the shedding of allergen-laden dander, other people have had allergic reactions even to fur-less breeds. In fact, one dog or cat of a particular breed may be more irritating to an individual allergy sufferer than another animal of that same breed. Size can be a factor, since a large dog would logically shed more dander than a toy breed.

* Typically, allergic folks are more sensitive to and display more severe reactions to cats than to dogs.

* Individuals who are allergic to animals can suffer symptoms whether or not an animal is present. In fact, even when the pet no longer resides in the home, his or her allergens remain as particles, often at levels that can continue to trigger allergic symptoms.

* For pet lovers, it is not only possible, but essential, to find an allergy specialist who understands your commitment to living with an animal companion. A good allergy specialist can develop a plan to help manage the allergy/asthma and prevent episodes. A combination medical control of symptoms, good housecleaning, designation of a pet-free zone and careful pet handling practices (such as washing hands, hugging/nuzzling restrictions) is usually effective, enabling an allergic person to live with pets. Effective measures follow.

Handling and Grooming Pets

* Whenever possible, have someone other than the allergic person handle pet grooming, litterbox and pet cage/carrier maintenance, and house cleaning chores. Remember, animal allergens are present in dander, saliva and urine.

* If the allergic person has to groom the pet, he or she should wear a dust-filtering mask. It's smart to use such masks when cleaning the house or painting. Wearing gloves can also help. In any case, wash hands immediately afterwards, before there's a chance of rubbing nose or eyes, or touching the mouth, with allergen-laden hands.

* After handling animals, the allergic person should immediately wash hands and arms. This will prevent the spread of allergens to the nose, eyes and mouth, thus greatly reducing the chance of an allergic episode. It won't hurt to wash your face at the same time.

* Try to comb and brush pets outside, or on a hard floor. Then mop, sweep up or vacuum the area immediately after brushing. If the person doing the cleaning has allergies, he or she should avoid inhaling the particles and wash hands right afterwards.

* After close handling, or exposure to a pet in someone else's home, try to bathe or shower and put your clothes into the laundry.

* There are allergens outdoors, from pollen to ragweed, that get on pets' coats. So after walking or playing outdoors, you can avoid problems by combing and brushing the dog upon returning to the house.

* Also, times of excitement or stress lead to increased shedding, so brush the dog in response.

* Bathing pets weekly can reduce the level of allergens on fur by as much as 84%, according to the Humane Society of the United States. You may not need to bathe your pet each week, but it might help to bathe the pet at least monthly, and weekly if the pet tends to shed a lot of dander or get dirty. Use a mild soap. One good homemade formula: combine liquid Joy dishwashing soap, white vinegar and glycerin. Some cat folks use simple distilled water. Others use baby shampoo to neutralize dander and saliva, and reduce shedding.

Be sure, though, to monitor your pet's coat. Bathing too frequently will dry the pet's skin and may increase shedding of dander. Other folks find that frequent brushing also helps by distributing oil throughout the coat while removing loose fur and skin flakes.

* Brush a pet's fur after a bath and apply a gentle moisturizer or conditioner.

* Between baths you can rub down the pet (particularly helpful after walks and romps outdoors) with a damp paper towel or better yet, the special allergy wipes now available online and at many pet supply stores. This measure will remove loose fur and dander along with any outside allergy-triggering substances that may hitchhike on the pet's fur. If tap water irritates your pet's skin, switch to distilled water (a good choice even if your pet's skin is not sensitive).

Cleaning

* Dust frequently, using damp cloths to prevent the rerelease of particles into the home environment.

* Pickup products: There are special disposable wipes sold by pet product companies that provide a handy way to remove loose fur. Also, tape pickup rolls and similar devices remove fur from clothes, bedding, draperies. Other handy items: disposable dusting cloths and mitts that pick up fur using electrostatic attraction, and static breaker devices that release the static charge that bonds pet fur to rugs and furnishings.

* Vacuum using HEPA/micro filters or double bags. Dispose of bags before they get overly full. Allergic people should avoid handling vacuum bags.

* Operate the furnace or central air conditioning fan continuously for at least two hours after vacuuming.

* People with serious respiratory allergies and asthma should wear a mask to filter the air when grooming the dog or cleaning the house.

* Clean areas where the pet sleeps, plays and eats twice a week.

* Wash pet bedding frequently in hot water. Same goes for people bedding. Detergent for sensitive skin is recommended.

* Aim to clean litterboxes daily. Either a non-allergic person should handle such chores, or the allergic person should wear a face mask ... and of course, wash hands immediately afterwards.

* Wash rubber, plastic and other hard-surfaced pet toys in the sink with mild soap and hot water to remove saliva, which, containing protein, is an allergen. Rinse with clean water and dry with a clean, soft cloth.

* Carpet and room deodorizers and baking soda can reduce and eliminate pet odors. You can place a fabric softener sheet sealed in an envelope under a sofa cushion where pets tend to sit or beneath car seats to help keep those areas smelling fresh -- but make sure to keep these sheets out of the reach of children and pets to prevent accidental ingestion.

* When possible, have a non-allergic person handle cleaning chores.

Environmental Control

* Keep pets out of the allergic person's bedroom; make it an allergen-free zone. For increased protection, use a high-efficiency HEPA air cleaner in this bedroom.

* Elsewhere in the home, keep them off beds and other furniture. When pets get on furniture, they leave behind proteins that act as allergens, triggering allergic reactions in allergy sufferers.

* If your pets tend to sneak on furniture when you're not home, cover couches and chairs with attractive, washable throws. Then wash the throws frequently.

* As much as possible, keep pets out of rooms with carpets and upholstered furniture, since it's harder to remove dander particles from fibers and fabrics.

* Many people report that air filters and air purifiers are an immense help. The many choices available today include ionic, electronic and HEPA filter models. These appliances remove most airborne particles. To choose the right model, consider the size of the room or space in which the air filtration unit will be placed, the number of times per hour the air will be completely cycled, and the size of the particles the system will handle (the smaller, the better).

Remember to change the filters frequently. You may want to use one in the allergic person's bedroom and another, higher-capacity unit for the main living area in the home.

* Place filters on air ducts. Use higher grade air handler filters, such as pleated electrostatic types that you should change at least every two months; monthly is better. Many people find the permanent, washable electrostatic models even more effective.

* Replace fabric upholstered furniture with non-fabric alternatives when possible.

* Replace carpeting with tile, wood, vinyl or other hard flooring. This makes cleaning easier. Carpet holds dust, dander and other allergens that are very hard to remove even with diligent vacuuming, as these particles work down into the fibers and get into the underlying carpet pad. If you have wall-to-wall carpeting, periodic steam cleaning is recommended.

* The more washable surfaces and materials in the home, the better. Use curtains that can easily come down for a wash every couple of months. Avoid heavy carpets and draperies, overstuffed furniture, dust-collecting blinds, and accessories that tend to attract dander and dust. For example, rough textured fabrics tend to hold allergens.

* Special impermeable pillow and mattress covers help not only people allergic to dust mites, but also those sensitive to other allergens, since allergen particles can easily be brought into the room on clothes and other objects. At the very least, use bedding and comforters that are easy to wash. And again, allergic folks should not allow pets on beds and other furniture.

* Avoid use of aerosols, sprays, paints, insecticides, chemicals, epoxy, and heavy fragrances in the home, especially when the allergy sufferer is home. And of course, ban smoking in the home. These irritants trigger allergy symptoms and compound the effects of allergens such as pet dander, dust mites and pollen.

* Don't use flea bombs, which have triggered serious attacks in asthma sufferers.

* Move litterboxes away from air filtration intake vents to prevent circulating allergens throughout the central air handling system.

* Unless the allergic family member is very sensitive to outdoor allergens, or the outdoor air is polluted or has high levels of seasonal allergens, open windows once in awhile to refresh the indoor air.

* Air circulation and ventilation is helpful. But do not use ceiling fans, since they stir up dust, molds and dander.

* Clean window air-conditioning units and humidifiers regularly to avoid growth of molds and mildew.

* Use a toweled or damp towel to remove dirt, mud and other grime from pet paws before they can track it inside the house. Wipe your own hands, too.

* Putting doggie sweaters and similar clothing on a dog can help control the release of dander, reduce shedding, and protects the pet's skin from indoor and outdoor climate conditions (which in turn has allergy symptom-abating benefits, since better health can mean less potent dander and oil secretions). Remember to wash doggie clothes, as well as fabric collars, from time to time.

* By the way, keep in mind that fatigue and stress can weaken one's immune system, which in turn can aggravate allergies.

Nutritional Strategies

* You can feed your pet essential vitamins, nutrients and fatty acid supplements with Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids to help the skin retain moisture. This often reduces shedding.

* Poor skin health can result from feeding a lower quality food or food that contains something the dog may be allergic to. For example, typical foods sold in regular grocery stores contain fillers that can disagree with canine digestion and lead to increased shedding and skin flaking. So feed pets high quality food. Also, avoid foods filled with corn and wheat.

* Also, if your pet has any skin problems, get your pet examined by vet. The cause could be a treatable hormonal or thyroid problem, or mange, or bacterial dermatitis, or fleas. Whatever the problem, you'll want to get it treated, since such conditions will hurt the dog's health while amping up the potency of the allergens in his dander, saliva and urine.

Banishing pets outdoors? Why this is bad advice

For years, some doctors have dispensed the pat, and bad, advice to keep pets outdoors to avoid allergic reactions. If a family member is allergic to animals, having animals in the house can lead to allergic reactions. However, as studies have shown, allergens will exist inside the home even if pets no longer live there. Plus spending long periods outdoors will affect the health of the pet, leading to more dander and body chemistry changes that will make him a more potent allergy trigger -- in addition to the dirt, pollen, ragweed, grass and other outdoor allergens that will accumulate on his body. When household members interact with the dog, they will carry these allergens back into the house.

And of course, living outdoors is no place for a companion animal. Exiling a dog outdoors is bad for the dog and detrimental to the relationship between the dog and family members. For details, see the Dog Tip about dogs kept outdoors, which contain links to other important webpages. It's at http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_BackyardDogs.php

More Allergy Facts and Findings: Putting Things in Perspective

* Individuals with allergies and allergy-induced asthma are allergic to more than one allergen (substances triggering the body's reaction). Other allergens include mold, mildew, pollen, dust and dust mites, plants, foods, cosmetics. Allergy sufferers can have varying degrees of sensitivity to different allergens. Whether someone displays symptoms depends on how many of the offending allergens are in the environment at the same time; in combination, they can exceed the individual's allergy threshold, triggering allergic reactions.

* It's easy for doctors to make the generic, age-old recommendation to "get rid of pets." However, even when it's certain that a person is allergic to dog or cat dander, saliva and urine, it's wrong to assume that eliminating an animal will free the person from future symptoms. Clearly, it's important to be aware of all of the individual's allergy triggers and take steps to minimize exposure. Other measures should be tried before giving up a family pet.

* Many families have described the sad experience of giving up a pet on the recommendation of a physician, only to find out that the child (or other family member) still experiences allergic reactions. They wish they had first tried other measures to manage the family member's allergy.

* While there are some situations in which the allergic person suffers such severe symptoms that rehoming the pet is among the steps necessary, in more cases, the allergy sufferer and pet can coexist comfortably in the same household by taking sensible, practical measures.

* In recent years, science has advanced the understanding and management of allergies and asthma, enabling most families to keep pets in the home. Successful management combines good hygiene, diligent cleaning, air quality management, sensible pet handling, and prudent use of safe, effective medications.

* Find an allergy specialist who understands your commitment to living with your pet. Your specialist will develop a plan to help manage the allergy/asthma and prevent allergic episodes.

* Regardless of exposure to animals, a good allergy management plan includes prescription medications. Great strides have been made in allergy and asthma medicines in recent years, so be sure to consult with an allergy/asthma specialist. Medical treatments for pet allergy symptoms include steroid and antihistamine nose sprays and pills. Asthma management typically involves a combination of preventive and symptom control medications, often in inhaler form.

* Allergy sufferers should always keep their medications on hand and make sure to refill prescriptions before the expiration dates. Don't wait for symptoms to get out of hand. Use medications as prescribed to prevent the onset of problems, from sneezing, coughing and other respiratory symptoms to the airway constriction associated with asthma.

* Reactions to airborne allergens tend to peak between 4 a.m. to 10 a.m., so it's advisable to take medications before bedtime.

* Studies indicate that immunotherapy can improve but usually not eliminate allergic symptoms. Cat and dog allergen immunotherapy appears to work better in cases where the patient has only occasional, unavoidable exposure, rather than in cases where the animal stays in the home all of the time.

* Giving up a pet without making a committed effort to first try other measures teaches children that pets are disposable. It also sends messages of helplessness and that there's only one way to solve a problem. And all too often, giving up the pet does not solve the allergy problem. Particularly when the allergic symptoms persist, the child shares a feeling of failure. If the child shared a bond with the animal, the loss will also serve as an unhappy life-lesson. Parting with a beloved animal companion is an emotionally wrenching experience.

Recent Animal Allergy Research Studies

* Very early exposure to animals can have positive benefits. Being around cats and dogs during infancy may actually reduce the chances that a child will develop allergies later in life, according to a 2001 Swedish study of 412 children. The children were given relatively painless skin prick tests for allergies at age 7 years and again at age 12. Of those children who were not around cats or dogs during the first year of life, nearly 9 percent developed asthma, compared to about 3 percent of children who were around pets. Allergies also developed in nearly 9 percent of children in the no-pet group vs. about 6 percent in the pet group. The researchers concluded that exposure to pets during infancy might have a protective effect on later allergy development.

In a 2003 study of 2,500 children, allergist Thomas Platts-Mills of the University of Virginia and Swedish researchers found that the longer children had pets when they are young -- ideally during their first two years -- the lower their frequency of having pet allergies is years later. The children were tested for allergies between ages 7 and 8 and again four years later. Children who continually owned pets were less likely to have pet dander allergies than new pet owners or those who had only been exposed earlier in life. In fact, of those who proved to be allergic to cats, 80% never had a cat at home.

A study the prior year found babies raised in a home with two or more dogs or cats were up to 77% less likely to develop various types of allergies at age 6 than kids raised without pets. Besides pet allergies, those children were less likely to develop reactions to dust mites, ragweed, and grass.

"Based on these findings, we can certainly say that if you are considering getting rid of the animal because you want to have children and are worried about their allergies, there is no reason to do that," Platts-Mills said. However, the doctor is not suggesting that parents get a pet if the family does not already have one. His study was conducted in Sweden, where dust mite allergies are less common than in the U.S. Since pets produce more dust, having dogs and cats can potentially aggravate dust mite allergies in people vulnerable to them. Platt-Mills said, "because of this and other studies, we now believe that while pet dander is a potent allergen in some children, it may also produce a tolerance in others. Having a pet goes both ways."

One theory suggests that high pet allergen exposure may lead to changes in the immune system so that it is less likely to produce an allergic response.

Researchers at the Medical College of Georgia in Augusta also found that having pets may actually decrease children's risk of developing allergies. Dennis R. Ownby, chief of Allergy and Immunology at the College, followed 474 babies from birth to age 7 to find that children exposed to two or more indoor pets were less than half as likely to develop common allergies -- not only to pet secretions, but also to ragweed, dust mites and grass. Ownby also shares the belief of many modern medical researchers that so many kids have allergies and asthma is due to overly clean environments.

When kids play with cats and dogs, explained Ownby, the licks they receive transfer enough Gram-negative bacteria to change the way the child's immune system responds. On a related note, some studies from Germany and Switzerland indicate that children of farmers, who are regularly exposed to animals, have less allergies than children in urban areas.

Note: Parents who smoke wipe out the anti-allergy benefits their infants receive from early pet exposure, according to Medical College of Georgia researchers.

For details on these studies, see:
http://my.webmd.com/content/article/75/89692.htm
and
http://theparentsite.com/parenting/petsallergies.asp

* Pet dander is present in nearly all homes in the United States -- including those without any animals. This was the key finding of a research study published in the July 2004 Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology. Dogs and cats lived in only half of the residences examined in the study, conducted by the National Institute of Environment Health Sciences Institute. Results suggest that people who are sensitive to cat and/or dog allergens are highly likely to be exposed to detectable levels of those allergens in their environment regardless of where they live.

The researchers used data from the National Survey of Lead and Allergens in Housing, in which surveyors collected vacuumed dust samples from beds, bedroom and living room floors and living room sofas in 831 housing units in 75 randomly selected locations around the United States.

Dog and cat allergens were detected in 100 percent and 99.9 percent of homes, respectively, even though only 49.1 percent of the homes actually had such a pet.

Interestingly, the researchers found that dog and cat allergen levels were higher among households belonging to demographic groups in which dog or cat ownership was more prevalent, regardless of whether or not the household had a pet. Because dog and cat allergens can be transported on clothing and shoes, the researchers speculated that the community, particularly where dog or cat ownership is high, may be a primary source of these pet allergens. For pet-allergic patients in such communities, allergen avoidance may be difficult.

The vacuum samples revealed that sofas had the highest concentrations of allergens, even in homes without pets, again suggesting that residents and/or visitors brought the allergen material in on their clothing.

Researchers noted that cat dander is a very hardy antigen that stays in the environment for years after a cat is gone. People with severe allergies can reduce their risk by using high-efficiency filters and avoiding plush furniture and carpet.

Other research has shown dog and cat allergens to be prevalent in places like bus seats, park benches, theater seats and waiting rooms in hospitals and allergists' offices. Therefore, "it may be that people who are very allergic to dogs and cats may have to rely on medications as opposed to avoiding exposure," said scientist Samuel Arbes, who worked with Darryl Zeldin on the study.

For details, see:
http://www.niehs.nih.gov/oc/news/dogcata.htm
and
http://yalenewhavenhealth.org/healthnews/healthday/040708HD519996.htm

Before Getting a Pet

Pets are not disposable. They are living beings who form attachments to their people and depend on their people to take care of them.

Tragically, too many people with allergic family members get pets without thinking through the difficulties of living with them. It is sad for everyone to give up a pet, and so many animals lose their lives just for this reason.

So before adding a pet to the family, please carefully think through the decision, discuss thoroughly with all household members, consider who can and will follow through on pet care responsibilities, really understand the measures you all must take to manage pets in a home with an allergy sufferer, and be realistic about the commitment you can reasonably make. If you aren't sure you will be able to keep the dog or cat or other pet for life, there are other ways to enjoy animal companionship ... from volunteering with an animal shelter to petsitting for friends.

If there's a chance that anyone in the home has or may develop allergies, take these steps:

* Take your children (or any other family member prone to allergies) to a board-certified allergy specialist for a comprehensive evaluation. If you have a pet, try to find a specialist who understands your commitment to your animal and who also has experience with this situation. In addition to discussing your concerns and options with the specialist, also read articles to broaden your understanding of allergies and how to cope with -- and reduce episodes of -- allergic symptoms.

* Discuss treatment options, which may include daily preventive/maintenance medications and "rescue" medications to use at the first sign of an allergy or asthma attack.

* Decide if your family can and will follow the recommended regimen, so that if you do decide to bring a pet into your family, you can keep the animal for his or her lifetime.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

What is Separation Anxiety?

2009-12-28T09:09:00.000-06:00

What is Separation Anxiety?

Simply put, separation anxiety is a syndrome involving the display of panic symptoms in response to being left alone. Destructive behavior during owner's absence can signal boredom, need for more exercise, need for stimulation when gone, or deep anxieties.

Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit distress in the form of behavior problems when left alone. Typically, they'll have a dramatic anxiety response within a short time after their owners leave them. Common distress symptoms include one or more of the following: scratching and digging near doors and windows in an attempt to escape and find their people ... chewing door frames or other items in an attempt to channel their anxiety ... barking, whining and howling in an attempt to summon their person ... excessive salivation ... chewing on or licking themselves ... and sometimes even urination and defecation due to the immense physiological effect of prolonged stress.

Any or all of these symptoms indicate separation anxiety syndrome if they occur when the dog is left alone. Other signs sometimes associated separation anxiety include: the dog reacts frantically when his person arrives home; acts sad or frantic or starts drooling and panting when the person gets ready to leave the house; and/or follows his person and acts clingy much of the time the person is home.

True clinical separation anxiety is not very common. However, many dogs do suffer from anxiety symptoms when they are separated from the people they perceive as their pack.

What Causes Separation Anxiety?

Separation anxiety can develop in dogs who have previously not spent much time alone ... who have been abandoned at key points in their psychological development ... who were not properly integrated into their first home and got relegated to a basement, garage or yard ... who were removed from mother and littermates too early (prior to 8 weeks of age) or too late (after 14 weeks) ... who have endured a traumatic event, such as a frightening experience at a shelter or kennel, or a significant change in their household, such as a new person joining the family, a move to another house, or change in the owner's work schedule. Some dogs tend to become extremely attached to their new person, and then insecure when that person leaves, as a result of losing a previous home and person to which he was attached.

Separation anxiety also often plagues dogs in what behaviorist Larry Lachman terms a "triangled" situation -- dogs used as an emotional replacement or sponge for someone else in the family. The excessive attention and touching common to such relationships can result in overdependency, which can lead to a dog's inability to cope with the departure and/or absence of his special person.

Even when not in such a dysfunctional relationship, dogs can develop anxiety responses due to their people lavishing too much attention (constant petting and rubbing, constant chatter, too much laptime, etc.) when they're home - thus creating a super-needy dog who can't occupy herself or even stand to be alone.

It's not clear why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety while others exposed to similar experiences do not. Some experts believe that in some cases there may be a genetic predisposition. However, it is known that there are ways for owner/guardians to help ward off development of separation anxiety - and to help their dogs if symptoms are already evident. Experts also agree that separation anxiety is a panic reaction, and definitely not an attempt by the dog to "spite" their people.

Punishment Does Not Work - Do Not Punish the Dog

Punishment, yelling and ostracizing will not work to cure separation anxiety. Punishment will only aggravate the situation by raising the dog's overall anxiety and compounding it with fear of his owner. Remember that separation anxiety is a panic response, not behavior that the dog willfully engages in. Also remember that if you are stressed out, that will only add to your dog's anxiety. Stay calm and unemotional when dealing with bouts of separation anxiety.

Preventing Separation Anxiety from Developing

Dogs evolved as companions to people, and they are pack animals. However, owner/guardians need to help their dogs find a healthy balance between enjoying companionship and becoming sufficiently independent to tolerate being alone for periods of time.

People must condition their dogs to stay calm when left alone. To condition means to get the dog used to specific things, situations and events. That's why it's important to practice leaving and returning to the dog frequently, starting when you first bring the dog into your home and family.

* Teach your dog from the start that your leaving the house is an ordinary, regular event. Help your dog build tolerance for your departures and absences.

When you first bring your dog home, take him in the yard first and then into the house. Inside the house, show him around. Particularly with a male dog, watch and be prepared to say "No!" or "Nah-ah-ahh!" at the first sign of the dog getting ready to lift his leg to mark something. Then offer the dog a treat for being good. Next, take him outside to go again and take him to the same potty spot. This helps him start learning the concept of "going outside".

Have the dog's bed and bowl of water ready in a safe, well-lighted, comfortable confined area with "family smells", such as a gated-off kitchen, family room or crate placed in a family area. (Do not confine in basements, garages, storage rooms, or other non-family areas). This nice "den" will be the place in which she will stay when you are not home to supervise. Take her to that place, tell her lie down (guide her if she has not yet learned that command). Then give her one or two safe chew toys and praise her. You can couple a food treat with the verbal praise. In fact, it's helpful to keep a small bag of tiny tidbit treats on you at all times during the acclimation and training phases.

Next, close the door or gate to the room or crate, and step back. See if she is staying calm. If so, resist the urge to talk to the dog, since that will distract her from this desired, calm, relaxed behavior.

Leave the room for 5 seconds. Return. Gradually, increase the duration of your absence by very small increments.

If she stays reasonably calm when separated from you for a minute or two, let her stay there as long as she seems comfortable. As soon as you notice any signs of the dog growing anxious or uncomfortable, take her outside again for a walk or a short play session.

If the dog is good in her confined area, this is a very good sign. You can begin to add calm, quiet verbal praise and an occasional food treat to this acclimation routine as a reward for being good and calm in her confined area. When you release your dog from the room or crate, do so in a low-key manner; it's best to give no response at all when the dog comes out of the crate for the first minute or so. This is part of establishing the confined place as a secure den, vs. a jail from which she desires to escape.

By the way, another good idea is to rotate the safe chew toys that you give your dog each day. Also, include interactive toys in the mix, such as Kongs and Buster Cubes. (Details about using the hollow Kong toys appear later in this article.)

Next, leave the room for increasingly longer periods.

Realize that this important acclimation training will take some time and patience; you will need to repeat these activities for a few days in the effort to anxiety-proof your dog.

Next step: leave the house and come back in right away. Progressively lengthen these outings until you can know that your dog displays no anxiety about your departures - which means she realizes that when you leave her, you always eventually return.

Note: it is important, particularly during this acclimation phase, to make sure you do not leave your dog alone any longer than she can reasonably, comfortably wait to urinate. If you leave the dog alone so long that she feels discomfort about "holding it", or gets hungry, or gets scared, you are teaching her that she does have reason to worry when you leave. You, of course, want her to learn the opposite: that she can trust you, her leader, will always return in time to properly take care of her needs. Consistency is critical.

Gradually lengthen your absences to 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and longer. Hopefully, she will not get anxious since you have been conditioning her to accept your absences as a normal part of life.
She will learn to be confident that you will return, and also, she will learn that it is you, as pack leader, who decides what happens and when.

It's good to stay in range the first few days of this acclimation exercise so that you can tell if and when your dog shows signs of anxiety.

If at any point your dog begins showing anxiety about your departure, go back to a shorter absence and continue working to build her confidence. And at any time, now or after the acclimation phase, you come home and find that your dog experienced anxious behavior (through evidence of scratching, digging, chewing, barking, pools of drool, etc.) halve the time you leave the dog alone for awhile and work to increase the time increments slowly. If your dog continues displaying anxiety symptoms, cut the time in half again.

This acclimation process is worth the time it takes, because starting out right will set the pace for your dog, accustom her to her "home-alone" environment, and help ward off potential adjustment problems. Because of the time that these acclimation exercises involve, it's usually best for working folks to arrange for some vacation time when getting a new dog, or to bring the dog home on a Friday just before your weekend begins.

Attention is good, but you also need to educate your dog so that she's ready for your real-world routine. The common failure to help dogs adjust leads to unrealistic expectations - and often, anxiety when you suddenly leave on that first workday after getting the dog.

In general, it is always best to set the ground rules upfront - and stick to them fairly and consistently. You can loosen up later if you wish, but tightening up is really hard after your dog is inadvertently conditioned to get out of control.

* About crating: Your goal is to condition the dog to be relaxed and comfortable in a specific room or crate where he will remain while you are away. However, crating regularly for over 6 or so hours can be counterproductive and ineffective (even if the dog can hold his urine that long). Also, while you can use crates for time-outs, never banish dogs to crate as punishment. You want the crate to always have positive associations.

Moreover, a crate should not be used for separation-anxious dogs unless the dog is FIRST gradually and successfully accustomed to spending time in the crate and then gradually, successfully accustomed to being alone in the crate - relaxed, not nervous or frantic. Many separation-anxious dogs cannot be crated when alone because it fuels their anxiety even more - and results in a substantial setback in the effort to condition the dog to accept your absences.

If using a crate for your new pup or newly adopted dog, practice using the crate when you're home. Make the crate homey; place it in a pleasant family area with light and nice views.
Some dogs like to see outside and for other, such visibility leads to over-excitement, so find out what works for your dog.

To acclimate the dog to the crate from the start, show him that "all good things happen in the crate." Entice the dog into the crate and immediately provide a toy that contains something edible, such as a Kong stuffed with kibble adhered with some peanut butter, or a Buster Cube filled with kibble. One smart tip is to feed the dog a meal via the Kong or cube. Go sit down with a book or watch TV nearby. Let your dog out when he is calm and quiet. Resist the urge to let a dog out of a crate when barking or displaying other anxiety symptoms, because that rewards the unwanted behavior you're trying to avoid or eliminate.

When acclimating your dog to a crate, give lots of positives for entering and staying calming in the crate. You don't even have to close the door each time, although you will want to practice getting the dog accustomed to the crate door being closed and latched.

Give no response when the dog comes out of the crate for the first minute or so. Many people mistakenly give dogs a rousing, ebullient response when exiting the crate, but that tends to reinforce the idea that being out is infinitely better than being in. While the dog probably realizes this, you don't need to amplify the message. When crate training, you want the dog to think "this is my special place, and I like it here."

Note: if your dog already has serious separation anxiety, don't use a crate; follow the tips in other sections of this guide.

* Give your dog adequate exercise and playtime everyday. Dogs are social beings, so this activity is important not only to channel their physical energy, but also to engage their minds and meet their need for human companionship. Don't wait until your dog begs for attention. As leader, it is your job to initiate and lead the dog in play. As for walks, most dogs need two brisk leash-walks of at least 15 or 20 minutes each. Some dogs need more.

* Avoid lavishing too much attention on your dog. Same goes for the wrong type of attention, such as overindulging with constant touching ... always having her in your lap, draped over you or leaning next to you ... placing the dog in elevated positions where humans customarily are (in the front seat of car, at the table, on the couch, in the human's bed) ... coddling (and thus rewarding) when she displays fearful or aggressive behavior. Other missteps to avoid: overly excited greetings when you arrive home from work ... petting the dog every time she demands it, such as by rubbing up against you or pushing her head against your hand ... letting your dog initiate play instead of the other way around.

By creating a demand-lavish attention dynamic, you would inadvertently teach your dog to be far too dependent on you, increasing the chances the dog will suffer overwhelming anxiety when you're gone. There is a difference between unhealthy overdependence and healthy trust. You want to be the leader, you want the dog to trust, respect and listen to you, but you don't want the dog to become an emotional slave who can't bear to be alone.

* Teach your dog to earn attention and praise by obliging your requests to sit, lie down or come when you tell him to.

* Reward your dog for resting quietly in her place. Reward calm behavior with quiet attention and treats. This will help her associate her place, den or bed with serenity and security. Attention is often a highly motivational reward for good behavior.

* Keep to a routine, at least until the dog fully adjusts to your home. Canines thrive on a routine, which also helps them learn that you come and go, you always return, and that he can count on getting attention, food and exercise each day -- avoiding and alleviating his anxiety.

* Keep departures and returns low-key. Don't make a big show of leaving. Gather your items quietly, efficiently and matter-of-factly and quietly leave. Be aware that dogs are very sensitive to their owners' actions and activities. This includes an owner's "leaving routine": most dogs quickly pick up that when their person gets his shoes, coat, briefcase and keys and begins fiddling with lights, it means the person is departing for an extended period. And do not act anxious; anxiety is contagious.

You can desensitize your dog to your departures with this following exercise. Note: this differs somewhat from the acclimation process described above, and can be used in conjunction with that more elaborate routine. Get ready to leave. Go to the door, but don't exit. Quietly move about, go back to the door, leave. Come back in. Ignore the dog during this exercise. Exit and enter several times, increasing the length of your absences from one minute to one hour.

* Remember, it's unfair and unreasonable to expect a dog to hold his or her urine for much longer than 8 hours. Young dogs might be physically able "hold it" only 2 to 4 hours.

Managing Separation Anxiety: How to Help Your Dog

For most cases of separation anxiety, the following techniques will help. For severe problems, these techniques should be used along with a behavior modification program structured by a canine behaviorist (see links and resources near the end of this Tipsheet).

Foster self-assurance and a degree of independence:

Instill confidence and independence. Dogs need to find a balance between respecting their pack leader, enjoying companionship and handling solitude. "Don't let the dog follow you around the house," advises Los Angeles trainer Cinimon Clark. "He needs to learn to survive by himself." Teach and then frequently use the Down-Stay command. For instance, when you're washing dishes and the dog hovers next to you, instruct him to "down" on his blanket and "stay" there the entire time. Then release him and have some play time together.

Insecure dogs tend to follow their people around the house, look anxious as the people prepare to leave, and become distraught when they are alone. They bark after their people leave, sometimes destroy things, and may even urinate or defecate out of anxiety.

Often, it's tempting to give an anxious, insecure dog too much attention, but over-empathizing usually aggravates behavior problems. Insecure dogs need to be retrained to be independent, writes Dr. Nicholas Dodman in "The Dog Who Loved Too Much." It takes firm yet supportive leadership and clear direction to help your dog overcome this behavioral problem.

Build tolerance to staying alone:

* Retrain your dog to accept absences as an ordinary event, using the acclimation exercises in the "Preventing Separation Anxiety" section. For a dog who already displays separation anxiety, be prepared for using absences of shorter duration and working up to longer periods more slowly. Progressing too fast will lead to setbacks. The idea is to advance slowly enough to avoid the dog lapsing into anxious freak-outs.

* After a few days of the leaving/return practice sessions, increase the duration of absences randomly so the dog can't guess when you will return.

* Practice "fire drills": go out, return, sit, play a game, go out. Vary the time you are gone.

* Reduce the contrast technique: canine behaviorist/author Larry Lachman explains that most separation-anxious dogs cannot tolerate the either-or conditions of attention when the owner is home vs. no attention when the owner leaves. So reduce the contrast: pick two days out of week when you are home. Ignore the dog for 6 to 8 hours on those days, to match the time you are away at work. Limit attention to only feeding or letting the dog out to potty during these sessions. Your dog will learn: "it's no big deal when my owner is gone; even when he's home, he still sometimes ignores me."

Take all excitement, fuss and drama out of departures and returns:

* Keep arrivals and departures low-key. No emotive goodbyes or effusive hello-I-missed-you's. In fact, it can be best to say nothing and avoid eye contact, totally ignoring your dog for 15 or 20 minutes before you leave the house and after you arrive home. After that, provided the dog is reasonably calm, then you can let her out of her safety room and calmly, quietly pet and praise her. For a dog who still displays significant anxiety, it's usually recommended to continue ignoring the dog until she totally settles down and begins to relax.

Uncoupling cues - easy technique to desensitize departures:

Dogs are extremely adept at reading body language. So chances are, your dog can easily tell the difference between your going outside to bring in the mail and your departure for work. Your dog will notice cues such as you pre-departure preparations -- getting your coat and bag, taking out keys, turning off lights. Separation-anxious dogs will respond by exhibiting anxiety signals such as whining, pacing, drooling, yelping and/or yipping.

One way to reduce your dog's anxiety about being separated from you is to "uncouple the cues" -- engage in your pre-departure routines without always leaving the house. Put on your coat and rattle your keys at times other than when you are actually going out. Keep grabbing your coat and keys and putting them back down again until your dog doesn't bother getting excited anymore. Now you can start rewarding the dog for NOT responding to the stimulus; this is a form of shaping behavior.

If there is something else that triggers your dog's anxiety over your leaving, such as putting on shoes by a door or switching lights on or off, throw these into the mix as well. This exercise will help desensitize your dog to the anxiety-starters that signal your imminent departure.

Establish a "safety cue":

A safety cue is a word, gesture, action or even a special toy that you teach the dog to associate with the idea that when you leave, you will always come back. Use the safety cue each time you leave the house, starting by cueing it to brief absences (such as taking out the trash or checking the mail box). Your safety cue might be gently saying "Take care of the house" ... a playing radio or tape ... or a distinctive chewtoy.

Start out using the safety cue during practice sessions. However, to establish the cue as an effective tool, do not use it when you're leaving for longer durations than your dog has learned to tolerate.

Timing attention:

As previously mentioned, some of our own behaviors as dog guardians can contribute to a dog's intolerance of being alone or ignored - such as constantly petting or fussing over the dog when we are home. If this sounds like your situation, try changing your behavior: always have your dog sit before giving attention and then only give 10 seconds of petting at a time. If he wants more, wait until he is not actively seeking it, have him sit again, and give him another 10 seconds of petting.

Keep these additional tips in mind:

* Ignore attention-seeking behaviors. Do not respond when the dog demands attention. This helps teach your dog that he can't manipulate you to get attention.

* Yes, you can give your dog attention, but for the needy or separation-anxious dog, it's best if you initiate the attention, and as much as possible, tie attention to desired behaviors.

* Instead of the dog initiating contact with you, strive daily to change the dynamic: you initiate the contact, be it playing, petting, deciding when to eat and take walks. The owner, as pack leader, should control the activities. If the owner controls activities in a manner that protects and meets the needs of the dog, the dog's trust in his person will increase and his insecurities will fade.

"If he comes up to you for a pet, ignore him for about 3 minutes, or until he stops asking you, then ask him to come over and sit," suggests Cin Clark. "Now you can pet him. I use the command �Enough' for stopping the petting. If he still tries to get your attention, walk away."

* Ration attention out in small bits to ease your dog's dependence on you and other family members. Limit attention to times when the dog is engaged in a desirable behavior, such as resting calmly in her own spot (vs. draped over your lap), and when the dog responds to a verbal command or hand signal. Have him earn attention by telling him to "Sit" and "Down-Stay." When you give a separation-anxious dog attention, dole it out in very brief increments. One second can be enough.

* Avoid letting the separation-anxious dog sit in your lap, drape herself over you, or rest in elevated, "human" places like the sofa. And don't let the dog sleep on the bed with you. He can be in the same room, just on his own bed. If she insists upon sneaking back into your bed, you can tie a long leash to a dresser. The idea is to foster some independence, so take these steps at least until your dog has overcome her separation anxiety problems.

Use training to build the dog's self-confidence:

* Teach Sit, Down and Stay. This can aid the effort to teach your dog how to relax in one spot when you leave. Reward your dog with positive reinforcement - praise, or praise plus treats - for staying calmly in a position for increasingly longer periods of time. Don't punish your dog for "not obeying." Just ignore incorrect responses, regain the dog's attention and continue.

Gradually increase the distance you move away from your dog so that you can eventually move briefly out of your dog's sight while he remains in the "stay" position. The idea is to teach him that he can remain calmly, in a non-anxious state, in one place while you go to another. Take easy opportunities to practice. For instance, when you're watching TV with your dog nearby and you get up for a snack, tell your dog "stay." When you return, give him a tidbit and very gently praise him for obeying.

When practicing these leaving/returning sessions, increase the duration of your absence randomly to prevent your dog from learning to guess when you will return.

You are working to retrain your dog to listen to you and to be less clingy, aiding your effort to accustom your dog to being alone without getting frantic. Depending on your individual dog and the consistency of your training efforts, you should be able to move briefly out of your dog's sight after a few days.

This exercise is an example of counter-conditioning - teaching a new behavior (such as Sit) that is counter to the previously ingrained behavior (such as trailing you). Then the new behavior substitutes for the old one when the dog is responding to a stimulus or event (such as your departure). As with most aspects of training dogs (or people), it is usually more effective to redirect the dog to a desirable/acceptable behavior than to get him to just "stop" engaging in an undesired behavior. By substituting something acceptable for something unwanted, you give him an outlet for his physical and mental energy.

* Obedience training, practiced daily, helps a dog develop confidence by giving her a sense of accomplishment. However, realize that obedience training alone will not lessen separation anxiety. It is part of an overall therapeutic program.

* Sign up for a positive reinforcement-oriented obedience class. An advantage of group classes is that you can sometimes have another handler work with your dog in the class, thus helping lessen the dog's distrust of other people and situations.

Create a safe haven:

* For the dog's home-alone place, choose a safe, puppy-proofed room with light and family smells -- ideally, it should be a place in which the pack regularly convenes, such as a kitchen or family room. If there's no door, block the entrance with a sturdy baby-gate or fencing. See the "Preventing Separation Anxiety" for other details.

* Doggie-proof the dog's room. Latch cabinets, keep plants out of reach, close bathroom doors or at least keep toilet lids closed. Keep this den-like area safe. Make sure the windows are closed, too; anxious dogs have been known to push through partially closed windows and tear through screens.

* Bypass the crate for separation-anxious, because this usually useful tool can increase feelings of panic. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl or even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.

* Prevent access to items that you don't want your dog to chew, since chewing is a natural impulse to dogs, and the nervous canine usually feels an increased need to chew. Remove shoes, collectibles, tablecloths, baskets and other items.

* Make off-limits objects undesirable if you can't move them. Hairspray is often an effective repellent. First, coat a cotton swab with the hairspray and let your dog approach it. The swab will taste bad when he licks it. Then, liberally apply the hairspray to couch cushions, wood molding and any places the dog chewed before. The spray's smell and taste will repel the dog.

* Muffle noises, such as neighboring barking dogs or passersby, as best as you can.

Provide physical and mental stimulation:

* Give your dog a fun job to occupy your pet when you leave for work. Hiding small treats around the house to create a food scavenger hunt. First, teach your dog a "find the treat" command. Once he learns the meaning of the command, hide treats in clear view for the first few sessions. Then place the treats in less visible places to challenge and occupy your dog. You can set up a scavenger hunt each morning before you leave for work to provide an engaging distraction for your dog - and help him learn to accept (and even possibly ignore) your departures.

* Make sure dog has safe, stimulating activities when you leave him alone. These include access to safe chew toys, including hollow Kong-type toys that can be stuffed with food for long-lasting enjoyment. You can stuff Kongs with peanut butter, low-fat yogurt or cream cheese, pieces of rice cake, mashed potato or sweet potato, rice, steamed chopped veggies such as carrots, and of course, moist dog food, kibble or a combination thereof. You can even feed the dog's meal via the Kong or Buster Cube. In any case, this will keep the dog occupied for a long time.

You can reserve such interactive toys for use only during your workday absences to help the dog make positive associations with departures. Another clever, long-lasting treat: "chicken-cicles". Pour chicken broth into a plastic food container and freeze, then put the frozen treat in the dog's den 15 minutes before you leave for work.

Enrich the dog's environment:

* Interactive toys are great choices.

* Play music. A CD player gives you more control over what your dog hears than a radio. But you do want something that can play continuously. Choose classical music or easy listening, since the idea is to help calm your dog. News radio can sometimes work, but not if the station broadcasts talk shows with debates or loud, anxious, excited hosts and guests.

Note: Playing music, radio or tapes work only if the dog has learned to consistently associate the sounds with being alone in a non-anxious state. So practice playing the sounds when you are home.

* Tape-record normal household sounds and let the tape play for comfort. Put on a continuous-play tape recording of your voice calmly reading a magazine. Occasionally play the tape when you are home so dog does not associate tape only with your departure.

* These audio tools can also serve to buffer other sounds, which can be helpful for dogs living in apartments, condos and other attached housing.

* A playing TV can provide auditory and visual stimulation. Again, take care to choose a channel with content that will not rile or upset your dog.

* If your answering machine broadcasts incoming messages, phone home during the day and talk awhile to your dog. Note: while this works with some dogs, it can backfire with others.

* Leave a T-shirt you slept in or other soft clothing item bears your smell. However, don't use old shoes, since you don't want to encourage dogs to chew other shoes that are often accessible.

* Some dogs respond well to pheromone-based products such as Comfort Zone DAP, a plug-in item which releases a nontoxic synthetic version of calming pheromones produced by lactating female dogs.

Keep to a routine:

* Especially when training your dog and when trying to help reduce separation anxiety symptoms, stick to a routine. That way, your dog can eventually learn, and come to trust, that you will always come home ... and that he can count on you (or another trusted person) to feed, walk and play with him regularly so he doesn't have to worry about being starved for these necessities.

Also, it is best to not leave a clinically separation-anxious dog for more than a couple of hours at a time until you start seeing results from a structured behavior modification program. Yes, this is not easy. But the idea is to try to reduce and eliminate freak out periods; that way, the deeply ingrained symptoms will start to fade sooner. Arrange to have trusted people around for the first two or three weeks of your dog's separation anxiety-reduction program, and practice gradually increasing the time the dog is left alone.

* Some folks use a timer connected with a light or radio as a signal that they are coming home soon. Set the timer to go off about 30 minutes before you get home.

Don't let your dog train you:

* Remember that dogs tend to do what works ... or what seemed to work in their past. If your dog howls, scratches and throws herself at the door when you depart, and then you turn around, reenter your house and console the dog, you will have reinforced the idea to your dog the idea that howling, scratching and throwing herself against the door works. These anxious behaviors already are self-rewarding to your dog in that they provide an outlet (albeit it a temporary and ineffective one) for the dog's intense anxiety. You don't want to add any more "reward" to these dysfunctional behaviors.

Before You Leave Your Dog Alone Each Day - Steps to Take

* Feed and then vigorously exercise your dog before leaving for work. A tired dog is more likely to remain calm. Have the dog heel by your side and sit every minute or so; this helps channel pent-up tension. Vary your dog-walking route to provide extra mental stimulation for the dog -- and you - at no cost to your schedule.

Remember, most dogs need two brisk walks of at least 15 or 20 minutes. Some dogs need more. Make sure you make time in your schedule EVERY day.

* Fifteen minutes before you leave, confine the dog in her special home-alone place.

* Just before leaving, give your dog a good, safe long-lasting and preferably interactive toy, such as a Kong (details elsewhere in this article) filled with kibble and peanut butter, cottage cheese or yogurt. This will help counter-condition the dog to see departures as good. A food-stuffed or food-smeared toy can occupy him for up to a couple of hours, and even distract him enough that he won't notice you're leaving.

* Provide the dog with super-good, long-lasting treats such as sterilized bones or treat-filled Kongs. Put on a continuous-play tape recording of your voice or music.

* Try setting up the food scavenger hunt mentioned earlier to occupy your dog.

* Remember: keep all departures and returns low-key. No emotional goodbyes and greetings.

Extra Tips for Anxiety Barkers

* Do not give your dog any attention, not even eye contact, for any type of vocalization.

* Block visual access to things that trigger your dog's barking.

* Catch him in the act of barking. Say OFF! and use a startle technique (such as a loud clap or other unpleasant, interruptive noise). After the dog has stopped barking, quietly say "Good quiet," then allow for another minute of silence before rewarding the dog with a combination of verbal praise and food tidbit, light petting or other incentive. Stay calm, low key and quiet yourself.

* Randomly reward your dog when he is not vocalizing in any way. This "catching him in the act of being good" requires attentiveness on your part. Pass near him, toss a treat and say "Good quiet." The dog learns that he gets rewarded for quiet behavior and gets startled for noisy behavior. These discipline techniques are not meant to be used frequently, or as the only technique to quiet a barking or anxious dog, but they are helpful in combination with other recommended steps.

* Set up a tape recorder or video recorder to track the times your dog tends to bark. Or if you have a helpful, reliable neighbor, ask that person to listen and let you know when your dog tends to have barking spells. There is usually a pattern.

Diet

* A diet switch can help, such as from a high-protein, high-energy food to a low-protein all-natural diet without any artificial preservatives.

* Feed twice per day to keep the dog from getting hungry and to avoid any mood swings that can result from low blood sugar.

* Trying feeding the biggest meal before the separation-anxious dog is about to spend a lengthy period of time alone. After eating, dogs often get sleepy. However, it is essential that you give a good, long, brisk walk before you leave him alone so that he can eliminate after the meal.

Alternative Health Aids

* Holistic options include valerian root and kava-kava, as well as a number of fear flower essences by Bach.

* Rescue Remedy and other gentle, natural ingredient-based remedies are available at most health food stores and over the internet. Many people find that these safe, affordable choices help calm their dogs.

* Some veterinarians have successfully used the homeopathic remedy Pulsatilla. It doesn't cure the problem, but seems to reduce the symptoms of frantic barking and destructiveness.

* For more serious cases, some have had success using Melatonin.

Other Helpful Measures

* Find an at home neighbor or petwalker to visit your dog
* Come home for lunch
* Take your dog to work
* Petsitter
* Doggie day care
* Day boarding for dogs who don't play well with others
* Neutering: it won't solve the problem, but can reduce anxiety overall since the dog will no longer be subject to raging hormones
* Note: getting another pet usually does not help the separation-anxious dog, since the anxiety stems from fear of separation from his person and pack leader, not merely from being alone.

Behavior Modification

* For an effective, personalized program, contact a certified canine behaviorist.

* Desensitization Program For Separation Anxiety
http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/separtn.htm

* Follow the "Make Your Dog Work for a Living" or "No Free Lunch" programs described in books and on internet webpages.

* A Reverse-Psychology technique. This "umbilical cord" tactic helps with dogs of some breeds and temperaments who tend to desire a little space of their own. Put the dog on a 4 to 6-foot leash, then attach the leash to yourself. Keep the dog tethered to you for lengthy periods as you go about the house doing your chores, reading, etc. Usually the dog will like being so close to his person and relax. But over time, the novelty will wear off and the dog will likely want some more space. Don't untether him until he seems good and bored with the umbilical arrangement. Practice this for a week or so, and most likely, the dog will be very glad to be given his own space ... and have some time apart from his person.

Professional Help

* Consult a canine behaviorist, who can develop and teach you how to apply an effective behavior modification program for your individual dog. Separation anxiety treatment typically requires desensitization and counter-conditioning programs. Some are explained well in books, but are best guided by a trainer. It often takes 10 or more weeks of consistent practice of a behavior modification program to see results.

Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists
http://www.animalbehavior.org/Applied/CAAB_directory.html

http://animalbehaviorcounselors.org Animal Behavior Counselors

* Consult a good veterinarian, one with extensive experience with behavioral issues. A veterinarian will be able to check for any underlying medical disorder contributing to a dog's anxiety. Such conditions could include low thyroid levels, improperly functioning adrenal glands or tumors, even injuries.

For dogs with severe clinical separation anxiety, a veterinarian may recommend 8 to 20 weeks of medication to supplement behavior modification techniques. An appropriate anti-anxiety drug should not sedate your dog, but simply reduce his anxiety while you are gone, and it should be seen not as a cure, but as a temporary measure to improve initial response to your behavior modification sessions. Be aware that there is no magic bullet to alleviate anxiety symptoms. Clomicalm is sometimes prescribed, but some canine specialists report better results with Elavil (amitriptyline, an antiobsessional & antidepressant like Prozac).

Veterinary Behaviorists -- American College of Veterinary Behaviorists http://www.dacvb.org

* For holistic solutions, consult a holistic veterinary specialist.

American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association http://www.ahvma.org

* READ as much as you can. Understanding leads to solutions. See the list referenced near the end of this Tipsheet for great books about canine behavior problems and solutions.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Stopping Dogs From Eating Poop (Coprophagia)

2009-12-27T08:12:00.000-06:00

Dog Tip: Stopping Dogs From Eating Poop (Coprophagia)

Does your dog have a dirty little secret?

A number of readers have contacted us about dogs who munch their own or other animals' feces. Here is background on the condition known as coprophagia, and what you can do to discourage doggie-do-eaters from this somewhat common, natural behavior that strikes humans as a disgusting gustatory pastime.

Background and principles:

* Coprophagia is a condition that compels dogs to consume feces.

* Why does the dog engage in this habit? A dog may ingest fecal matter for various reasons:

He may be hungry and has no access to real food.

You may be feeding a food lacking in sufficient nutrients and/or not appropriate for your particular dog.

When a dog is fed low-quality and/or inappropriate dog food, he feels compelled to eat more of it in an attempt to satisfy his body's craving for nutrients. As a result, the dog is ingesting excess food, and a large proportion of the food goes through his digestive system undigested. The resulting stools smell and look fairly close to the food that the dog previously consumed, so the dog tries to consume the 'food' again. This is not just a vulgar habit; it is a cry for health. The dog needs a better diet that will enable him to absorb the nutrients his body needs.

When dogs consume feces from other animals, they may be seeking minerals lacking in their regular dog food.

The dog may be consuming feces out of boredom, loneliness, anxiety or stress.

A dog who is confined to a kennel, chained, or restricted to a small yard or other space may eat his feces to occupy himself or clean his personal space. This dog needs to be exercised and played with several times a day.

Some breeds instinctively like to carry things in their mouths. Picking up feces and carrying it around may signal that the dog needs more daily exercise, mental stimulation and interaction with his people.

A yard or kennel where stools are allowed to pile up may prompt a dog to 'clean up' his stools. Be sure to clean the dog's area every day, and preferably right after the dog eliminates.

The emotional stress of being left alone or restricted to a small area for long periods of time without the companionship of the caregiver can result, for some dogs, in the eating of his own feces.

Internal parasites may lead a dog to consume feces, because the parasites can leach nutrients from the host animal's system. Thus, the dog will feel unusually hungry.

If a dog is punished for defecating in the house, she may eat her feces in order to hide the evidence and avoid punishment. Typically, when a dog defecates indoors, it is because she feels unable to hold it. It is a myth that dogs poop indoors for spite; spite is a human, not a canine, emotion. More responsive management and training by the owner is the solution, not punishment. Also realize that elimination in the house can be a sign of a health or medical problem, from parasites to a serious condition.

* Sometimes a mother dog will eat the feces of her pups out of a natural instinct to hide evidence of her offspring from predators.

* It is common for many puppies to taste and try to eat feces. Some researchers even suggest that some components of feces actually can stimulate the brain and immune function in young animals. However, that possible benefit is far outweighed by the health risks of ingesting excrement. Prevention is the wisest practice. Don't let the pups indulge, and they won't develop a taste for excrement ... and won't develop this habit.

* Prevention is better than treatment in mature dogs as well, since coprophagia is usually self-rewarding, meaning that the act of ingesting the feces is satisfying to the dog so he is likely to repeat the undesired behavior.

Solutions:

* Change the dog's diet. Buy or prepare only nutritious, quality food that is formulated for the dog's age, breed and any medical issues.

* For the dog who may be hungry, try feeding him a little more, and make sure you feed a quality, nutritious food that is appropriate for the age and type of canine.

* Take the dog to your veterinarian for an examination for underlying medical and health problems, parasites and other problems that may be compelling him to eat feces.

* Clean up after your pet, right after he goes - before he has a chance to eat his poop. Stopping access is one key to stopping this habit.

* Walk the dog on leash so that you are in a better position to tell the dog 'leave it' and to physically keep the dog from trying to sniff and eat stools. Always praise your dog for listening. You can also reinforce the verbal praise with tidbits carried in a pouch.

* As soon as the dog starts approaching excrement, tell her 'nah-ah-ahhh' or 'leave it!', and distract her with praise supported with a treat, clicker click, playtime or other action or activity that is appealing to the dog. This will convey the idea that it is more rewarding to attend to you than to attend to poop. As soon as she turns her attention to her, praise her ('Good dog!') and reward her. A wise practice is to always carry appealing tidbit treats, a favorite toy, clicker - something you can always use to effectively gain your dog's attention and reinforce desired behaviors. Once you get her attention, give her something positive to do. For example, tell her to 'Sit', reward her for listening, then proceed to an enjoyable activity such as playing or walking together. Distract her from undesired things like feces, and substitute a good, desired behavior such as sitting and attending to you. A dog who is interacting with her owner can't be investigating poop at the same time.

* If the dog is defecating in the house, the dog needs to be fed and walked on a schedule that allows her to eliminate before the owner leaves her alone for the day and before bedtime. The dog also may need housetraining help. Teach the dog instead of punishing her; this is the sensible and effective approach. Also, visit the vet to see if a medical condition is the underlying cause of the dog eliminating indoors.

* If a pup or dog is pooping in his crate, make sure he gets more exercise and has the chance to eliminate before placing him in his crate. Also, read about crate training. Dogs naturally do not like to poop or urinate in their living quarters, so a dog who potties in the crate needs you to help crate-train him properly ... and perhaps a trip to the vet to rule out medical problems that may underlie an inability to 'hold it' for a few hours. However, also realize that pups can't physically hold their elimination for more than one to three hours, and that it is not healthy or kind to crate adult dogs for more than 5 to 6 hours a day. Take the time to properly train your dog so that he can be left alone in the house, in a pet-safe area instead of confined in a crate.

* There are products that you can apply to the stools that will discourage your dog from consuming them. Some are available from pet supply stores and others from veterinarians. These include Forbid.

* Some alternatives to drugs that work for some:

Add two to four tablespoons of canned pumpkin to the food bowl each day. Pumpkin apparently tastes good in food, but repugnant when expelled in excrement.

Add a spoon (teaspoon or tablespoon depending on the dog's size) of canned pineapple, pineapple juice or spinach to the dog's food.

Add some meat tenderizer or MSG to the dog's food.

Coat stools, following elimination, with hot sauce or lemon juice. Or booby trap sample stools by penetrating some left in the yard with hot sauce.

* Block the dog's access to any kitty litter boxes to keep him from developing a taste for kitty tootsie rolls ... or to help break a habit that has already formed. Keep the litter box in a room that the cat, but not the dog, can access. Or place a lid over the box that only the cat can access. Or place a baby gate around the box that has openings too small for the dog.

* Coprophagia can be a hard habit to break since it is self-reinforcing, but do not be discouraged. Follow these tips and give them a chance to work.

* In summary, the steps to stopping poop-eating are: feed a complete, nutrient-packed and balanced diet; provide lots of exercise, playtime and interaction; keep living spaces, crates, kennels and yard clean; avoid confining the dog for long periods of time; and take him to your veterinarian for a health checkup.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Pets as Gifts?

2009-12-26T08:20:00.001-06:00

* Pets as Gifts - Important Considerations
* Pet Adjustment and Holiday Time
* Links to More Information
* A Special Gift Idea
* Poem

Pets as Gifts?

Movies and TV have given people the idea that puppies and kittens make heartwarming holiday gifts for kids, spouses and other significant others. But the reality is more often heart-wrenching for most of these living, breathing "gifts", not to mention the families who end up giving up the pets once they grow and require more time, attention, training and expenses than the families can or choose to give.

When you hear of people who plan to give a pet as a gift, please take the opportunity to educate them. Animals cannot speak for themselves, but you can be their voice - and convey the message that pets aren't disposable; they need love and commitment their whole life.

Pets should never be an impulse purchase. Individuals and families thinking of getting a pet should research, prepare and then, when the time is right, seek a pet who realistically complements their lifestyle, schedule and energy level. Many people do not have the time, energy or money to care for a dog over the long term. A new owner may enjoy the animal for a few weeks, but then resent the gift once the novelty wears off, and the cute puppy starts growing into an active, needy, larger dog.

Also, discourage parents from giving pups and kittens to their children as gifts. While children can help with some age-appropriate responsibilities, pets require adult caretakers. Remember, even bright youngsters typically don't have the strength, attention span, self-discipline and physical strength to care for a dog...or even a cat. Older children typically wind up redirecting their attention to friends, school, social activities and eventually dating and planning for college. Unlike with other holiday presents, owners cannot just pop in a fresh battery or put the pet away in the closet after the novelty wears off. In nearly all cases, one of the parents becomes the primary caretaker, doing the feeding, walks, litter scooping and all of the other chores the children once promised to do themselves.

Furthermore, "pets as playthings" is the wrong message to send to children. Pets are living beings who require substantial time and daily care, plus expenses for food, obedience training, vet bills and occasional petsitters or kennels. Children get bored with gifts, and it's heartbreaking when families grow tired of the growing dog. Studies show that too often the gift puppy is given up within the first year, starved for training, socialization and affection. Regardless of what parents tell children and neighbors, the reality is that too many wonderful dogs go unadopted at shelters.

Pups between the ages of 7 to 14 months often wind up at shelters or at the vet for euthanasia, because the owners did not train them, resulting in "behavior problems." Even worse, some owners dump unwanted pets on the road or in the woods, where they cannot survive on their own, since dogs and cats are domesticated animals that depend on humans for care.

According to the Humane Society of the United States, most puppies and kittens born in the United States never reach their second birthdays. They die from being hit by cars, euthanized by owners, starving or being injured in fights with other animals, or taken to shelters or pounds, usually before age two.

As noted by the Pet Action League, the months following the holidays will be very busy for rescue organizations. Many of last year's holiday puppies and kittens are now up for adoption. It is tragic how many poor animals wind up abandoned.

The Dalmatian Club of America adds: "During this time of year, many people capitalize on the flow of emotions and spur of the moment decisions.... This is when the pet stores are full of popular breeds straight from their suppliers -- puppy mills. And, it is not just the pet stores. You need only look in the classified ads to see the flood of people trying to turn the family pet into the Christmas Money Maker."

Keep in mind that reputable breeders don't allow puppies to go home during the holidays because of the delicate state of the animals and the difficulty for new owners to help a new animal acclimate in a holiday setting full of distractions and stress (not to mention puppy choking hazards). To a reputable breeder, safe, responsible environments for their pups is far more important than money.

Because owning a dog is a huge emotional, financial, and time commitment, any person taking on this responsibility must be fully prepared. Puppies need to be housetrained, watched and confined when they cannot be watched to prevent typical puppy chewing and pottying behavior that leads to destruction, accidents and even injuries. Before bringing a pet home, the prospective owners need to have pet care supplies, a crate, a safe and sufficiently large place to exercise the pet, a chosen veterinarian ready.

The decision to bring a dog into your family should be a family decision, not a surprise gift. Everyone, including the children, should educate themselves on different breeds of dogs and decide what breed or mixed breed would fit best into their lifestyle. An adult in the household will be responsible for this pet, not the children. The adult must be willing to accept this responsibility and be willing to care for this pet for the next 15 or so years, which may well be long after the children lose interest or leave the nest.

Instead of buying that cute little puppy or kitten as a gift, give books on pet selection, training, care, health and diet, and individual breeds. Videos and subscriptions to pet magazines and newsletters are also good choices. The AKC (American Kennel Club) also advises pet owners to personally discuss the responsibilities of pet care with prospective owners.

These presents are wonderful ways to introduce the joys of pet ownership and will help the family or individual decide on the right dog to bring home. It's a decision that everyone in the household should make together - when they decide they are truly ready for a new lifetime companion and family member. This will benefit everyone - the gift giver, the family and the deserving animal.

Gift-givers can also help with buying pet care supplies, or offer help with the adoption fee after the holiday season.

Later in this tipsheet, you'll find a listing of webpages featuring excellent books for adults and children...free guides to help people plan for and choose a pet...and more detailed information ideal for educating folks.

Pet Adjustment and Holiday Time

Why are holidays usually a bad time to introduce an animal to a new home?

* The new owners will probably be too occupied with holiday preparations, celebrations, cooking, cleaning and guests and overall activity to give the new pet the attention he or she desperately needs. It is already a jolting adjustment for a puppy to leave his mother and littermates.

The first few days in a new home and with a new family are critical to a puppy. His transition into new home and family will affect his ability to bond with and trust humans. A stressful introduction can have negative after-effects and impede safe, successful integration into the family.

* Busy holiday time is a really hard time to keep to a proper housetraining, feeding and elimination schedule...and it is vital to start housetraining on day one and establish an effective schedule on which the pup can learn to rely on his human caretakers.

* The activities in the household might present safety hazards and increased opportunities for the pup to get in trouble or hurt. Especially when the household is not used to having a pet around and underfoot, it can be hard to keep ornaments, decorations, tinsel, wrapping, string, scissors, candles, potentially poisonous holiday plants and other dangerous items out of animals' reach.

* The holiday hubbub of guests, flashing lights, noisy toys, gift unwrapping, camera snapping, romping children, etc. can scare an animal of any age, particularly a puppy. Guests and household members may even step on pets, which can be traumatic even if no bones are sprained or broken.

* Elderly guests may trip over the pet and get hurt.

* It is essential to always supervise when dogs and children are together. Since this is hard to do during a big holiday, the chances of a bite increase. Children not used to having a dog in the home are more prone to behavior that can frighten a dog or pup, provoking a defensive bite. That's a bad start for kids and the pup alike.

* Visitors entering and leaving the house mean lots of chances for a pet to escape. A new pet can be more prone to running faster and farther since he has not yet bonded with the family, and he is stressed out by his jarring transition to a new, busy place full of large unfamiliar beings.

* The abundance of holiday food, drink and candy will enchant pets, who may get sick from ingesting food or choke on wrappers.

* Giving a pet to a child as a holiday gift is not good for the child or the animal, cautions Dan Lapsley, an educational psychologist at Ball State University. He adds that it is a mistake to use a pet as a way to teach a child responsibility. Even adolescents aren't ready to handle such a commitment of time, money and energy alone, so getting and caring for a pet should be a family venture. Parents need to learn proper animal care first. After all, the best way to teach responsibility is for the parent to demonstrate responsibility.

* Yet another reason to avoid introducing pets on a holiday: young children are often used to being the center of attention, and may be confused, jealous and act out to redirect adults' attention away from the new pet and back to themselves. Lapsley likens the experience to bringing a new child into the family; the parents need to discuss the introduction of the new pet before getting a pet...explain how things are going to change at home...and emphasize that the whole family must work together to make the pet a welcome (and well-adjusted) member of the family.

This is why so many shelters, animal welfare groups and breeders will not place an animal during gift-giving holidays. At some shelters, an estimated 50 percent of holiday adoptees eventually end up back at the shelter.

To improve the chances of a successful adoption, introduce pets during a relaxed, quiet time when you can devote full attention to helping the pet adjust.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Holiday Stress Reducers

2009-12-25T08:23:00.000-06:00

Introduction:

Are you having visitors for the holidays? Or will you be visiting other folks and bringing your dog? Following are ways to reduce anxiety for people and pets alike. You'll also find links to helpful articles online that detail how to cope with stressful situations as well as prevent calamities. Many of the safety tips also can be applied to safeguard children.

Greeting Guests:

Does your dog greet visitors in a calm and friendly manner? If not, don't wait for guests to arrive -- start teaching and practicing good behaviors now.

For example, if your dog is overly friendly and jumps on visitors, take this advice. First, teach your dog the basic commands of Sit and Stay. Practice in a variety of locations. Then for the guest-greeting training, enlist a friend to help. As handler, you tell the dog to Sit. The other person approaches the dog. The moment the dog stands up, turn and walk him away from the other person. Then put him into a Sit again. Repeat. Praise and treat him when he remains calm at the person's approach. Keep practicing. As part of the reward, the friend can gently pet him...as long as he remains calm. If he lifts his rear or otherwise shows excitement, stop the attention and praise, and have the other person walk away. The dog will learn to associate calm behavior with the reward of getting attention from the visitor (and praise from you), which is typically what he craves. You can also have the visitor give the dog small treats for exhibiting calm behavior. Have a treat jar ready by the door.

For more ways to help dogs cope with visitors, along with tips for managing unsociable dogs, see the tipsheet listed below.

Stress-Busting Strategies for People and Pets:

* When having visitors or when there is any change or disruption in your household (wedding planning, new baby, holiday preparation, new person or pet moving into the home), pets can get very anxious, and even frightened. Reduce stress levels for everyone by keeping feeding and exercise on a regular schedule. Keep in mind that too much excitement or disruption may cause stomach upset or trigger or aggravate illness.

* Exercise your dog before you have guests over. Exercise will reduce stress for you and your dog...plus, a tired dog will likely be less rambunctious when visitors arrive.

* Rescue Remedy, a Bach flower essence available in most health food stores, is a natural stress reliever that many folks keep on hand at home and in travel kits. It can often help both people and animals recover from injury, fright, illness, travel fatigue, chocolate ingestion and irritation. Put a few drops in the dog�s water bowl or portable water container. For stressed or injured animals, rub a drop on their ear or put a drop on the towel in their crate or carrier. Flower essences are free of harmful effects and can be used along with conventional medicines. Another safe, nontoxic Rescue Remedy-like product is Animal Emergency Trauma Solution, available from www.greenhopeessences.com, where you can also get Flee Free to combat fleas nontoxically. Other flower essence sources include anaflora.com and perelandra-ltd.com.

* Set aside a safe, quiet room in which the dog can escape holiday activity and guests.

* During holiday activity, changes in the household and travel, dogs may need more water since they pant more when they feel stressed. So always keep fresh water available for them to drink.

* Anticipate guest arrivals. Consider confining your dog to prevent escape out the open door. Make sure visitors know not to let pets escape out the door. Don't leave anything to chance - monitor all doorways closely, and make sure pets are wearing a well-fitted collar and current I.D. in case they dart out a door when visitors come and go. Make sure the I.D. includes your current phone number and mobile phone number if you have one.

* The tether station approach to teaching your dog to sit and be calm around guests: Set up tether stations in approximately 3 places in your home. Instruct your guests to say sit and then treat.

* Approaching new people with your dog. First, observe new people from a distance, instead of letting people approach too quickly. Hold your dog on leash beside you. Dont force introductions.

* Meeting a new dog ... or introducing a dog and guest ... using good body language: When introducing yourself to a new dog, take a sideways stance instead of looking at the dog head-on. Canines perceive the sideways stance as less threatening in general. Avoid direct eye contact until the dog displays signals that he is comfortable. Look at the floor nearby, or in another direction. Pretend to be uninterested in the dog. The sum total of this body language serves as a 'calming signal' to the dog. (Excellent insight can be found in the book 'Calming Signals' by Turid Rugaas.)

The dog will realize through this body language that you are not planning to threaten, lunge at, grab at or chase him. A nervous person makes dogs feel nervous. A calm person is likely to make the dog feel secure.

Other calming signals include: approaching the dog by walking in an arc, which is typically the way friendly dogs greet each other; sitting or squatting (again, sideways is best); licking or smacking your lips; yawning; and pretending to sniff or examine something innocuous. By showing the dog that you are directing your attention elsewhere, you help set him at ease and signal that you mean no harm. Thus, the dog has no reason to feel defensive.

* Advise visitors, as well as all household members, of the house rules for canines and to abide by them. Otherwise, the dog may end up spoiled, sick or in the emergency room. For example, no table scraps or playing fetch with holiday ornaments. And no rough-housing or other activities that will fire up the dog. If you're trying to keep your dog from jumping on guests and furniture, explain this clearly to guests to enlist their cooperation.

* Tell guests and remind household members to keep medication, toiletries and other potentially harmful items out of the dog's reach - and NOT to feed the dog any unauthorized foods. Remember, fatty foods can make a pet extremely ill.

* Have healthy pet treats handy so that your guests can indulge your pet safely. And if you want to share holiday flavor with the family dog, add a bit of white turkey meat or defatted broth to her bowl.

* Now's the time to teach your dog to "go to your place" or "go to your spot." You can designate a place, say, in the far corner of the kitchen or family room, and place a mat or dog bed there. First, teach your dog to associate that place with a special word, such as "place," "spot" or "bed." Then, using positive reinforcement, incorporating praise and small treats as rewards, teach him to "go to your place." This gives the dog something good he can do instead of distracting you from cooking or pestering guests. It also gives him a safe spot away from the crowd - just be sure to inform visitors that the designated space is the dog's own special place. The dog can observe the activities from this vantage point without getting in the way.

* If the dog is fearful or wary of guests, protective of his turf, ill or stressed, it is best to situate his "place" in an area off-limits to guests. You may want to keep him in a quiet bedroom with the door shut or in a crate in a quiet room while you have visitors.

* Keep the garage closed off to pets. Otherwise, pets may lick up antifreeze, gas and other toxic substances, or step on debris.

* It's best not to have unfamiliar pets visit during the holidays or other busy times due to the added stress for people and pets...and the reduced ability of preoccupied people to supervise pets. However, if your visitors are bringing pets...or you are bringing your dog home for the holidays...introduce resident and guest pets on neutral ground. Have treats available to reward positive behaviors and interactions; use verbal praise as well. Be prepared to remove your animal if there is any chance of a fight. Don't leave newly introduced animals together indoors or in a yard unless actively supervised by at least one very experienced, adult dog owner.

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com

Dog Scared of Steps?

2009-12-24T08:03:00.001-06:00

Do you know a dog who is afraid of steps and stairways?

Perhaps past experiences led to the dog to associate steps with something unpleasant, frightening and/or hurtful. Perhaps the dog was yelled at for going up or down a stairway, or had fallen down stairs during his formative weeks, or was pushed down steps. Or the dog recalls that steps once led to a place in which he was frightened, yelled at, or physically abused. Or the dog just never encountered steps before.

Some people respond to such fears by forcing the dog up and down the steps. But this approach often doesn't provide the dog with an opportunity to overcome his fear. (In addition, a fearful dog may try to nip or bite as a means of expressing "I'm terrified of steps!"

Instead, many canine behavior specialists recommend to help the dog work through her step-phobia through use of positive reinforcement (including verbal praise, treats and other positive, nonpunishing motivators) and counter-conditioning.

Before attempting any of the exercises suggested in this Dog Tipsheet, visit your vet to rule out the possibility that the step-shy dog does not have an injury or medical condition that is making it painful to walk up and down steps.

Preventing the development of fear of steps:

Take the time to properly socialize your puppy. Make sure that by age 16 weeks, the pup is exposed to the various things, people and situations (such as stairways) he will eventually encounter along the course of life. Do your best to keep all experiences during these impressionable weeks safe, secure and happy.

If you've adopted a more mature dog, remember that socialization continues throughout the dog's lifetime. Practice the same exercises as for puppy socialization. (See other Robin's Dog Tipsheets on socialization, accessible via the links listed at the end.)

Training your dog to climb and descend steps without fear:

When introducing your pup or dog to steps, work to gradually build her confidence. Start with just approaching the stairway. Reward her for making baby steps - any show of progress, no matter how small. Slowly introduce treats and, of course, verbal reinforcement into the training scenarios. Besides food treats, positive reinforcement tools include playing with your dog and providing a favorite toy for quick romp sessions.

You can use tasty treats or a favorite toy as a lure, placing one on the "target" step as you work with your dog.

After the dog shows signs of comfort with approaching the steps, practice going up one step. Then turn and go back down the step. Practice this several times, praising the dog for any sign of progress and any sign of reduced anxiety.

Note: some trainers suggest advancing on the steps beside the dog. Others suggest staying just behind the dog, since a shy and/or fearful canine will usually find this less intimidating than having someone towering over him.

Next, ascend and descend two steps. Again, praise and reinforce for any progress. Repeat until the dog is willingly managing the steps. Add a few more steps at a time.

When you're ready to climb to the top of a stairway, make sure you have several particularly high-value, appealing treats on hand. You want to give your dog the idea that contrary to being scary, or leading to a scary place, steps lead to good feelings and things...such as tasty treats.

Take care not to rush the process, or else you will risk a setback.

Be patient. You might aim to devote 2 or 3 days to working on each "step" (approaching the stairway, touching the first step, climbing the first step, climbing a couple more steps, etc.).

When the dog is comfortable heading in one direction (such as down the steps), reverse direction...again taking things slowly. Note: many dogs are more scared of going down steps, so their people often start working with them on going up steps.

When the dog is comfortable going up and down that flight of stairs, practice the same exercise on a different stairway. Remember, dogs do not generalize well on their own.

Another approach, which can be blended with the previous counter-conditioning strategy: instead of feeding your dog in the kitchen or wherever you usually feed him, put the dog's food bowl at the top or bottom of the stairway in your home, whichever is closest to the dog's regular feeding area.

When the dog exhibits comfort with eating in this new area, move the food bowl to the first step. As soon as the dog seems relaxed and accepting and willing to eat at this step-side spot, move the food bowl to the next step. Keep going, gradually, so that the dog will learn that the steps are not a scary place after all.

Here's another technique. While we do not advocate forcing a dog up or down steps, some dogs will respond to a combination of firm physical encouragement and happy talk, which conveys to him that you, the leader, are not at all afraid of the steps and to trust you. Before attempting this exercise, teach your dog to move forward in response to the command "heel" or "let's go" in a nonthreatening situation, such as when out on walks. For the stairway exercise, place the dog in a harness, so that you are not pulling on his neck. Firmly grasp the harness at the point between the dog's shoulders. Then, use the command "heel" or "let's go" and descend the steps with your hand on the harness, firmly navigating the dog down the steps by your side. Move steadily forward, without pauses, so that your dog doesn't have a chance to contemplate his anxiety.

As you descend together, praise your dog verbally (GOOD DOG!), then provide a treat at the bottom of the stairs. Work to keep your dog's eyes focused on you, and not on the steps or the space beyond you. A key goal is to help your dog learn to trust you, and to help him realize that you're not going to let him get hurt. Repeat several times. If the dog continues exhibiting fear, follow the first technique described above.

After the dog becomes comfortable going down the steps, reverse direction.

Even after your dog appears to lose his or her anxiety about steps, make the effort to provide continued opportunities to ascend and descend stairways to reinforce the new association that "stairs are OK and even lead to good things."

These exercises can be adapted to entering and exiting cars and other motor vehicles.

Another smart, novel technique:

Liz Dietz shares this smart technique that helped her foster dog, Bubba. Having always lived in a single-story house, Bubba didn't know how to navigate stairs. When Liz first took him to her home, instead of descending her back deck steps to do his business, he jumped off the top step. "When it came time to get back into the house, I couldn't get him to go up the stairs," said Liz.

Liz came up with a great idea. To disguise the steps, she draped a blanket over all of the steps of the staircase. "With a little encouragement, Bubba stepped on the blanket rather gingerly but made his way right up," recalls Liz. This visual trick worked.

She needed to use the blanket only three or four times before he was willing to climb the stairs without it. Stepping down the stairs came more gradually, but he learned.

Liz's back deck steps presented what some dogs would perceive as an additional challenge: the stairs were built without vertical panels, so you can see through the staircase. "This might have scared or confused Bubba, but with the blanket there, he couldn't detect any puzzling patterns."

Dogs typically have trouble generalizing between different situations, so it's not surprising that Bubba had trouble transferring his newly acquired step knowledge to the indoor stairs, which did have vertical panels. The indoor staircase was also taller, included a turn at a landing, and led to a narrow hallway, which might seem somewhat intimidating to a dog inexperienced with stairways.

Bubba's step story has a nice surprise ending. After leaving his foster caregiver's house to go to his permanent home, Bubba figured out the indoor staircase. He navigated the stairs all by himself, apparently determined to be with his owner. As Liz says, "Not a bad leap of learning for an eight-year-old dog!"

At Urban Out Sitters we continue to raise the bar above all our competitors to offer the best care for your dog. Each facility is clean, safe and certified by the Department of Agriculture offering stricter sanitary requirements; enforcing better screening for each dog; and selling a higher performance of daycare or kenneling. Our fully staffed facility is a smaller environment, specifically designed to maintain control, supervision and quality.

For more information about the services we provide visit our website at www.urbanoutsitters.com